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Mark Squires' E-Zine on Wine
Tasting Notes
April, 1999

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arrleft.gif 2.1 K Tasting Notes Contents Page

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arrowblu.gif (140 bytes)QPR Winner I started using this tag recently for certain wines that demonstrate an excellent quality to price ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $15), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner,  not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy.  QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively  reasonable price.

Australia (white)        Australia (Red)     Bordeaux     Burgundy (red)     California /USA (white)

California/USA (red)     Dessert/Sparkling    Germany         
Italy       Rhones/South/SW France

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yellball.gif 0.1 KAustralia (except dessert/sparkling)

NB: Most of the March/April Australia notes were made at wineries and restaurants in Australia, unless otherwise noted. Prices quoted are in Australian dollars--about  a 35% discount from US--unless otherwise noted.  Check the March page for lots of   notes, too.  The Articles Section for this month presents my generalized observations.   I have necessarily quoted in AUD.  Although many of these wines or comparable ones can usually be found--with some effort at times--the pricing for the boutique wines is incomprehensible.  For example, the JSM Cabernets from Fox Creek was $20 AUD at cellar door, approximately $13 or so US.  In the US, it sells for about $25 US.  It's worth the price, but suddenly it's not such a steal.   The Fox Creek Reserve Shiraz runs around $50 US in the USA.  At Fox Creek, it was about $30 AUD--or about $20 US.  Yet, I've also seen it for around $40 US here.  So.....I can't guess pricing I haven't seen, and that may vary widely with small allocation wines.    If you are interested in some of these wines and cannot readily find them in the USA--some are easy to find, some nearly impossible--you might try http://
www.auswine.com.au/

RED

1996 Hunter Valley Shiraz (Rothbury)
Run of the mill shiraz with good balance and decent flavor, but not much else.   The velvet could be better, and it is a bit light.  It is around $18 AUD, which in Australia at least makes it reasonably priced at current exchange rates.  87 points.

1997 Cabernet/Merlot "Mary Kathleen" (Coriole)
The folks at Coriole in McLaren Vale (down the road from Chapel Hill, d'Arenberg and others) have some clear ideas, and make great wine. This is one of Australia's old boutiques, dating back to 1919 in one fashion or another. Their goal is elegance, and they have recently cut back on oak, especially American oak,  in furtherance of it. This wine is 80% cab, 20% merlot.  The flavors are intense, there is big berry fruit, and a lot of exuberance.  The wine is a bit disjointed, a little too crisp. It needs a couple of years of cellaring to come into balance.  I can't say the cab flavors seem all that typical, but they taste good. How the acidity integrates will tell the story of the wine.  88-90 points.

1996 Diva (Coriole)
Coriole is one of the few wineries I saw in Australia experimenting with sangiovese. This is a Super-Tuscan clone, mostly sangiovese, with 14% cab and 7% merlot.   I thought it was super.  It is round and lush and intensely flavored (for sangiovese).  It has enough structure to be also called focused and a bit tight, a likely candidate to improve with some more age.  Nicely done.  89 points.

1997 Sangiovese (Coriole)
The pure sangiovese is less successful.  What it particularly lacks is the lush texture of the Diva.   It is fruity, if a bit weedy, and it has some structure, needing a year to come around and come into balance.  I don't find it anywhere near as interesting or as pleasurable.  It is more an exercise in sangiovese. 85 points.

1997 Shiraz (Coriole)
This angular shiraz is all briars and pepper, tight and tingly.  The blackberry notes are welcome, and balance the other aspects of the wine with some fruit flavor.  There is nominal oak, and the wine is unusually elegant and balanced for shiraz. I do think that there is a touch too much acidity, but another year of age should dim that.  89 points.

1996 Shiraz "Lloyd Reserve" (Coriole)
This wine is heavily oaked, and it is likely a style that Coriole is going to abandon, especially if the oak is American. The good news is that the texture is lusher and less angular, in large part due to the oak.  It is harder, though, to find any varietal flavors, and the flavor of the wine is marked more by oak flavors than any fruit.   This seems a bit more concentrated than the regular shiraz, but oak levels were a bit too high and the balance was not as good. That's not to say it wasn't fun to drink; there are just pros and cons.   89 points.

1997 Shiraz "Lloyd Reserve" (Coriole)
Just bottled, this wine is a major change in direction. Unless it shows radically different with age, it is a new style for the Lloyd Reserve (named after the proprietors).   It exudes charm and delivers sweet fruit.  It is gentle and soft, fragrant and open. The new oak is markedly less prominent.  While it is delightful to drink, I have to wonder about its depth.  Will it put on some weight when it calms down from bottle shock? If it does, it will be the best wine in the Coriole lineup that I reviewed in Australia (although I like their Lalla Rookh Grenache best of all in general).   Jury's out.  87-90 points.

1996 Shiraz "Brokenback" (Rothbury)
This pricey Shiraz pushes $40 AUD, and I can't see why.  It is disjointed and a bit too tart. It does have a beautiful nose and nice blackberry fruit. It has the ability to age and improve, and in fact, if it does not, it will be a total failure, since it cannot possibly justify the price tag otherwise.  How it develops with another year or two in the cellar will be the key.  87-89 points.

1998 Grenache (Peter Lehmann)
Fragrant, and attractive for easy sippin', this wine is too thin  to hold your attention long.  It tastes OK, but there just isn't much fruit and no depth to speak of.  Needs about six months of cellaring to calm down.  About $12 AUD.   83 points.

1996 Seven Surveys  (Peter Lehmann) QPR Winner
This is a grenache/shiraz/mourvedre blend. At $15 AUD, it is a super value, at least in Australia. Velvety and round, soft and charming, the wine lacks some depth, intensity and ageworthiness, but is otherwise firing on all burners. Apart from the beautiful texture, the fruit is sweet and open.  Great value, would be rated higher if it looked like an ager.  87 points.

1996 Merlot  (Peter Lehmann)
For some reason, a Rhone Clone, above, is a cheap wine. A routine merlot goes for $22 AUD. The price of Merlot, I guess.  Too thin and a bit flavorless, this Merlot goes for more structure and fails. The tannins are there to support some aging, but the flavor isn't, and the fruit seems so-so.  Decent texture, average wine. 85 points.

1996 Shiraz  (Peter Lehmann)
Thin and mediocre, this $17 AUD shiraz just doesn't deliver.  There is a bouquet of pepper and spice that is very pleasing, but after that the wine goes nowhere.   The body is too light and inoffensive, and there is no depth of fruit.  83 points.

1997 Cabernet  (Peter Lehmann)
Oddly, the finish ain't bad.  But it is hollow in the mid-palate, thin, mild and lacking much varietal typicity.  81 points.

1993 Shiraz "Stonewall"  (Peter Lehmann)
At $50 AUD, this is a super premium wine that seemed to fall a little short to me of superb.  It is beautifully fragrant, and drinking well.  The nose is redolent of black cherry fruit.  The finish is persistent, but marked with some American oak flavors.  The depth is just good, not exceptional, although this is now six years old, and has rounded into form. Very nice, but just comes up a bit short.  I felt like I got somewhat better wine from places like Fox Creek and Greenock Creek, to name a couple of boutiques, for a lot less.  89 points.

1994  Cabernet/Malbec "Mentor" (Peter Lehmann)
One of Peter Lehmann's premium wines, this runs around $35 AUD.  It is a little too heavily marked by American oak, but the wine has good weight, a velvety texture, and plenty of fruit flavor.  It is drinking beautifully now, but can still hold.  88 points.

1997 Pinot Noir Padthaway (Lindemans) QPR Winner
This silky, inexpensive pinot is a great value at $12 AUD. Now, it may not always have a lot of varietal typicity, and it may lack intensity, but the smooth, silky texture is appealing and elegant. One of the best cheap pinots I've had of late. A short termer; drink now.  87 points.

1995 Shiraz Bin 9003 (Lindemans) QPR Winner
Friendly shiraz, suffused with strawberry fruit and finishing with American oak notes.  Round and appealing, easy drinking, and very pleasing for the price level.   86 points.

1996 Shiraz "Steven Vineyard" Bin 9225 (Lindemans)
Take the 1995 above.  Add power, depth, concentration of fruit and some structure.  This is closer to a complete shiraz, with some welcome complexity and a nice finish.  The oak is subtle.  A very nice wine; if it improves in a year of cellaring, it could merit a higher rating. 89-91 points.

1996 Shiraz "Rosehill" (Mt. Pleasant)
Run of the mill Shiraz, that I don't think will develop as well as the Philip, below, did.  It has a nice hit of flavor on the finish, in its favor, some American oak notes and moderate fruit.   The oak is sweet, but the wine is a bit sharp. Needs a bit of cellaring, but I don't think it will come into full balance. 84-86 points.

1994 Shiraz "Philip" (Mt. Pleasant)
Soft and fruity, this wide open $15 AUD shiraz is charming and has benefited from some age.  The lush velvety texture is surprising considering the price range, but the failing at this point is depth. Expansive, but near the point where you really want to drink up.  86 points.

1997 Malbec Reserve (Peppertree)
This is pretty pricey, about $25 AUD.  It seems simple and pleasant, and drinking well now. It has an elegant style and a nice nose, but could use a bit more depth.  Good flavor.  For pure charm, it scores, but after drinking it, I thought it was a bit short on finish.  87 points.

1997 Merlot (Peppertree)
Running around $20 US, this Merlot blends Coonawarra and Hunter Valley fruit.   It shows elegance and new oak, and not a lot else.  Lacks depth, finish. Unexceptional.  86 points.

1997 Terrain Cabernet (Seppelt)  QPR Winner
I thought that both this "Terrain" cab and the Terrain Shiraz below were amazing values.  They both run around $10 AUD.   They are Seppelt's low priced, entry level wines. They are short on depth and will not age well. They are   a bit light. But as for the rest--better values are hard to find. This cab is velvety and soft, charming and gentle, with superb flavors that do not fade.  An unbelievable value that loses points only for aging ability.  87 points.

1996 Terrain Shiraz (Seppelt) QPR Winner
I don't have more to say than what I said for the Terrain cab above.   Elegant and well balanced, this was soft and pretty, too.  Another great value.  87 points.

1995 Harpers Range Cabernet/Merlot (Seppelt)
Although Seppelt is based in Barossa, this is a Victorian cab, which generally means cooler climate. It has a nice bouquet, and is a bit denser than the Terrain cab, but frankly no more appealing or interesting.  It is also a good value at $16.50, and can age a bit better.  Drinking beautifully now.  Another fine value from Seppelt.   88 points.

1993 Great Western Shiraz (Seppelt)
Surprisingly tight, and a bit odd, this seemed a touch tart, too. On the whole, it lacked charm, the texture was unappealing, and the flavors muted by the prominent acidity.  Unimpressive.  82 points.

1997 Grenache "Cornerstone" (Greenock Creek) QPR Winner
Produced from 60 year old vines, this well priced $20 AUD Grenache is another example of how well the Aussies are doing with this grape. Of course, Greenock Creek can take some credit for that; it is one of Australia's hottest boutique wineries.  There is a tannic bite on the finish that provides welcome structure and calls for some cellaring.  Velvety and focused, it is loaded with fruit and flavor, and will open more in one to three years.  90-92 points.

1996 Cabernet  (Greenock Creek)
I found this $25 AUD cab more interesting than wonderful, but it was still plenty good.  It is tight and tannic--Greenock Creek seems more attuned to structure than most--and needs a couple of years of cellaring badly.  The varietal flavors are not intense, but the wine should open and develop with time. This may fool me and develop better than I think.  89+ points.

1996 Cabernet (Chapel Hill)
This was a beautiful cab that I deemed a short termer; it seemed to lack depth and concentration.  But the texture was pure velvet, and if you didn't mind that it acted more like an easy going merlot than an intense cab, it was pretty nice.  Around $23 AUD.  89 points.

1996 Shiraz (Chapel Hill)
Nice wine with plenty of stuffing and structure.  Around $26 AUD.  This wine has it all.  The texture is lush, but the tannins for backbone are there. It has good flavor, too, and good balance.  There is a certain elegance to the wine, and you can just feel that in about two years it will blend into a gorgeous, harmonious whole.   Very elegant, nicely done. 90 points.

1996 "Vicar" Cabernet/Shiraz (Chapel Hill)
I guess everyone needs a premium wine, which I guess is why this $35 instead of the $26 demanded for the Shiraz, above. The fruit was sweet, but the wine is brawnier.   It has decent flavors and more depth, but it is not as charming or elegant.   Admittedly, it probably has a higher upside, if it cellars well, than the Shiraz. I am not sure it will ever be more flat out enjoyable. 89-91 points.

1990 Grange (Penfold's)
Somewhere along the line, Grange changed styles, and I can't say I'm happy about it. This is "new wave" Grange. Tinged with sweet raspberry nuances, it seems almost artificially sweetened.  The wine seems friendly and charming, and is readily accessible. It lacks the depth and power of, say, the 1982 era Granges, substituting easy drinking instead. As a lot of the top end Australian winemakers are looking to make more serious, cellar worthy wines, oddly, Penfold's makes Grange more accessible and approachable young.   It is hard to dislike a wine this flavorful and friendly--the review would not sound so negative if it didn't say "Grange" on the label-- but if this is "new wave" Grange, and it is, it seems to me there are lots of wineries in Australia making wines this good. It just doesn't seem so special any more, and given the ever escalating price tag, it is a poor value wine.   Purchased/tasted in the USA.  90 points.

 

White

1997 Hunter Valley Semillon (Rothbury)  QPR Winner
At about $10 AUD, this was the first white wine I tasted at Rothbury in a lineup of whites that were as a group stunning in quality for their price ranges.  This was about the weakest of the lot. It was fragrant and crisp, and in reasonably good balance, unlike so many Hunter Valley semillons.  A bit of lemon on the finish.  On the whole, an easygoing semillon, a bit too light, but a good value. 84 points.

1997 Semillon "Brokenback" (Rothbury) QPR Winne
Now, it steps up in class. Take the characteristics above, but double them.   Appealingly fragrant, this shows some acid and lemons, but the wine is denser and seems packed with good fruit.   For about $13 AUD, a super semillon with all the elements in place, and the ability to improve with some cellaring.  88 points.

1998 Verdelho (Rothbury) QPR Winner
This varietal seemed to be gaining in popularity in Australia, and I can see why.    This was very fruity, with perhaps even a touch of sugar on the finish.  Suffused with easygoing charm, it was a summer beauty.  Sip it on the porch, and think of Sinatra singing "The Summer Wind."  About $15 AUD.   Ready to drink, not meant for aging.  88 points.

1997 Chardonnay (Rothbury) QPR Winner
This mouthfilling chardonnay is packed with fruit, finishes with rich, burnished lees flavoring, and needs only a year or so to allow the acid to integrate with the other components.  Power, depth, and cheap, too.  89 points.

1997 Chardonnay "Cowra" (Rothbury) QPR Winner
I thought about naming this the QPR wine of  the year.  It runs about $12 AUD.  It is better than the generic chard, has more stuffing, more power, and a distinctive mango finish that is a bit eccentric but very pleasing. Some may find it a bit overbearing, but all this fruit in a $12 AUD wine seems hard to believe.  I have to think that this would be a bottle California vintners would want to sell for $35.  92 points.

1997 Chardonnay "Brokenback" (Rothbury) QPR Winner
At around $21 AUD, this was the most expensive chard in the lineup, but not necessarily the best.  It does have the best balance, but there are also some American oak nuances.  It seems not quite as deep as the Cowra, but the leesy finish provides flavor and style.   Very nice, still an excellent value, at least at Australian prices.   90 points.

1994 Semillon Reserve (PepperTree)
At around $16 AUD, this was another pleasing semillon.  Good balance between the fruit and the acid.  The oak and lees smoothed out the texture and the flavors.   A nice butterscotch finish made this very appealing. Dense, big body.  89 points.

1997 Chardonnay Reserve (PepperTree)
At about $20 AUD, this chard was OK, but unexciting.  It just seemed simple. Yeah, decent weight, some lees on the finish, but everything is middle of the road.   Not bad, decent price. Needs pizazz. 87 points.

1997 Chardonnay (Greenock Creek)
Light, mediocre, middle of the road chard that displays some lees flavors and some crispness, and not distinction. About $19 AUD and the only Greenock Creek wine I tasted that left me cold.  Sells for around $15 in the US. 85 points.

1998 Chardonnay Unwooded (Chapel Hill)
Chapel Hill has a great rep as an upcoming Aussie boutique, but I can't say they bowled me over like some of the others did. Still, the wines were fine, if they didn't leave me quite as excited as some other boutique offerings did.   This is crisp and acidic. No surprise there.  There is fruit underneath, though, and the wine will integrate and show better than it is at the moment with some cellaring. Still, it is meant for early drinking ($13 AUD) and it is refreshing and pleasing now.  Loses for aging ability, gains for charm. 86 points.

1998 Verdelho (Chapel Hill)
Another Aussie try at Verdelho, and this one was unappealing.  At   around $15 AUD, it was overpriced.  It seems a bit green, and reminded me more of lime juice with a bit of game and leather. Maybe the least appealing Verdelho I tasted in Australia. 79  points.

1997 Chardonnay Reserve (Chapel Hill) QPR Winner
This is a big fruit chard that is very well priced at $21 AUD.  It is stuffed with fruit, has more than a touch of oak, and a nice leesy finish. It maintains balance and elegance, too, and the finish persists.  Nicely done. 89 points.

1993 Semillon "Elizabeth" (Mt. Pleasant)
After some aeration and six years of age,  the acidity at this age is under control, but the fruit is too thin and not terribly interesting. The wine can age more if you like this style--i.e., you are more interested in tertiary aromas than fresh fruit. I personally think that this style--necessitated by the high acidity these wines display when young--is a bit of a fraud. Most just don't have the stuffing to support long aging and retain good fruit.  85 points.

1994 Semillon "Elizabeth" (Mt. Pleasant)
Tart and thin, this lemony semillon is out of balance. It will improve with age in the sense you will at least be able to approach it. For the rest...I am not sanguine. Unlike the '93 above, this had no air. 80-83 points.

1989 Semillon "Museum Reserve Elizabeth" (Mt. Pleasant)
At age ten, the annoying acidity has largely disappeared.  This special reserve shows more stuffing, some toasty lees and some character and flavor.  It has a lovely fragrant nose.  Pleasing, but not likely to get anyone excited.  87 points.

1997 Semillon/Sauvigon Blanc (Mt. Pleasant)
Very bright and flamboyant, with tropical fruit flavors.  It is crisp and almost effervescent.  The flavors are pleasing at first, but eventually overwhelmed by the acidity levels of two aggressive grapes.  Some might like this wine a lot in the summer. 84 points.

1996 Chardonnay "Maurice O'Shea" (Mt. Pleasant)
Very nice chard (around $24 AUD) on all grounds. It spent eight months in French oak.  The oak imparts a creamy texture I rather like (and others don't...).  The finish is superb for a wine in this price range, the lees are prominent, and the flavors persistent.  This goes for The Big Wine statement, and perhaps needs a bit more fruit to pull that off completely, but it is well done in general.  89 points.

1998 Semillon Bin 9253 (Lindemans)
No depth to speak of, and not much character.  But this wine is not a failure. The crisp fruit is well balanced and seems refreshing and charming.  A nice summer wine, ready to drink.  About $16 AUD.  85 points.

1995 Semillon "Still Room" (Lindemans)
So all the semillons should be aged? Uh, no.  A couple more years of age did mute the acidity levels on this wine.  It was merely flat and thin and relatively flavorless instead.  There was just a hint of something tasty on the short finish, but it wasn't enough to merit a second thought. 80 points.

1996 Chardonnay Bin 8880 (Lindemans)
About $21 AUD. Fig nuances are surrounded by oaky notes.  The chardonnay seems a bit odd, but is creamy, tasty and appealing.  Good weight, reasonable fruit.   If you don't mind that it is a bit eccentric, you may like it a lot. Purists won't. 86 points.

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yellball.gif 0.1 KBordeaux (except dessert/sparkling)

1982 Chateau Margaux
Simply wonderful Bordeaux.  In many years, Margaux is silky and elegant, slinky and subtle.  Everything is relative.  Compared to bruisers like Las Cases and Latour in this vintage, Margaux is still elegant. Compared to exotic fruit bombs like Petrus and Cheval Blanc in this vintage, it retains a lot of finesse. But this is a Margaux that has more flesh than normal. It has a voluptuous quality Margaux doesn't always achieve. Ripe, round and velvety, the wine always seems to be working toward another layer of fruit. Some lead and leather nuances show off some hints of maturity.   For all of the velvet, the wine has lost its baby fat, and drinks smoothly and with elegance and charm.  I think this bottle seemed a bit further along than some others I had not too far back, but this one is ready.  Delicious, and exuding charm and good cheer. 94 points.

1996 Villa Bel Air  QPR Winner
This Graves is under $13, and eccentric--but absolutely delicious.  Let's put it this way: if you're into typicity and you want something that tastes like Domaine de Chevalier, or even Bordeaux, this probably ain't it.  If you're willing to settle for a wine that exudes sweet, exuberant fruit, is cheap, and at times seems more like Beaujolais (there seems to be some carbonic maceration here), go no further.   Ignoring the word "Bordeaux" gets you a wine that is a ripe, lush and easy drinking delight.   Drink now and for about three years.  The younger the better, before the fruit fades.  It's all fruit, which may not perhaps make your typical Bordeaux drinker entirely happy.  This loses points for lack of structure and eccentricity,  and scores will probably decline as the fruit fades, but don't let the score mislead you into not trying this wine, which has plenty of appeal and pleasure. 86 points.

 

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yellball.gif 0.1 KBurgundy (Red) (except dessert/sparkling)

1989 Clos Vougeot (Domaine Leroy)
I wish I could have liked this as much as its price tag implied I should have. Big, thick and dense, it seemed more monolithic and thicker than any Clos Vougeot I can recall drinking. It never seemed to fully open, although it was open for hours, and it thinned a bit.  There were cherry flavors surrounding the thick fruit, but you never quite got the impression of juicy sweetness. Very good finish. I can't say I disliked this, hardly, but it is a long way from  the most satisfying Burgundy  I have ever had.  In particular, it wasn't the orgasmic experience I demand with this kind of reputation and price tag.  It may still improve and develop, but I don't give it a huge upside. Strangely unexciting, perhaps a victim of expectations. 89-91 points.

1995 Chorey-le-Beaune (Tollot-Beaut)
Flavorful, but too light, this pinot is great for drinking young.  The focused raspberry fruit is delicious, but the body is on the lighter side, and the depth and concentration levels are a bit low, even for this appellation.  Still, flavorful enough to be called elegant rather than thin, although it pushes the limit.  Too light to hold up to bigger food courses, though.  85 points.

 

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yellball.gif 0.1 KCalifornia / USA (Red) (except dessert/sparkling)

1995 Zinfandel "Whitney" (Turley)
Coffee notes surround a full bodied zin that nonetheless seems in balance.   The persistence of the flavors is remarkable, and the fruit seems juicy and dripping with delicious dark flavors. Round and ripe.  Beautiful. After a couple of hours, it did start to show some angular characteristics, but that was not too bad, and a long while later.  93 points.

1995 Zinfandel "Duarte" (Turley)
Surprisingly elegant for a wine with so many daunting statistics, this is much lighter than the Whitney, and gives the appearance of good balance.  The knee-jerk criticism of these wines often seems more based on reading statistics than tasting. Flavorful, and charming.  90 points.

1995 Zinfandel "Moore" (Turley)
If you want an over-the-top Turley, try this. It is almost in late harvest style. The wine is caramelized and very sweet at the end. It is one step from Port. Still, it is also delicious, brawny and rustic. I honestly can't say I care for the style though, and it makes food matchups nearly  impossible.  89 points.

 

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yellball.gif 0.1 KCalifornia / USA (White) (except dessert/sparkling)

1995 Chardonnay "Kistler Vineyard" (Kistler)
This wine is maturing beautifully.  It may be a bit oaky for some, but there is a ton of well integrated fruit for balance.  The texture is buttery and creamy--no doubt the oak helps there--and the fruit seems remarkably rich. The wine exudes hazlenut and toffee flavors and aromas, and just seems bursting with fruit.  With air, big bruiser that it is, it even develops a hint of elegance. Those who prefer crisper, high acid wines won't find this to their liking.   This is drinking beautifully now, and unlike most California chards, I think this can go for some years more, and even improve for another couple. 92 points.

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yellball.gif 0.1 KDessert / Sparkling Wines

1993 "Fleur de Lys" Pinot/Chardonnay Sparkling Wine  (Seppelt) QPR Winner
Another big bargain from Seppelt. This $15 AUD sparkler is delicate and a bit light, but the flavors are focused and it is pretty and elegant.  A refreshing aperitif on a hot summer day, even if it lacks depth.  84 points.

1992 Salinger Sparkling Wine (Seppelt) QPR Winner
At $21.90 AUD, this is still a good value, when you consider that the depth and concentration of fruit is doubled over the Fleur de Lys.  The finish is superb and the wine is rich and toasty.  Delicious.  89 points.

1997 Eden Valley Botrytis Gewurztraminer (Seppelt) QPR Winner
At $13.50 per half, fairly priced. It is simply beautiful.  Round and luscious, the wine emits a fragrant bouquet that makes it almost as much fun to sniff as to drink.  Lovely.  90 points.

1998 Frontignac Late Harvest  (Peter Lehmann) QPR Winner
At about $10 AUD, this is meant to be a simple wine. But it's absolutely delicious. The muscat-like fragrance is lovely, and the wine is refreshing and exuberant, a classic summer sipper.  It reminds me of a semi-dry, German spatlese. The sweetness is applied with a light hand; it won't really function very well as a dessert wine.    Drinking beautifully. The way of the world: available only in Australia, and even there, only at the cellar door!  88 points.

1998 Noble Semillon (Peter Lehmann) QPR Winner
At about $10 a half, a good deal and a nice wine.  Medium bodied, with a youthful, sugary finish, this needs about a year to take on some weight and come together.   Then, you get a lot of bang for your buck.  88 points.

1990 Sparkling Shiraz (Lindemans)
Simply superb. At nine years old, this wine has held pefectly and shows not a trace of age. Crisp, but deep, it has character and richness, without ever being overbearing.  Good balance, and considerable style and elegance. Bone dry. 90 points.

1988 Chateau Climens
It is not a phenomenon limited to Climens, because I am simply amazed at how so many top 1988 Sauternes seem to stand still in time. This seems perfectly youthful and pristine, and has hardly budged since I last tried it a few years back.  One sign of age is that it has taken on a bit more weight, and hints just a little at some power.   Still, the wine seems airy and refreshing, the sweetness is moderated, and it is hard to believe it is eleven years old.  92 points.

1995 Banyuls (Chapoutier)
So, now Chapoutier does Banyuls.  Whereas certain Banyuls makers we know and can name, make big, dense, brawny wines, Chapoutier goes for supple and accessible. This wine is perfectly ready to drink, medium sweet, and velvety and charming. It lacks the depth and interest of great Banyuls, but it is a lot of fun.  The supple qualities make it a good medium term quaffer. 88 points.

NV Krug Rosé
Je suis Krug-iste.  I just wanted to get that out of the way so you know where I stand. Still, this is surely one of the great pinks I have ever had.  Some pinks go for sweet fruit and flavor (Feuillate comes to mind). But this is all about power and intensity. The depth, the toast, and the richness are remarkable. The finish is long. It curls around your tongue and awakens the old taste buds. Yum.  Too bad it is so pricey.  95 points.

1995 Chateau Loupiac-Gaudiet QPR Winner
This just-out-of-Sauternes Loupiac is delicious, and a Best Buy.  About $12 gets you a 500ml bottle.  This is a balanced, elegant style that will not hold well with big, sweet desserts.  But the caramel flavors are persistent, the wine is refreshing and delightful, and the price is right.  Would make a great summer aperitif.  87 points.

NV Woodley's Tawny Port (Australia)   QPR Winner
This was dumped into my state for just $8 (normal pricing is probably about $3 higher), at which price it is an amazing deal. It lacks the power and depth of the $12.99 Reynella. Frankly, for the few extra bucks, which are not a major consideration,   I'll take the Reynella, or even the Clocktower, which has more exuberant fruit. Still, this wine is elegant, charming, supple, sweeter and delicious. Some might actually prefer this style, especially as an easy drinking aperitif.   The finish lingers, and the nutty flavors are beautiful.  When you want easy sippin', this fits the bill.  If it were not for the fact that I had just had the Reynella at a mere $12.99, I would be flipping over this wine, though.  At this price, it's worth buying a case. They were out of Reynella, and I did.   For $12.99 the Reynella is an amazing steal, and  at $8 this is a delicious bargain that  is hard to resist. 86 points.

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yellball.gif 0.1 KGermany (except dessert/sparkling)

1989 Riesling Spatlese "Kaseler Nies’chen" (Peter Scherf)
This, along with an Auslese, was dumped in the Pennsylvania marketplace at the ridiculous price of $9.99.   The wine has a lanolin nose that I rather disliked, but the flavor profile was much more attractive and better integrated on the palate.  Just off dry enough not to be acidic, the wine had a beautiful, burnished texture, and an excellent finish.  A superb performance, superb buy.  88 points.

 


yellball.gif 0.1 KItaly (except dessert/sparkling)

1997 Merlot (Falesco) QPR Winner
Does the thought of Italian merlot scare you? How about Umbrian merlot?  This inexpensive wine was a beauty anyway. Tinged with strawberry nuances, there were enough tannins on the finish to provide a touch of structure and support for the well integrated fruit.  Medium weight.  The balance was excellent and the overall impression was of a wine that was simply a pleasure to drink. In many respects, it was hard to identify as merlot since it was so sweet, but don't let that get in the way.  It is drinking well now, and lacks the depth to be much of an ager.  Besides, why keep it?  It won't ever be any more charming.  88 points.

1997 ‘Na Vota Ruche’ di Castagnole Monferrato (Cantine Sant’Agatta) QPR Winner
Fragrant, and infused with sweet framboise fruit, this Piedmont wine overflows with red berry flavors.   The Faleso merlot bears some resemblance to this, but I thought this was actually sweeter and more fruit driven.  It seemed lusher, but perhaps not as well balanced.  It's certainly more flamboyant. Drinking beautifully now; knock it back soon.  You won't regret it.  88 points.

1996 Lachryma Christi del Vesuvio (Mastroberardino)
This was dumped into my state at an amazing $5.99.  Reasonably well reviewed everywhere, this wine shows a medium body, some astringent tannins on the finish, but enough sweet, berry fruit for the flavors to poke through and provide a pleasing whole.   At something like its original price of $17, it is underwhelming. At $6, it is an amazing steal.  85 points.

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yellball.gif 0.1 KRhone/ South / Southwest France (except dessert/sparkling)

1997 Bandol Rosé (Bastide Blanche)
Tempier is normally my benchmark for Bandol pinks, but this wine is about half the price, and every bit as good in this vintage. In fact, it shows better depth and power--usually Tempier hallmarks. The Tempier is a bit more fragrant and ethereal--but that is not a normal Tempier characteristic. In many respects, the Bastide Blanche is more Tempier than Tempier in this vintage. I liked them about equally well, but given the price difference, this is the one to buy.  89 points.

1990 Crozes-Hermitage "Thalabert" (Jaboulet) QPR Winner
Simply gorgeous. This wine has matured beautifully. The texture is round and velvety, the fruit flavorful and wide open. There is a bit of rhubarb in the finish.   The finish is respectably long, and the wine coats your mouth.  89 points.

 

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arrowblu.gif (140 bytes)QPR Winner I started using this tag recently for certain wines that demonstrate an excellent quality to price ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $15), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner,  not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy.  QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively  reasonable price.

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