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Mark Squires' E-Zine on Wine
Handheld Tasting Notes
Australia
This is not for the oak averse, but it is far, far better
controlled than Elderton used to be in the past. It mostly lends the wine a
lush feel, and round, soft texture, which is rather appealing frankly. It is
full bodied and rich, easily accessible, yet there is good structure here
and the wine shows that it has a finish and a backbone as time goes on. This
is a pretty sexy Command. 94 points.
2001 Shiraz "St. Henri" (Penfold's)
This opens a bit too laid back, but it improves steadily in the glass.
There is a hint of mint on the finish, but the oak is integrated
exceptionally well. As the wine airs out and expands in the glass, it shows
the ability to develop, and also its structure, as supporting tannins
emerge. This is beautifully balanced, with a bright, succulent finish, and a
pleasure to drink. 91 points.
1998 Shiraz "Draycott"
(Burge Family)
My latest note on this shows it in good form. This limited production
wine (400 cases) includes 23% old vines grenache, but is labeled "Shiraz." It is
at a stage where the New World components have asserted themselves again, and it
was plainly not Rhone. There are touches of mint and licorice, and it opens with
the oak dominating. As always, however, this develops extremely well in the
glass, and with air the parts integrate very well, and it comes into nice
balance. It shows some intensity still, and has a certain, bright, lively feel. 92 points.
1997 Shiraz/Cabernets
"J.S.M.
(Fox Creek)
This wine was
about $20 AUD at the cellar door, at the time about $13 US, not the type of
price you expect to see holding well on Day 2 for a decade. Yet, it did. It
opened poorly, the oak dominating. It took about forty minutes of air for it to
come around, at which point the fruit finally showed itself, and its structure
appeared as well. It was no longer a one-dimensional oak bomb, but a real wine,
with backbone and nice fruit. The oak integrated more the next day, although the
fruit faded a bit, too. It seemed like a completely different wine, more stern,
more structured. I think I liked it best after a couple of hours on Day 1, but
it showed an awful lot of character on Day 2. In its price
range, that is nice argument to have. 90 points.
2001 "Integrity" (Marquis Philips)
This wine was a success in a sense, i.e, at last I had an Integrity
that I might actually be willing to drink. It opened with blueberries and
lavish oak notes, a mid-weight mid-palate that expanded in the glass with air,
and reasonably good balance between fruit and structure. It had a little focus.
It was restrained, with hints of those raspberries and kirsch elements that tend
to mark this wine, but not to the extent of making it overly flamboyant. A
little more air changed the picture, though. Apparently, the wine was a bit
closed on opening. The longer it sat, the more dramatic it became, and the
alcohol became noticeable. Still, this was a decent performance. It didn't win
the wine ardent admirers, but at least it didn't make people recoil
in horror, as this wine tends to do. 91 points.
2001 Shiraz "Baroota" (Hazyblur)
Sweet cherries lead this fragrant wine off. It is very ripe and flamboyant
on the nose. However, the mid-palate is rather elegant, and the wine has some
focus and purpose. There is also a whiff of green olive in the background, once
past the flamboyant nuances. This has its moments, but not enough of them. As it
becomes more normal with air, I found myself welcoming the normalcy, but not
seeing much of distinction to replace the exotic aspects. 87 points.
2005 Shiraz "The Boxer" (Mollydooker)
Black in color and highly extracted, this wine made me think back to the
last time I had a wine that seemed so flamboyant and eccentric. Oh, yeah. That
would be another Mollydooker, or maybe an Integrity. It opens so sweet on the
finish that I was wondering if there was some residual sugar. A lot of that
moderated with air, but what was left was not necessarily more appealing at that
point. It remains on the candied side, laden with kirsch notes, tasting like
raspberry liqueur. It smooths out a bit with air, but there is always a somewhat
odd, and occasionally harsh note. It is hard to know what to make of this
wine. It simply seems over-the-top in most respects. 87 points.
2005 Shiraz "9" (Marquis Philips)
Kirsch notes attack you on opening, but at first this seems ok. It is soft, and
the mid-palate is elegant in weight. There is some alcohol noticeable in the
back, but it seems to handle the 16+ fairly well at first. A quick taste of this
is utterly deceptive, though. The longer it sits, the more alcoholic it seems.
Its depth is ordinary and its intensity is modest. The wine has a touch of
flamboyance surrounded by alcohol and kirsch. It actually has its moments, but
it is hard to be impressed. 86 points.
1998 Cabernet Sauvignon "Langhorne Creek
- Twin Rivers" (Birchwood)
This opens with a touch of flamboyance on
the nose, a very ripe cherry note. However, the wine is beautifully balanced,
elegant and rather gentle. It drinks very well. It took an hour or so of air to
bring out more typical Cabernet Sauvignon notes, and then they were not the good
kind, with the wine showing a bit green. This had moments when I liked it a lot,
but it lacks intensity and I didn't much care for the developing green. 88
points.
View thousands of tasting notes online at marksquires.com
QPR Winner I give this award to wines that demonstrate an excellent quality to price ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $20), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner, not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy. QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively reasonable price. I give this award to wines that demonstrate an excellent quality to price ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $20), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner, not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy. QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively reasonable price.
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