1999 Chambolle-Musigny "Charmes" (Hudelot-Noellat)
This lovely Charmes starts off bright and succulent, with sweet fruit obvious and delicious on the finish. Air produces focus, and the wine shows its intensity and subtle power with time, producing more grip on the finish. It turns a bit austere with time, but it seems like a prime time wine with years to go. While the wine becomes more intense, it never quite loses its lovely fruit. 90 points.

2000 Gevrey-Chambertin "Combe du Dessus" (Mortet)
Sweet and almost sappy on opening, this is a wine that has a certain "new world" echo to it, seeming plump, fruit forward, and not necessarily focusing much on structure. Who cares? It is simply delicious, and while hardly an intellectual or vin de garde Burgundy, it tastes so good that its flaws or deficits seem unimportant. It is nuanced with black cherry notes that linger on the finish. It does have the ability to improve with some air, picking up some weight and showing some welcome intensity. It has held beautifully in the last few years, but I would tend to drink this sooner rather than later as I am not sure if there will be much interesting left when the beautiful fruit fades. 91 points.

2002 Beaune "Clos des Mouches" (Drouhin)
Smooth, plump and succulent, this opens bursting with flavor, but showing little more. The pretty red berry nuances are drilled into the palate by the acidity, and the whole is very pleasing, particularly as the wine expands in the glass and picks up some focus and intensity with air. This is a hedonistic and delicious Clos des Mouches. 90 points.

1996 Corton "Clos du Roi" (Chandon de Briailles)
Earthy and a bit muted in flavor, this shows some grip and some succulence on the finish, but it never seems more than ordinary and pleasant, a long way from its exalted grand cru status. Routine, a bit simple and foursquare, this drinks nicely but develops little. 88 points.

1990 Nuits St. Georges "Damodes" (Lecheneault)
Flat in flavor, earthy and routine, this seems to have little left but an acidic grip on the finish. The fruit is of little interest, and has faded considerably. 84 points.

1997 Clos de la Roche "Vielles Vignes" (Ponsot)
Bright and elegant, with simple flavors and a rather attenuated finish, this seems like a charming enough little wine, but its not much to get excited about considering its cost and status. There are some perky red berry notes, and little more. 87 points.

1992 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet (O. Leflaive)
Fresh, well integrated, with beautiful harmony, this shows bright and sunny, yet with sensual texture. It is remarkable how well this has held. If it has little intensity, it also does not have a hair out of place for its age.  It seems frozen in time--in a good way. 90 points.

1995 Vosne-Romanée "Les Beaumonts" (Dominique Laurent)
This started slow, seeming light, a bit flat, pleasant but unexceptional. It had some attractive strawberry-and-earth notes. It then fleshed out and dramatically improved with air. The finish became bright and succulent, and the wine also showed off a backbone. It suddenly seemed vibrant and alive structurally, even though the earthy notes gave it a mature feel. It drank well throughout the evening, elegant, sunny and charming. 89 points.

1996 Vosne-Romanée "Les Beaumonts" (Dominique Laurent)
The 1996 version of this wine is a nice step up. It has a certain lushness on the texture, but also depth and power. It seems youthful, and is full in the mouth. It is beautifully structured, with piercing intensity of flavor, nuanced by raspberry notes. It becomes more intense with air, before finally smoothing out and becoming harmonious. The finish lingers. 92 points. 

1995 Echezeaux (Dominique Laurent)
Bright, light and charming, this Echezeaux shows delicacy in the mid-palate, then delivering persistent, but gentle waves of fruit flavor.  This cheerful wine shows a lot of finesse, and great focus. 92 points.

1995 Echezeaux (F. Lamarche)
Bright, well focused, but rich at the same time, this delivers ripe, sweet fruit on the finish, and is particularly delicious early on. The power comes out with air, and the wine loses a lot of its charm, seeming a bit harsh and tight. This has many good points, but needs to cellar well to be really appealing. 88 points.

1999 Chambolle-Musigny "Les Charmes" (C. Clerget)
It is hard to find many redeeming values to this. It is powerful and tannic, very bretty, with a modest mid-palate and a finish in which the fruit is covered up by the barnyard notes. It does have a bit of elegance, and some structure, but also seems a bit tart, and a bit older than its vintage date would suggest. 83 points.

1989 Pommard "Argillières" (Lejeune)
This wine shows a lot of tannin left, and it is probably outliving the fruit a little. Still, it comes together well and for a good while presents a gentle, friendly picture of an aging Burgundy, with bits of strawberries and earth. It is vibrant at times, although it eventually fades. It smells older than it shows. 87 points.
 

2006 Bourgone Pinot Noir Rosé (F. Magnien)
Iced down, this seemed tart and shrill, but a little warmth aided it. It is pale in color, a blush. The aromatics are the best feature, with fresh, red fruit scents. The finish always remains a bit on the acidic side. At a given moment the crispness might be welcome, and it did come together well, projecting delicate Pinot Noir flavors, and an elegant mid-palate.  86 points.

1985 Clos St. Denis (G. Lignier)
This opens a bit musty, and a little sweaty. It needs a few minutes to pull itself together. When it does, there frankly isn’t that much worth waiting for, as it shows light, with fading fruit, and forest floor notes. It seems to be well past prime. 82 points.

1990 Nuits St. Georges “Haut Poirets” (Machard de Gramont)
This smells old and over the hill on the nose, but with air, it briefly comes to life, having a few moments of liveliness, and showing some acid. The fruit flattens quickly after that, though.  This is past prime. 84 points.

1993 Nuits St. Georges “Vaucrains” (Dominique Laurent)
After a little aeration, this perks up nicely, showing some vivacity, and aging but still tasty strawberry-nuanced fruit. It doesn’t stay at peak for too long, and it lacks the structure to evolve for the better at this point. It fades considerably by the end of the evening. 87 points.

1993 Chambertin “Clos de Bêze” (Dominique Laurent)
This opens with a gamey nose, and some acid, seeming a little disjointed, showing sour cherry notes. It knits together nicely, though, and with air, its backbone shows itself and the wine evolves into something nicer, more intense and more interesting. It is not a great Chambertin, though. 89 points.

2000 Meursault “Gouttes d’Or” (Arnaud Ente)
Crisp and steely, this is fresh and initially comes along nicely. With more air the fruit fades a bit, and it seems rather too bright for me.  88 points.

2005 Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet (Pernot)
Buttery and oaky on the edges, this is surprisingly approachable, but there is much more to come. It has a great finish and fine flavor at the outset, laced with lees nuances. I was looking for something to show intensity, however, and with a little air the acidity pokes through and makes this somewhat piercing. On the whole, a very nice performance. 93 points.

1995 Vosne-Romanée “Beauxmonts“ (Clavelier)
This displays tasty, cherry-nuanced fruit that tends more to raspberry as the wine gets brighter with air. It is silky and elegant, but perhaps a bit simple, too. Still, I liked its pleasing fruit, and it did show some earthy notes on occasion with air. 89 points.

1992 Meursault "Les Genevrières" (Jobard)
This lovely white Burg is holding beautifully at age 15. It is lively and fresh, although with air it becomes rather more gentle. It sports a lovely, lingering finish, subtle, but not ephemeral. It is not, at this age, the most persistent or pointed wine, but it drinks well, and displays a friendly, sunny demeanor. It is quite charming. 92 points.

1996 Bourgogne Rouge (Coche-Dury)
This is light in color and body, a red Meursault (the cork is also so branded) that is holding on, but just barely. It is redeemed by some lively acidity that makes the strawberry fruit seem initially more interesting than it is. The fruit has dried out, though, and there is not a lot of interest left. 84 points.