QPR Winner   I give this award to wines that demonstrate an excellent quality to price ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $15), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner,  not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy.  QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively  reasonable price.  NB: If you are using Netscape, there will sometimes be some formatting issues, mostly regarding the supposed failure to turn off bold lettering. It is not a big deal, but if it bothers you, try Internet Explorer.

Alsace   Australia   Bordeaux  Burgundy (red)  and white  Calif./USA: Red and white

Dessert/Sparkling   Germany   Italy   Rhone/South /SW of France   Spain

Alsace  (except dessert/sparkling)
1997 Riesling "Brand" (F. Baur) QPR Winner
It seems curious that this grand cru sells for only about $15, a function of having been direct imported by the importer, so I am told. At that price, it's a modest bargain, and well worth having. I would also have to say that it is relatively restrained and modest for grand cru, and if you had paid grand cru price you'd probably feel a bit cheated. The wine seems just a touch tight, but probably lacks the depth to age well anyway. Not that it will fall apart. It has enough of everything to hold for awhile gracefully.  It has a reasonably solid core, backed by some acidity, but I kept waiting for floral notes to develop and they never did. This is a nice, middle of the road riesling that has enough of everything to exceed mediocrity by a notch, and hold for a few years. In fact, it will likely be better this time next year. But at the same time, it lacks pizazz and you keep wishing for something a bit more exciting to justify that grand cru status. Let's face it: the way wine prices are these days, $15 is a modest price for anything with some prestige terroir.  But this is about what this wine should be worth.  87 points.

1996 Gewurztraminer "Herrenweg" (Schleret) QPR Winner
Every time I come back to this relatively unsung and very fine producer, I am annoyed. That's because no one seems to know who they are. Life is unfair. This basic and well priced dry gewurz ($15 on release) is a perfect and classical expression of the varietal. Initially, it shows the trademark lychee-nut nuances. As it warms up, the spice comes out. It screams gewurz in every instant. The concentration level is excellent and the wine has plenty of stuffing and balance for further aging.  In this age of spiraling prices, what a deal.  90 points. 

Australia  (except dessert/sparkling)
1998 Cabernet/Merlot (Joseph)
Plump and succulent, this lush Bordeaux blend is very clearly New World. The fruit is exuberant, redolent of red berries, and a bit candied, at that. It retained a somewhat odd, too sweet note on the finish.  You might like this a lot. You might find it lacks a little typicity if a Bordeaux-blend is really what you crave. It will be interest to see if calms down and knits together, acquiring some balance, as it ages. It is delicious now, for what it is, but I'm not sure I can think of it as a Bordeaux-blend. Rather pricey at $40.   88-90 points.

1996 Alchemy (Canobolas-Smith)
This kitchen-sink wine is mostly cabernet and cab franc, but blends in a lot of shiraz. Presto-chango? Well, it is very good, but not magical. Well balanced and intense, with a bright red berry nuance up front, it shows excellent ability to improve with air in the glass. I'd say it could use a couple years of age in the cellar, too, to hit peak. The medium to full-bodied mid-palate never seems shy of fruit, but is not heavy or dense. I'm not sure where the magic trick comes in, but it is pretty nice wine. It's development will be interesting to watch. 90 points.

1980 Cabernet (Chateau Tahbilk)
This, and Grange, always had the reputation as being Australia's longest-lived red table wines. And so it is here. If someone told me this were a 1978 Grand Puy Lacoste, it would have been almost believable. There are some hints that it is not Bordeaux but in so many respects it seems SO Bordeaux....Medium bodied, well balanced, aging gracefully, with a tinge of maturity around the edges, it was a wine I liked more with each sip I had, granting that it has lost a touch of freshness. 89 points. 

1993 Shiraz "Eileen Hardy" (Hardys)
This wine seemed racy and exciting when it came out. Now, it just seems dominated by American oak. In fact, it's drenched in American oak,and the dominant flavor in the wine is the puréed licorice and dill notes that heavy new oak applications tend to deliver. It's a shame, because the fruit still seems good, reasonably deep and lush. But any varietal characteristic or flavor of the fruit is utterly obliterated by the new American oak. For my tastes, these days,  wines like this are pretty hard to take, and I can't. Those who can get past the oak-drenching will like it better. There was a lot of good material here once upon a time.  83 points.

1996 Shiraz "Command" (Elderton)
As Elderton Command goes, this is actually rather restrained, and the restraint is most welcome. The mid-palate is reasonably dense, but not as stuffed as in, say, 1992. The new American oak notes are still there, but the wine is not drenched in it as has sometimes happened.  The fruit shows unusually good balance and a smooth, appealing texture. It is hard to call Elderton Command "elegant," but as Command bottlings go, this one might qualify.  90 points.

1998 Chardonnay "Norton Summit" (Clarendon Hills)
There is a touch of butter, and some acid, and also a certain roasted apricot feel. At the moment, this wine seems just a touch disjointed and it is not entirely clear where it is going.  I liked the various parts, but I would like to see them knit together, too. It is possible the score might rise, but I am not as impressed with this wine as others have been. 89 points.

1998 Basket Pressed Bordeaux Blend (Highbank)
This Coonawarra Bordeaux blend is mostly (2/3ds) cabernet sauvignon. It shows medium bodied, with some bright, overt, fruity raspberry notes. It has some elegance, and seems to drink fairly well now, lacking some depth and mid-palate concentration. Still, I think this will be nicer in one to two years, although it will likely never pick up enough weight. 86-88 points. 

1998 Shiraz "L'Oizeau" (Hewitson)
This is classic and very enjoyable shiraz. Well balanced, with layers of flavor, it has something in the mid-palate, but never seems overbearing. I liked the way the components knit together. The only question I had was....can anything that drinks this well now hold very long?  It comes from McLaren Vale but in demeanor it struck me as more of a cool climate wine.  88 points.

1997 Sangiovese "Premio" (Pikes)
I rather liked this somewhat odd Clare Valley sangiovese. Bright on the first attack, a little too bright, perhaps, this dissolves pleasingly into a smooth, nicely textured wine with just enough overt fruit in the mid-palate. It grew on me, although no one would call this great wine.  Oh, and some liked the pretty label. 87 points. 

1998 Cabernet/Merlot (Mt. Horrocks)
I liked this Clare Valley cab for the reasonable depth of its mid-palate, and a hit of vibrant, raspberry-tinged fruit up front. I tend to find that demeanor a lot in Aussie cabs, for some reason, and some on the first impression remind me a little of Burgundy in flavor more than Bordeaux  (and then some are thick and powerful.....).  This did everything right, nothing spectacularly well. It should age gracefully for a few years and be a fine middle of the road cab. 88 points. 

1999 Grenache/Shiraz (Hill of Content)  QPR Winner
There is a nice core of fruit wrapped inside this rather charming wine. There is not enough depth, and it seems a little too light on its feet at times. Still, lively and friendly, with a little hit of acid on the back, this drinks easy and drinks well now.  This modestly priced wine is a lot of fun. I think this will come in around $17, and while you will find Aussies at this level with a lot more power, they won't be any more enjoyable if you prefer this style. 87 points.

1998 Grenache "Clarendon" (Clarendon Hills)
Exotic and offbeat, you had to love it or hate it. The fruit is big and ripe, yet by no means unwieldy. The eccentricity comes from the flavor. Hmmm. How to describe it?  Toffee strawberry? It's odd and yet it grew on me, and actually showed some finesse, too. Not for everyone. 90 points.

1998 Grenache "Blewitt Springs" (Clarendon Hills)
Tighter and more focused than the "Clarendon," this has just a hint of mint, and some tannins on the finish. The flavors are both more muted and more classical.  This can and should be cellared for a few years and will drink better, I think, around 2002. This shows some class, balance and distinction. 92 points.

1998 Shiraz "Liandra" (Clarendon Hills)
Full of brambles and briars, this wine shows a bit closed, and tight, with some astringent tannins on the back end. There is sweet fruit in the mid-palate struggling to emerge. The welcome structure should stand this wine in good stead, and it will probably show better with three to five years of cellaring.  Very good or exceptional? It will depend on its evolution, and I found this a bit hard to evaluate today in the time I had.  I don't think you'll ever be disappointed, though.  89-92 points.

1999 Shiraz "Hickinbotham" (Clarendon Hills)
Of the fine lineup from Clarendon, this pricey entry was the undoubted star in my view. Spicy and delicious, complex and curious, the wine seemed to evolve by the second in the glass, and was never anything but beautifully balanced and flavorful. The wine shows some finesse, and has just enough depth. It's another Clarendon that may show much better with age, but it was scary how well it was drinking tonight. 92-94 points.

2000 Chardonnay/ Verdehlo "Harlequin" (Brokenwood)
I came to like Verdehlo a lot when I was in Australia, but this blend with chardonnay just doesn't do it for me. The Verdehlos I saw reminded me more of a pinot grigio with a touch of green; this seems almost sauvignon blanc-ish, with a touch of grassiness. It has a lot of zest and zing, and some green apples on the finish.  Not much depth. 85 points.

1999 Shiraz "Langhorne Creek" (Clonakilla)
I liked the seductive texture on this reasonably rich, smooth, oily wine. The nose is tinged with a bit of raspberry that follows through on the palate. There is a lot of black currant in the mid-palate. Again, it is scary how well this is drinking at this age.  Will it hold at all? Probably in the mid to upper 20s in price, and it might be worth a try. 88-90 points. 

1996 Cabernet/Merlot (Bannockburn)
This producer always seems to aim for more structured, French-styled wines, relatively speaking. This one doesn't make it. Oh, it manages the bright part, but the finish is candied and the wine seems a bit odd, with that overtly bright red fruit I see in so many Aussie cabs (see the Mt. Horrocks review, above). Interesting, but I like their shiraz in this vintage a lot more.  86 points.

1999 Pinot Noir (Rochford)
Another good but ultimately unsuccessful effort for Down Under pinot. Retailing for over $30, this wine just comes up a bit short. It has the elegance down. It is cheerfully bright. The finish does have some lingering power. The fruit is tasty but a bit odd, with a touch of rhubarb, and it flattens out quickly.  There were times when I was warming up to this. And other times when I was royally unimpressed. I was hoping it was $15. At $30, my final vote is unimpressed.  Of course, given the prices pinot commands these days, maybe $30 is cheap. This is up to you.  87 points.

1998 Shiraz (Craiglee)
Nice and pretty, but thin. This is a wine I could've grown to like if it had just had more stuffing. The diluted mid-palate left me disappointed. 84 points.

1999 Shiraz "40's Old Block"  (Green Vineyards)
Stereotypical, over-the-top shiraz, in a style I've increasingly come to hate. That is, utterly drenched in new American oak, to the point where it tastes like someone melted a blueberry vanilla sundae into the vat. Excellent for ice cream. Not so good for wine. This is a waste of good depth and fruit, utterly unbalanced. Those who can tolerate the oak will like it more.  85 points. 

1997 Bordeaux Blend "Olmo's Reward" (Frankland Estate)
Drinking nicely now, this Western Australian wine was a relief after the Green Vineyards. Well balanced and charming, the wine has nice fruit flavors in a medium body. It could have used a bit more oomph and a bit more depth, but it was hard to dislike.  Probably over $30 per bottle, but with the prices soaring the way they are, I can't get too bent out of shape about that even though I can think of some nicer wines with more mid-palate concentration for the same price or less.  88 points. 

1998 Shiraz "Isolation Ridge" (Frankland Estate)
Sweet and friendly, easy going and charming, this is already drinking beautifully, and already knit together well. There seems to be no depth to speak of and no tannins either.  For this style of wine a low $20s price might seem a bit high, but everything's relative and it sure is fun to drink at the moment. It's up to you.  87 points.

Bordeaux (except dessert/sparkling)
1988 Chateau L'Angelus
The '88s have a certain austerity to them, especially in the Médoc. This St. Emilion is on a completely different page, though. It is simply amazing in the context of the vintage. Lush and deep, with an intense, powerful bouquet, this has some ripe, tangy tannins for further graceful aging, and dark chocolate nuances. Seductive and sexy, ripe and rich, this is drinking beautifully, but is youthful and vibrant, with years to go. 92 points.

1983 Chateau Palmer
This wine has had an odd life, at least from my cellar.  On release, it was a monumental, seemingly massive Palmer. Then, like a lot of the '83s in general and from the Margaux appellation in particular, it dropped tannins quickly. It also seemed to drop fruit and was suddenly somewhat light and almost a bit too thin in the mid-palate. At the same time, as it aged, it developed a lovely Burgundian feel, a beautiful violet-scented bouquet and seductive, velvety texture. Still, I wondered where the fruit went. Flash forward a couple of years. A lot of the fruit seems back. Oh, it will never again resemble the monster of its youth--it is very much about elegance now, no matter how you look at it. But while retaining the elegance and charm, it  has seemingly put on a bit of weight in the mid-palate. It seems like a great Palmer once again, not a flash in the pan. 92 points. 

1990 Chateau Montrose
This heralded wine immediately turned off about half the table with its heavy dose of brett and bacon fat. Montrose has that demeanor at times.  Yet with air, the components of the wine integrated nicely, and it showed complexity. The core of the wine had a velvety texture. The wine changed and evolved by the minute in the glass. There was indeed sweet fruit underneath, although the wine never seemed incredibly dense or thick, contrary to earlier notes. (A lot of '90s, it seems to me, have come into balance quickly and do not show as massively as they did when young...1990 Pichon Baron, for one example.) This has never been a wine for everyone, and the brett level was certainly a defect, but I liked it a lot anyway. 92 points.

1988 La Fleur de Gay 
This opened unusually bright for a Bordeaux, let alone a Pomerol. With air, it developed some weight and authority, never exceeding, however, a middle of the road, medium weight wine. Enjoyable and easy to drink, the wine could've used a little more intensity and depth, but substituted some charm. An acceptable performance in the vintage, but nothing to get excited about. 87 points.

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Burgundy (red) (except dessert/sparkling)
1995 Morey St. Denis "Cuvée des Grives" (Ponsot)
I thought I would give this highly derided wine a second chance.  It showed better this time, actually. It is still hard to believe that a producer of Ponsot's reputation would have the temerity to release it.  On opening, the color is worrisome, almost transparent at times. The taste follows through. While not quite as annoying as it was a year ago, there is still a slightly sour quality to the aftertaste. The mid-palate has autumnal notes that are shocking in a five year old wine. I can only think that this wine, produced in only about 350 cases, suffered from oxidation or mistreatment somewhere in the vinification process. On the good side, the texture of the wine is smooth and round, and had a pleasant feel and there were slight cherry nuances from the fruit. That's all, folks.  76 points.

1988 Bonnes Mares (Comtes de Vogue)
This was a wine generally dissed on release. The expectations of the terroir and the producer could not be met by what was in the bottle.  The price was right, so I bought a lot of it anyway.  Every bottle I have opened with every passing year has been better, as it has opened and blossomed. (The last one showed about like this.....) Oh, to be sure, this is not truly great Burgundy, and perhaps it could have been. It is still a bit too hard. But that is an occupational challenge in this vintage. Yet, the wine holds brilliantly in the glass, develops all night long, and today gives more flavor that it has at any time in its life. It is  solid in the mid-palate. To be sure, it lacks some Burgundian charm. I wonder, though, if it is done yet or if another few years will show still more development. This is certainly an atypical Burgundy, but it is growing on me. Needless to say, given Murphy's law, I am making this discovery at a point at which I have very little left. 90+ points.

1995 Pommard "Noizons" (J. Garaudet) QPR Winner
I liked this on release, and it is drinking very well now. Rich and deep, the wine has good weight and a velvety texture, and a bright, cheery demeanor that lets it go down easy. There is relatively little tannin, although plenty of acid.  It seems to me to be a wine that would be best drunk on the young-ish side, but it certainly shows not a hint of fading, though it also shows completely accessible.  Subtle cherry nuances, and a nice finish complete the package. All that betrays its value pricing (relatively speaking) is the "drink now" demeanor.  Good deal, fine wine.  90 points. 

1990 Nuits St. Georges "Clos de Forets St. Georges" (Domaine de l'Arlot)
Another red beauty from Arlot, which had fine performances it seems up and down the line in 1990. Bright at first, it developed weight as it sat, and became a tightly wound, dense, berry flavored wine. Call it dark chocolate raspberry in texture and flavor. The concentration was excellent for a wine of this age and status, and the fruit was fresh and emitted flavor all night long. Good weight, solid finish. 90 points.

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Burgundy (white) (except dessert/sparkling)
1996 Meursault (Coche-Bizouard)
Lemony, with lots of acidity and no noticeable oak, this medium to light-bodied Meursault is a bit of a concern. I think it needs a year or two of cellaring to let the acidity calm down and integrate, but I'm not entirely sure the fruit will reward that much let alone longer cellaring. In two years it is possible that the fruit will just be thinner, and the acidity still overly dominant.  At the moment, the wine seems sprightly, with some zing and zest on the finish, but the ultimate answer in how well it shows will come when the fruit survives the aging process necessary to make this more appealing.  This is not an unpleasant wine, but it is not distinguished Burgundy, either. It has a sort of Macon feel to it at times.  84 points.

Meursault-Genevrières (Latour-Giraud)
Round, with open fruit, and some spice and some acid on the finish, this shows just enough depth to provide a good mouthfeel.  The acidity is a bit overly prominent, but should integrate nicely into the wine with an other year or two of cellaring. The finish is acceptable, and that nice, textured mouthfeel the wine has lingers on the tongue. This falls a couple of bricks short of exceptional, lacking both real depth and intensity,  but the drinking is easy.  87 points.

1992 Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Champgains" (M. Niellon)
This seemed to be a gently fading wine that had a certain charm and elegance, but little depth or intensity. The fruit was medium bodied, the lees overtones were light, the finish was reasonable, though not spectacular, and the wine showed the ability to improve modestly in the glass. A good, not great Niellon, and one that has passed peak by just a tad in my view. 88 points.

1990 Meursault-Charmes (Bouzerau)
Smokey and focused, this interesting and well balanced wine integrates the acidity with the fruit perfectly, and develops a silky feel in the mouth. At times, it reminded me more of a pinot gris. But the intensity and focus were excellent, the finish excellent and the wine pleasurable. I was happy to drink up. 90 points.

California/USA (red) (except dessert/sparkling)
1997 Zinfandel "Dogtown" (Turley)
Bright and disjointed on opening, this needed some time to knit together, which it eventually did. Still, this didn't strike me as a great Turley effort. It seemed a bit bitter, and a bit hot on the finish. The mid-palate fruit was sweet, and the wine was certainly enjoyable, but there is a very high standard for success here. It is only relatively disappointing.  88 points.

1986 Cabernet Franc (Horton Vineyards)
There were pros and cons here. On the upside,  this inexpensive wine improved in the glass, and gained some weight. On the downside, it seemed a bit weedy, and bit vegetal at times. It opened nicely, with some earthy notes that blew off, and it held well, but it was hard to call this a real "find." It showed better tasted at the winery, but it has been perfectly stored since.   80 points.

1983 Cabernet "Cold Creek Vineyard Chateau Reserve" (Ch. Ste. Michelle)
Lowered expectations often bring pleasant surprises. And so it was here. A touch of mustiness on opening blew off quickly, and the wine became elegant, displaying some almost-pristine fruit.  Focused and pleasing, it had passed the point where it could be called a great wine or hold interest for long, but it was still charming and worth drinking. 86 points.

1997 Bordeaux Blend (T-Vine)
This interesting winery has generally, in my tastings, produced enjoyable, very good, not great wines. So, too, here. For a young Bordeaux blend, this seems a bit light in the mid-palate, and it thinned out way too fast in the glass with a little air. It was flavorful and persistent, bright and friendly. It was fun to drink, but a brick or two short of special. 88 points.

1998 Syrah (Lewis)
Round and lush from new oak, I think, this wine nonetheless shows some backbone with a little air. Tannins pop out, and the wine seems unusually spicy.  I found it a bit disjointed, and in need of some cellaring at this point. I think all the components are there for it to come into pleasing balance, but it was a little hard to get a firm read on it at this tasting. 89-91 points.

1997 Petite Sirah "York Creek" (Ridge) QPR Winner
Youthful, sweet and grapey, this is an exuberant wine in full cry and first bloom.  Decadent, full throttle fruit almost has a beaujolais nuance at first, but as it airs it takes on a bit more character. The wine even shows some underlying tannins and structure, which suggest that it will hold reasonably well and come into some balance. Not that drinking it young is a bad thing....this is a wine that will have many fans for the many different faces it presents in its lifetime. It reminds me a bit of how some great young Ridge zins showed in their first year or so after release (and they calmed down too, but did not always have as much structure as this has, I suspect). For pure sex appeal, 90 points.

1997 Meritage (Pahlmeyer)
Silky and sweet, this wine surprised me a little when served blind because it also had a heckuva dollop of new American oak. At first it seemed more American Syrah than Cal meritage. Within ten minutes, a different wine emerged, the oak integrated so completely it was hard to discern, and this became the the sexy, sweet and packed Pahlmeyer I've always liked a lot. Cellar this for a couple of years, and you'll be happier, even though it came around quickly in the glass. 92 points.

1996 Cabernet "Diamond Mountain Vineyard" (Martin Ray)
This is a pleasant $23 cab. Unfortunately, it sells for over three times that. I have a QPR Winner tag. I'm thinking that I need a QPR Loser tag, too. This would sure be a candidate. Relatively light, and relatively bright, the wine showed some pleasant red berry notes as a flavor profile. But they were marred by some green and vegetal qualities in the mid-palate, that grew stronger on the finish. For a super premium wine, this also lacked depth. I am also wondering how many pricey 1996s I have been unimpressed by of late. It seems to me this vintage for Cal cab is a notch or two behind the '4s, '5s and '7s that surround it, and this wine does nothing to exceed or meet expectations.  87 points.

1997 Cain Five
Some astringency on opening dissolved into a nicely balanced wine with a reasonably solid mid-palate, and nice Bordeaux feel. Good fruit, good concentration and a pleasing finish make this a wine that is completely enjoyable. For all that, it always seemed on the verge of a statement, and always failed to make one. Still, this is very good. 90 points.

1997 Cabernet "Elevation 1147" (David Arthur)
Inky black, closed and hard, this was a wine that was admittedly hard to evaluate in the time I had and at the moment. The tannin levels are considerable, although they do integrate with air. The wine is nicely focused and well delineated, but the flavor is a bit subdued and it seems a bit closed. There is good depth in the mid-palate, and I think, reasonable balance. But it's hard to tell right now, and the fruit seemed to lag a bit behind.  I wouldn't touch this again until 2005 at least, assuming you have good storage, and it may show its best around 2007-2012. As this ages, we'll see what's what, and whether it is merely very good, or exceptional. 90+ points.

1985 Cabernet "Napa" (Dunn)
From this bottle of unknown provenance at least, this is finally drinking well, and even showing some oxidation. Perhaps so-so storage actually helped it get ready! The fruit opens sweet, but not lush, as a lot of older Dunns show, and the wine tastes of some oxidation around the edges. Medium bodied now, it actually seems rather elegant and almost quaint. Of course, the Napa was never the bruiser that the Howell Mountain was. I wonder if this is a typical bottle. It seems to show like so many older Dunns show--tannins softened, but fruit slightly faded, not having kept up. It drinks well, but no one guess this was a cult wine in its day. 86 points.

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California/USA (white) (except dessert/sparkling)
1994 Chardonnay "Diamond T" (Talbott)
The '94 Diamond T does not, in my view, match the superlative 1993. Still, it's pretty darned good and in a style that leans more to France than California. The mid-palate has thinned a touch, but the reward for the bottle age is a bright, lively wine with soft core of fruit, and a nutty, leesy finish.  I'm not entirely sure this bottle justifies the pricing--these days, what does?--but it is charming to drink. 89 points.

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Dessert/Sparkling 
NV Tawny Port "PS St. Marion" (Rockford) QPR Winner  
This was a wine I have not had since I was last in Australia. My pleasant memories were reinforced.  And if you think that all Aussie tawnies are alike, here is proof positive that they are not. This is not as deep or as intense as a Seppelt Para Port, nor as big as a pure power wine like a Chateau Reynella Old Cave. Nor is it as lush as a Yalumba Clocktower.   Yet it manages to provide elegance and finesse, with residual sweetness, a great finish and subtly concentrated mid-palate. Most other Aussie tawnies I've had that seem a little lighter, also seem a bit acidic, thin and uninteresting. Not here. This is one of the rare wines that manages to carry off ultimate finesse, projecting a sense of lightness, without sacrificing flavor, finish or mid-palate. Just beautiful, and only about $20 AUD. But the plane fare to Adelaide is a killer, since this is not imported.   92 points.

1996 Rieslaner Beerenauslese "Ungsteiner Bettelhaus"(Kurt Darting) 
Too young, still,  this well balanced BA shows some characteristic apricot nuances, with adequate acidity. It never fully opened though, and it was easy to see that it would develop some weight and more viscosity with age.  When it comes into its own, and I would wait another three years minimum, this will be luscious and delicious. Lingering finish..... 90-92 points.

1991 Muscat à Petits Grains (Tolley's Pedare)
More or less dead on arrival, this thin, faded wine from Australia showed little but bitterness and pale ghosts of what it was, if it was anything much. Not quite undrinkable, but close. 70 points.

1997 Coteaux du Layon "La Prochaine" (Templai) QPR Winner
A solid, dense mid-palate is backed by good structure, with nice acidity on the finish. The fruit is peachy, no pun intended,  as well as concentrated, with good balance. It finishes well, too! 90 points.

1995 Bonnezeaux "Cuvée Ste. Anne" (Renou)
Bright and medium-bodied, this has mango notes and a certain reticence. The acidity integrates quickly with air, which is too bad because the wine needed more. The fruit is good and the wine is medium-sweet, but there is a certain air of ennui here. It never quite takes the next step. 88 points.

1998 Botrytis Riesling "La Magia" (Joseph)
Big and unctuous, this wine goes for syrupy thickness and generally succeeds. It is a bit shy on acidity, though there is some. I really liked the sweet dark chocolate mango nuance, and the finish was reasonably good. A step short of spectacular, it is nonetheless very fine. 90 points.

1998 Golden Semillon (Elderton)
If the "La Magia," above goes for thick and powerful, this is more brightness and charm. Sunny and appealing, the wine has considerable sweetness nicely balanced by some sprightly acidity. The texture is appealing, and the fruit lingers in your mouth, driven home by the acidity. Charming and easy to like. 91 points.

1988 Sauternes (Coutet)
It's hard to call Coutet underrated, but they don't really seem to get the attention a lot of estates with bigger names and more presence get.  They are just as good, though, and sometimes a bit more reasonable in price. This is another 1988 that evolved at a snail's pace but is now drinking well. Spicy and distinctive, this well structured Sauternes  is not on the creamy, luscious side, but is bright and elegant, pristine and beautiful. Every flavor nuance has all of its components in perfect balance, and it all comes together on a lingering finish.  91 points.

1996 Tokay Pinot Gris "Altenbourg" (Albert Mann)
Smoked mangoes and apricots, well, ok, toss some cling peaches in, too....this wine is exotic and emits a variety of nuances on the bouquet.  The palate is reasonably dense and well balanced, with just a hint of syrup. I liked this a lot. It had just enough decadence to fit my mood. 92 points.

1988 Sauternes (Lafaurie Peyraguey)
Heavily marked by botrytis, this wine projects power rather than lushness and viscosity.  Everything about it seems intense, from the acid to the botrytis, to the well focused fruit. The mid-palate is solid and the finish is just super, flavorful and lingering.  This is, in some respects, the polar opposite of the Coutet, above, but they are both terrific. Why do I have to choose just one style? I want both. This is not done evolving yet.  90+ points.

1994 Late Bottled Vintage Port Reserve Unfiltered (Rozès)  QPR Winner
Grapey and very sweet, this seemed to have little power and little depth on first opening, but the gorgeous, lush texture and the unusually  sweet fruit were enough all by themselves to make it a steal in my area for $10.  Fragrant, soft and delicious, it reminded me of chocolate velvet.  With air, its fruit bomb demeanor also changed, and it showed some more stuffing. It comes with a real cork to allow cellaring and development and has more "true vintage port" character than most LBVs.  It seems to be a "traditional" LBV, and rewards decanting and aeration more than a typical LBV usually does. Although it will never be mistaken for the deep, tannic powerhouse that was, say, a 1991 LBV Taylor's, I ultimately saw it reveal some fine tannins and structure after an hour of aeration in a glass, which greatly improved it.  At hour three it was still drinking exceptionally well.  Notwithstanding that it cannot match a Taylor's in power or depth, it is seductive, complex, delicious, interesting, flavorful, and at this price....gotta have it.  88 points.

1994 Port (Rozès)  QPR Winner
This came into my area as a new release for $27.  As 1994 Port goes, it is too soft and lacks adequate tannins, depth and structure, although it sure did put on weight and taste way better after an hour's aeration than it did on opening.   Forget what it might have been, though, and it's sure worth the price. It seems closer to the quality level of a great, powerful LBV than a great 1994 true vintage porto.  But of course, some great LBVs are pushing close to $20 themselves these days in new releases, and this wine also has some age on it and a little of that "true port" grip and character.  I also liked its suave demeanor. Speaking of age, it seems to be drinking reasonably well (the '94s as a group, of course, have seemed unusually accessible), although I suspect it might improve some with a bit of cellaring.  It seems to lack the structure for really extended aging and development.  While this certainly has  more focus, depth,  intensity and structure than the Rozès'  LBV, above,  I liked the LBV about as much  relatively speaking (I thought it was a better LBV than this was a "true port"--my scores are relative!)  not to mention the value pricing in the LBV's favor. While this is an excellent buy, too, the LBV, at a third of the price, gives you more bang for the buck.  If the price differential were $5, I'd get a lot of each. Or maybe even not much of the LBV.  At nearly triple, though.....well, keep in mind that for about $40, another $13 or so above this,  you can get some pretty serious 1983 vintage portos at auction that well exceed this in quality level. To sum up, I bought a case of the LBV and one bottle of this.  If you need everyday vintage Port, though (I don't), let me encourage you to try some and buy more. It sure tastes good, and drinks well for now. It just lacks power and depth associated with great port from a great vintage.  86 points.

1996 Quarts de Chaume (Baumard)
At first sniff, you know! The delicate, but persistent bouquet signals pristine, sweet, impeccably balanced fruit. The first sip tell you, too. Lively, but concentrated, tinged with apricot and peach. With air, it only improves, thickens, ripens, and develops a finish that lingers and emits pure and pristine flavor. A pleasure to drink. 93 points. 

1989 Abalonga Beerenauslese  "Westhofener Steingrube" (Wittman)
Dark amber color preceded a smoked apricot body. At first, it was bitter, with acid and not much fresh fruit. Surprisingly, with air, it improved, ripened, developed flavor and became quite enjoyable. It was a remarkable turnaround for a wine I was rather disliking and discounting. Still, I wouldn't hold this. Drink up. 89 points.

1989 Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese "Weiseheimer Halde" (Neckerauer)
Relatively dry and not terribly viscous for a TBA, this showed a dark orange color at the outset, but not too much age on the palate. What it lacked in viscosity it made up in intensity. The persistence on the finish was superb and the wine always seemed solid in the mid-palate. 90 points.

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Germany (except dessert/sparkling)
1989 Riesling Auslese "Horrweiler Gewurzgartchen" (Espenschied)
This estate seems to lack an American importer at the moment, and what a shame. Ripe and concentrated, this wine nonetheless shows impeccable balance. But that's not all. The finish is startlingly good, long and lingering, nuanced with spice peach notes. It picks up weight and depth in the glass and seems more intense after awhile on the finish, too. Superlative, delicious, complex, and deep. 92 points.

1989 Riesling Auslese** "Wehlener Sonnennuhr" (Kerpen)
This sumptuous Mosel is all that and a bag of chips! Elegant, yet concentrated, it provides a satisfyingly rich mouthfeel, along with a bright demeanor and well integrated residual sugar. The wine delivers flavor effortlessly, and the finish is a lingering remembrance of a focused, mid-palate fruit.  Put it in a pot, mix it all together, and you get....92 points.

1983 Riesling Auslese "Josephshofer"  (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
I had this purely by coincidence twice in two days. The first was an auction purchase. It seemed slightly faded and plainly thinning, this has enough stuff and flavor to be enjoyable, and it had its moments. I didn't exactly pour it down the drain, and I liked its apricot-scented bouquet and citrus nuances. I also would have liked to have seen a little less thinning in the mid-palate, and there were some obvious signs of decay and oxidation around the edges, which would suggest that this is a wine to be drunk, not held, at least as it showed from this bottle (which, in fairness, evidenced some seepage around the lip of the bottle).  Pleasant, but somewhat past prime as it showed Saturday. 84 points. The second was brought by the owner of the winery. Pristine and way fresher, it did not show the same oxidation or decay, and the fruit flavors were purer. Way better. Glad I had a second chance. 89 points.

1999 Riesling Spätlese Scharzhofberger (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Just super. Mouthgripping intensity, yet perfectly balanced bewteen sweet, intense fruit, residual sugar and acidity. Very intense, with a solid mid-palate. I thought there was just a touch of spritz for a moment, but it blew off fast and developed weight and thickness with air. Superb, though still very young. 90-92 points.

1998 Riesling Kabinett "Piesporter Goldtröpfchen" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
This wasn't actually the best wine in the flight--the 1999 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett was IMHO--but this showed better today. Burnished and round, with a touch of peach and a touch of lime, the sweetness was gently laced with acidity. This had a lingering finish and seemed to drink well now. Beautiful, medium bodied, and very elegant. 90 points.

1994  Riesling Spätlese "Josephshofer" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Well! This is so thick and dense, and so sweet and luscious, I thought "spätlese?" There's a hit of residual sugar on the finish, and the acidity kinda sneaks up on you, but is subdued by the rich fruit and sugar. The mid-palate is dense and concentrated, the finish is long and lingering. Wonderfully concentrated, and just delicious. 93 points.

1997 Riesling Auslese  "Ayler Kupp"  (Winzerverein Co-op at Ayl)
This is a bit of a joke as an Auslese, but it came into Pennsylvania for about $13. At that price, it's a fair price, more or less. It seems more of Kabinett quality, light, with just a touch of spritz that blows off quickly. The acidity is gentle and refreshing, with a bit of lemon. There's little concentration or sweetness and the finish is a bit short. It is a straight-ahead Mosel that just managed to improve with air and warmth, taking on a bit of weight.  Friendly, inoffensive, and undistinguished it may be, but it is a nice quaffer with some gentle charm and flavor.  It will make a perfect summer party aperitif, but it's a pretty poor excuse for a young auslese, and seems several years older than it in fact is.  82 points.

1999 Riesling Spätlese Trocken "Scharzhofberger" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Bone dry, aggressive and hard, this steely wine is not enormously acidic, but is lemony metal. It seems flat and dull, charmless and hard to get a grasp on. Maybe it will improve with age. Maybe not, unless you really like trockens. 85 points.

1999 Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken "Scharzhofberger Anniversary Wine" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt) 
Sprightly and lively, this wine displays zesty acidity with a touch of pear, not just lemons. It has a pleasing finish and good weight. Its mid-palate is solid, and the residual sugar just cuts the bitterness on the steely riesling. This might come around and calm down with age, and those who like the drier styles will like it more, but I am a little underwhelmed, though not unhappy. 87 points.

1999 Riesling Kabinett "Scharzhofberger" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Metallic notes mingle with acidity and sweetness in a nicely balanced Kabinettthat shows some power with air. It develops nicely in the glass and the acid is mouth-gripping on the finish. With a year of cellaring, this will work nicely. 89-91 points.

1998 Riesling Kabinett "Kaseler Nies'chen" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Acid dominated, but with a good solid body, this shows neither enough charm nor flavor in my view. I think there is some question of balance, and this is not a wine that I would bet on in the long haul. It's not bad; but the estate has produced much better. 86 points.

1993 Riesling Spätlese "Graacher Domprobst" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Aging beautifully and gracefully, this round and ripe wine has opened nicely. There's a refreshing hit of lemony acidity on the finish, surrounded by plenty of concentrated fruit and flavor. The wine is very intense and very focused, and well delineated. Beautiful and well structured. 91 points.

1985 Riesling Auslese "Kaseler Nies'chen" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Elegantly luscious, this shows some age, and some tinge of overripe apricot. At the same time, it seems so lively, and is laced with zesty acidity. It's not sweet, but is riper and richer than it seems at first. The initial impression is elegance and relative dryness, but it is lusher than it seems and with air gains weight. Very nice. 90 points.



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Italy (except dessert/sparkling)1
1998 Rosso Conero Sassi Neri (Fattoria Le Terrazze) QPR Winner  
The wine opens a little too harshly, with some astringent tannins up front. But surprise, surprise. It blew off quickly with ten minutes in the glass. It knit together quickly for its youth, and showed a tightly wound core of elegant, cherry-nuanced fruit. It seemed so silky and there was so much red fruit, that, when served it blind, I guessed new world Pinot Noir. Oh, well. It was good nonetheless, beautifully balanced and relatively bright. Not particularly deep, or powerful, but a good wine for the short to mid-term. 88 points.

1994 Barolo "Vigna Rocche" (Parusso)
Bright and a bit astringent at first, this wine has a lot more to reveal than a few minutes can accomplish. With air, it becomes lusher and the texture becomes velvety. The bouquet emits violets and there are hints of blueberries from ripe, young fruit on the palate. For all of that, the wine has some sternness and a backbone. On the whole, a well balanced Barolo set for long aging. 90 points.

1999 Pinot Grigio (Alois Lageder)  QPR Winner  
A lot of the whites coming from Alto Adige have become my favorite Italian whites, and while they are not stupendous in depth, they are  reasonable in price and good values. This basic pinot grigio lacks depth and concentration, but that's not what it is there for. It does what it intends to perfectly. It is light and friendly, charming and easy to drink. Sprightly acidity provides a bit of zest to the wine, but never overwhelms the body. This won't age well, and loses points for that reason,  so plan on drinking it this Spring and Summer for the perfect outdoor aperitif.  85 points.

1989 Barolo Riserva (Fontanafredda)
Stern, a bit astringent, stolid and forbidding on opening, this wine took forever to open. Some I know have speculated that the 89 Barolos have closed down some; this would certainly seem to be in accord with that view, especially considering that the producer generally makes friendly, accessible Barolo. It took some patience and air, but the tannins eventually did integrate into the wine. The first attack was bright, but the mid-palate, while relenting a little, always seemed surprisingly thick and not fully open.  The wine had leather and earth nuances around the edges and on the finish. It never fully opened, but seemed to be poised to become something very nice with a few more years cellaring.  89+ points.

1997 Vivaldaia (Villa Pillo) QPR Winner
This inexpensive Super Tuscan, around $20, is promoted by the new owner of Williams Selyem. The bad news is that it lacks depth or concentration. In many respects, it is a simple wine. The good news is that it is bright and cheerful, with delicious red berry  nuances.  The texture softens with air, and the wine's components integrate in a pleasing fashion. It is light to medium bodied, and seems very cabernet-dominated. If you're looking for a Cal cab styled wine, this isn't it.  Too light, too bright. On its own, it is nothing profound, but at the price, very fair and rather charming. 88 points.

1997 Sassello (Castello di Verrazzano) QPR Winner
Even though this wine hits $40, I was had to give it a QPR Winner tag. Debatable point.  BUT in an era when the most heralded Super Tuscans approach triple digits, it is fair to say that this delivers comparable quality for a fraction of the price. Thick and dense, with slightly astringent tannins, this is not a shy wine in any respect. In time, and with five years of cellaring, it may show some lushness, and the fruit may emerge from the stranglehold the tannins are applying now. In fact, aeration in the glass improved the wine dramatically, although it never fully developed. If it is stern now, there is certainly plenty of fruit under there, enough so that I have no fear for the wine's balance with appropriate cellaring. The finish is long and mouthgripping. How this wine ages will tell a lot about how high the score goes. 91-93 points.

1998 Morellino di Scansano Riserva (Fattoria Le Pupille) QPR Winner
This new wave Super Tuscan wine is the polar opposite of the Sassello, above. Where the Sassello broods, this is exuberant. Where the Sassello demands cellaring, this seems irresistible now. Where the fruit in the Sassello is momentarily overwhelmed by tannins, here the fruit is dominant and gorgeous. Tonight, this is the better wine. In terms of potential, it will ultimately be surpassed, I think, although the outcome is not guaranteed. Certainly, for a mid-20s price it is the better buy.  Sexy and fruit forward, this provides a layer of  sweet, cherry-nuanced fruit in an elegant medium bodied core. It seems charming and exotic. With air, some tannins pop out, and they provide welcome structure, and a good omen for the wine's development. It will be interesting to see how this evolves, assuming you can resist drinking it all now. 90-92 points. 

1999 Chianti (Piccini) QPR Winner
This cheap-o Chianti is more or less a jug wine. It's pretty good, though, at about $11 for a magnum. It's eccentric and bears little resemblance to real chianti. It's simple, fruit forward, and berry flavored, perhaps a touch candied on the back end. The sweet fruit isn't displeasing though, and at this price level, this is a fun wine that will be a good, easy-drinking party-crowd pleaser. Needless to say, drink young, i.e., immediately. It's too thin to hold.  It loses some points for lack of structure, typicity and ability to age, but for a basic party wine, it has its place. 81 points.

1999 Chianti "Borghi d'Elsa" (Melini) QPR Winner
This inexpensive, under $9 wine is pretty nice for the price. Unlike the Piccini, above, it shows some typicity and seems like Chianti. I've paid more for Chianti and gotten less. The acid is well integrated into the wine, and it seems reasonably solid for this price level in the mid-palate. The finish is short but gains some persistence from the acid.  The acid doesn't overwhelm, though. There's nice fruit.  Loses some points for depth (though good for this price level) and ageworthy attributes. 84 points.

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Loire (except dessert/sparkling)
1997 Chinon "Cuvée Prestige" (Gasnier) QPR Winner  
In a $15 range, this is another delicious Chinon bargain. Soft, velvety and a bit grapey on opening, the wine never stops delivering flavor, and the texture is seductive. There is a bit of green pepper on the finish that I've never much cared for in cab franc, but also some strawberry notes, and great balance. On the whole, this is a super wine that can hold a few years and delivers a lot for a little. 90 points.

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Rhone/South/Southwest France (except dessert/sparkling)
1989 Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvée Centenaire" (Les Cailloux/Brunel)
This is a simply stupendous Chateauneuf that does about everything brilliantly. It is focused, but very deep. The bouquet was muted simply because the wine was so dense and closed.  With air, the texture takes on some lushness and the fruit exudes more and more flavor, touches of roasted meat, but mostly pristine, raspberry nuanced fruit. The concentration, depth and ripeness of the fruit make it superlative on all fronts. It is in perfect balance, too, as rich it is. Although it did open with air, it should have had an hour in a decanter. That said, an even better solution would be another three to five years of cellaring. 96 points.

1998 Saint Genis Vin de Pays de Carcassone (Domaine Puydeval) QPR Winner
Two notes. The first bottle was highly suspect. The fruit was already thinning and tastes old. It is shocking that syrah/cab franc blend from the Languedoc  is a 1998. If it was damaged somewhere, it is not apparent from the appearance of the bottle. If it had TCA, it was not perceptible. It just seemed like a sad excuse for a young wine, flat, uninspiring, a little oxidized here and there,  and seemingly 15 years older than its vintage date. 79 points. I tried a second bottle.  The second bottle was a relief, in that the wine at least showed decently. Some bright red berry notes dominated at first, and some game and leather later. The wine still seemed a touch thin in the mid-palate and a little unexciting, but at least it wasn't the defective monstrosity the first bottle displayed. Worth getting as an everyday quaffer. Drinking nicely now. 84 points.

1998 Coteaux du Languedoc "Vielles Vignes" (Chateau Lancyre) QPR Winner
This Southern Rhone-styled wine from Pic St. Loup is a steal at $13. It has a Cote Rotie silkiness at times, a Bandol sauvage note for good measure, and the pretty, flavorful fruit one gets in Chateauneuf. There seemed to be a touch of  brett on the nose, too, especially as it aired out for awhile. Beware....brett gets worse with poor storage. As it was, the wine was distinctive and had character, and in this price range was a "must have."  This a wine of elegance and solid fruit in a medium-bodied core. There were hints of tannins underneath as it kept opening for some time. Approachable now, it will likely be better in a year. Just think: a Southern Rhone blend, with Cote Rotie silk.  89 points.

1998 Cotes du Rhone "Parallele 45" (Jaboulet) QPR Winner  
How great a best buy is this? In almost any vintage it is a perennial best buy winner. In 1998, approaching it now, it is stunning. Rich and ripe, unusually concentrated, this wine seems to have a touch of complexity as well.  It adds some leather and and game and packs it into a seductively textured core. Under $10 everywhere, and close to $6 with case discounts in the most aggressive stores, it is  delicious, and it also seems to have some intensity. I wonder how well this will age? It might fool a lot of people and hold quite well. Unfortunately, I doubt anyone will be able to keep their hands off of it. And sure, wines like this seem to have a lack of depth when they age. But for the moment, let's call this 88-90  points, depending on development. NB: get well stored bottles! Wines like this are particularly susceptible to damage and indifferent storage.

1998 Cotes du Rhone Blanc "St. Gervais" (Domaine Clavel) QPR Winner  
You know their Copa Santa, but have you tried the white? This wine works. Reasonably concentrated, with a nice solid mouthfeel, it is backed up by some acidity that integrates well with the wine. You have good texture, good depth for a wine in this class and nice, pure flavor.  A nice, straightforward, straight ahead white that has the solidity to hold up to food. 87 points. 

1998 Cote Dorée (L'Aigulière)
This specialty bottling from this well known Languedoc producer is typically fine but not quite as fine as I had hoped. There is a hit of fine, back end tannin, but on opening the wine seems curiously light and very accessible. With air, the fruit becomes very sweet and grapey, and the wine takes on some trademark bacon fat nuances. It gains some weight in the glass but never really acquires the depth and the mid-palate concentration I was expecting. I did like the brushed velvet texture a lot. Maybe it's just a tad closed? Maybe lively and fruity is what there is, and all there is. 89+ points.

1998 Minervois La Livinière  "Chandelière" (La Combe Blanche) QPR Winner  
Paired on different nights with the Cote Dorée above, and the Grange des Pères below, I liked this wine as well or better. Versus the  Cote Dorée,  this wine surprised everyone on the table by winning every first place vote. Focused and silky, it has wonderful mid-palate concentration, a well delineated core of fruit, and nuances of game and red berries.  The fruit is persistent, sweet and intense. Very well structured, solidly built....this is a terrific buy at just over $20 in my state, although the list price is around $30.  It has depth and class, elegance and concentration, a fine example of what this estate and appellation can achieve. Note: this isn't your father's Minervois! Papa's got a brand new bag.  91 points. 

1993 Grange des Pères
This is one of the best known of the non-Rhone, Southern French stars that are springing up from Provence, the Languedoc, Madiran and other areas. Regrettably, few have actually pierced the public's consciousness. L'Aigulière has, Grange has, Mas de Daumas Gassac (of long standing), Chateau Montus, Peyre Rose, Trevallon,  and precious few others have. There is a second tier of wines like Chateau La Roque, Richeaume, Chateau de la Sauvageonne, and others that get some notice. Most have no public profile in the USA at all.  Grange has always been perhaps the biggest, most powerful and most exotic of the group. I wondered how it would age, having had it on release, when, if anything, it seemed too big and a little unwieldy. Answer: It's impeccable.  It opens up as exotic, flamboyant and exuberant as always.  Tinged with strawberries, the sweet fruit is remarkable for the flavor it exudes. Someone comments that it seems more like Australian shiraz, and that was a good observation. With air, the wine settles down, though. The power comes to the fore, along with some tannins, and it seems deep and full of brambles. I frankly liked how it showed earlier, as the fruit nuances of flavor faded a bit. But no one could say that it deteriorated, given the layers of concentrated fruit that remained. This wine has gotten very pricey, and might well be one of if not the most expensive wines from its regions (pushing $50). Still, it has aged beautifully, and shows amazing depth. Paired with the Combe Blanche above, I have to say I marginally preferred the Combe Blanche, but remember, too, that the Combe Blanche was a 1998--just released. Will it show THIS well at age 8? It will be interesting to see, but I think not.  At this stage in their lives, the two wines are about equal, although this one is certainly deeper. This gets a little extra credit for its depth and ageworthy qualities, but I did not like it any better than the Combe Blanche, above, for current drinking.  91 points.

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Spain (except dessert/sparkling)
1994 Rioja (Remirez de Ganuza) 
Light cherries, with bright, youngish-tasting, yet somewhat thin fruit combine to achieve mediocrity.  Yep, I could taste some cherries, but they were washed out.  The fruit begins to meld with the bright structure with some air. But it also loses its intensity and flavor.  There is not much hint of the trademark vanillin oak overlay.  It reminded me of weedy, acidic sangiovese from a bad vintage in Chianti.  I guessed that blind, by the way, and feel no remorse. Surprise. It's Rioja. Oh, not bad. But ho-hum, and a rather short finish to boot. 84 points.

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