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Tasting
Notes
January/February, 2004
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QPR Winner I give this award to wines that
demonstrate an excellent quality to price ratio. They are sometimes more
expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut
off at $15), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner, not every QPR
winner is an official Best Buy. QPR winners are simply wines that are
great values for a relatively reasonable
price.
Alsace
Australia
Bordeaux
Burgundy
California/USA
Dessert/Sparkling
Germany
New
Zealand
Rhone/South/SW
France
Alsace (except
dessert/sparkling)
2001 Gewurztraminer " Vielles Vignes "Furstentum" (Albert Mann)
A lot of 2001s seem drier than normal
in Alsace, and this is no exception. It is another well crafted
gewurz, however, from Mann, one of the great value wineries in the
region. There is just a touch of sugar, enough to give the wine some
charm. But there are tons of varietally true spice and pepper notes,
which, as is typical, increase dramatically with air and warmth. This
lacks the depth of really first rate gewurz, but it is a classic
wine, and for those who like it on the drier side, you'll find it
quite nice. 89 points.
1995 Riesling "Brand" Vendange Tardive (Zind-Humbrecht)
This opens rather light and surprisingly on the dry side for
a young-ish VT, but time and air change half that equation. Every now
and then you find a wine that just explodes in the glass--this is one
such. It opened bright and clean, with some sugar mostly on the
finish, but it picked up weight and became more and more opulent as
it sat. It remained sunny, but developed beautiful flavor, and it
sported a lovely, lingering finish. A beautiful riesling. 93 points.
Australia (except
dessert/sparkling)
QPR Winner
2000 Cabernet/Merlot "Coonawarra'
(Petaluma)
Vintage 2000 in this cool climate cab
region was warmer than usual, so
there might be a reason that this doesn't seem so "cool,"
particularly at
first. It's very good though. Half cab, half merlot, it seems to get tons of
chocolate from the merlot, and some creamy notes from the oak, which
is not yet fully integrated but should meld well into the wine with
more age. The supple tannins and the cabernet provide a little
intensity to go with the flavors. With air and decanting, the
expected brightness finally shines through and there are nice notes
of raspberry to go with the chocolate. I'm pleased to see that
the fruit rebounds the next day, and the wine is better, if anything,
showing better balance and plenty of flavor. On the whole, nice
focus, classic cab flavor and persistence. This runs about $30 AUD,
might be similar here. 90 points.
2001 Chardonnay
"Piccadilly Valley" (Petaluma)
The label tells you that you will get minerals and stones. Well,
the nose has a smell of wet stones, and they are underneath,
and there are some classic chardonnay moments here. But
the key nuance in the wine is certainly the creamy vanilla,
i.e., a hit from oak. While that will automatically make some stop
reading, it shouldn't, for while the wine lacks the austerity or
steely quality of, say, Chablis, the oak, while always present, and
too present for some, is not too overbearing. You can taste and smell fruit, too. It's medium bodied and
flavorful, and has nice viscosity, as well as a nice finish. There's
a touch of spice, with more air. I have no pricing on this, but I
imagine it, as a blend of vineyards, is well priced, in which event I
suspect some will swoon over this wine, given its rather sexy
demeanor. Oak-a-phobes will be less happy, and the next day, while
the wine showed well, the oak hadn't exactly integrated. But I've
seen lots worse. This drinks well now, should
be fine for the near term, a couple of years, too. 88 points.
1997 Shiraz/Cabernets
"J.S.M." (Fox Creek)
It's hard to get past the creamy, vanillin oak at first, but
eventually, some sweet fruit does emerge. This wine is holding very
nicely, has a respectable finish, and a medium body. That blueberry
vanilla note, helped along by the overly generous oak treatment, will
be adored by some and reviled by others. Still, there's a lot here to
like and the wine does lots of things right. A little restraint in
oak treatment would've been nice, though. 89 points.
1998 Shiraz Reserve (Fox
Creek)
This wine reminds me a lot of the 97 JSM, above--there's nice fruit
lurking underneath too much American oak. This does have a bit more
depth, and a nicer finish, and you can actually taste some fruit on
the finish. The label promises blackberries and there are
blackberries aplenty, but the label also promises well integrated
American oak. I've seen worse, but the first impressions here are
mostly of oak, of cream and licorice. It integrates a bit, but
"well integrated" is a bit amusing as a claim. Both this
and the JSM would rate better scores and show better if they were not
raised in American oak, and/or showed a lot more restraint---which is
hard to do with American oak, given how prominent its flavor altering
tendencies are. Still, this will make a lot of folks very happy.
Those who saw a huge monster on release, by the way, will be pleased
to know the wine has come into balance in other respects besides oak
very nicely. It is still lively, and shows some zing from the
occasional tannin, but the fruit matches the structure well. 90
points.
1998 Grenache
"Cornerstone" (Greenock Creek)
Soft velvet on the texture, and sweet strawberry inside,
make this an appealing grenache. It has reasonable depth, and seems
mouthfilling. There are touches of kirsch on the finish. It evolves
nicely in the glass, but it is perceptibly a bit hot, and too heavy
on the alcohol, which gives it a bit of a clumsy feel at times. 88
points.
1997 Shiraz "Balmoral"
(Rosemount)
Supple and sweet, the first impression here is from ripe
tannins, which give this wine a playful zing, and some zest. It has
nice focus, and modest depth, showing some restraint in many areas.
It did nothing particularly wrong, but after drinking it I was hard
pressed to say what it did really well, too. This is a bit too
pricey, around $50, to leave one feeling quite so bored. 88 points.
2000 "Eclipse"
(Noon)
Long one of my favorite Australian estates, Noon's 2000
Eclipse shows nicely, and it is accessible now. Big and dense, with
supple tannins, it shows a touch of caramel and oak on the finish,
but mostly delivers sweet fruit that dissolves onto your tongue. This
is a structured wine, but its ability to deliver flavor consistently
and effortlessly is impressive and memorable. 92 points.
1997 Grand Merlot (James
Irvine)
My last taste of this showed a wine that seemed so stewed
that I wondered if it was cooked. This taste was actually a bit
better. It still had some stewed tomato notes, and it was hardly what
one would call typical merlot. It had a funky nose, and flavor
nuances some called rhubarb, others called stewed tomato, but all
agreed were odd and bizarre. I did find some focus and some sweet
fruit here, and I probably liked this more than most, but this wine
has fallen a long way from how it showed on release. 84 points.
1998 Shiraz (Warrenmang)
Inky black in color, this shiraz shows licorice and heavy
oak notes on the finish, but it has a surprisingly well balanced
demeanor otherwise and a nice, focused mid-palate. I did think it was
a bit coarse at times, and substituted oak for fruit flavor at times,
but it developed nicely and improved in the glass to the point where
it was enjoyable to drink. A revelation it wasn't. 88 points.
1996 Grenache Old Vines
"Lalla Rookh" (Coriole)
When this was released it was powerful and tight, dense and
closed. Then, it went through a period where the remarkably sweet,
strawberry and kirsch fruit popped out, obscuring the structure
unless you decanted it. Now, it seems pretty much in complete
balance, with the fruit still sweet but not too sweet, and the
tannins still apparent, but not too intimidating. It sported a nice,
velvet texture, too. On the whole, this is still very nice, and
drinking well. 90 points.
Bordeaux (except
dessert/sparkling)
2000 Chateau Lafleur
This heralded wine was closed for
business, wrapped tight, shut down. Got the picture? While it's not
true of all of them, I'm seeing this more and more on the 2000s (my
recent review of Cheval Blanc being another example). So, take note:
the big boys in this vintage are about to become unapproachable for
the better part of the next decade. I thought I detected some mature
notes on this a few minutes into it being poured, but they blew off.
The wine had no decanting, and went nowhere. It opened bright and
refreshing, with dried cherry notes, and some astringency on the
finish. It is firm, brooding and tight, giving up absolutely nothing.
I'd love to see how this showed on Day 3. As it is, it seems
amazingly powerful and dense. I'm admittedly guessing, considering
how challenging this was to evaluate under the circumstances, but
call it 94-96 points.
1996 Chateau Pichon Baron
This opens a bit stern and flat, but
that doesn't last long. There is a lovely floral nose, beautiful
perfume coming from this wine. If I didn't like it quite as much on
the palate, as it aired out, it showed more stuff, finally displaying
some sweet fruit in the middle, and a little bit of velvet. I think
this will drink better in about two to three years, although it was
quite approachable now. 91 points.
1989 Chateau Lagrange
Although I find this rather overshadowed by the massive and
superlative 1990, this was pretty good. Smooth and focused, this is not quite easy, but it has charm and some
sweet fruit, with a bit of air. Its depth and finish are average, and
it isn't exactly an earth shattering wine, but it's harmonious and
pleasing. Nice, if not quite distinguished. 88 points.
2000 Chateau Pichon Lalande
Served blind and decanted for some five hours, this wine
immediately evoked the comment most often heard about it....that it
had some olive notes, something a bit green. But there is nothing
that seems unripe about this, and the high cab franc content seems to
produce that olive note. It's only a nuance, never fear. This showed
way better than the simple wine I had at Vin Expo. It also shows some
pepper and spice, and ripe tingly tannins after some five hours in
the decanter. It is very supple, very young and grapey, with almost a
syrupy, sappy core at first. It seems soft and elegant, with classic
Bordeaux notes. The texture is very sensual. What I don't get on this
wine is a whole lot of depth, though. It is delicious, but I'm not
sure it is particularly profound. 92 points.
1989 Chateau Saint-Pierre
This often charming, never profound wine is usually a good
deal and always pleasing. The 1989 has come along nicely, and still
shows some fresh fruit, although it has thinned a bit, and finishes a
bit short. At this point, this is what the British might call a
"luncheon claret," but it has always had a certain charm,
elegance and flavor that make it very appealing. Not dying yet, but
this is a good time to drink it. 88 points.
1986 Chateau Poujeaux QPR Winner
This was one of the finer performances from this excellent
cru bourgeois. I think this was about $9 as a future, and over
fifteen years later, it is still drinking well, still shows excellent
depth. I do notice some notes of maturity in this wine now, some
earthy notes, but there is nothing here that is in danger of dying if
well stored. Even from this bottle (the cork was a bit saturated
although there was no seepage or stain on the top of the cork), it
shows robust flavors and there has hardly been any thinning of fruit.
The tannins, however, have moderated. Drinking well now, this is the
kind of find you hope for. If, eighteen years later, it is merely
very good instead of superb, consider that $9 cost... 88
points.
Burgundy (except
dessert/sparkling)
1992 Corton-Charlemagne (B. Ambroise)
I rather disliked the sour nose on
this wine, but the rest was pretty nice. Lush, yet with a touch of
brightness on the long finish, this showed lots of class and
respectable amounts of fruit. For all of that, there was something
about this wine--perhaps its lack of intensity--that did not
completely convince me. Maybe you'll like it better, especially if
you enjoy more mature notes. 90 points.
1992 Chablis "Montée de Tonnerre"
(Raveneau)
Just lovely. It's a bit light, but in
all other respects it is startling how young and fresh this wine is,
how pristine and pure. It is sunny and lively, hardly stereotypical
austere Chablis, completely open and giving. There are no hints of
mushrooms, which some of the really old ones start to get. If someone
told you this was only a few years old, you might believe them.
Refreshing and scintillating. It could use a touch more depth, but
other than that, it's a big winner. 94 points.
1995 Pernand-Vergelesses "Ile de
Vergelesses" (Chandon de Briailles)
I loved this at the Domaine, but as it shows here, it has
thinned a bit too much, too fast. Not exactly vin de garde.
It opens with nice perfume, and has that silky texture to the body
that fans of the style will appreciate. It has little bursts of
raspberry flavor, too. The problem is that the wine is a bit short on
fruit, and while the grip and structure is nice, I yearned for a bit
more depth. Okay, but undistinguished. 87 points.
1988 Clos de la Roche "Vielles Vignes"
(Domaine Ponsot)
Sweet and lively, this shows mature notes at times,
some earthy, forest leaves nuances, and some strawberries, but the
liveliness of the wine gives it a certain vibrancy and exuberance.
The tannins are very soft, and the depth is just average, at best,
at this point, and the color is very light. I had this wine when it
was younger many times and loved it more. Perhaps fans of more
mature Burgundy will like this thinner, gentler incarnation, but I
found myself wishing for days gone by, even though I still enjoyed
this a lot. 90 points.
California/USA (except dessert/sparkling)
1995 Chardonnay "Cuvee Cathleen"
(Kistler)
Loaded with oak, as well as lees notes, this projects
butterscotch and popcorn, yet it is piercingly clear in the
mid-palate. Is there fruit here, too? There is! Quite a lot,
actually, and rather sweet and concentrated. Oak-a-phobes and those
who prefer delicacy will be less forgiving of this wine, but if its
style is one you like, there's a lot done well here. 92 points.
1995 Chardonnay "Gauer Ranch, Upper Barn" (Marcassin)
This opened with toast, and charcoal. The latter, I consider
a bad sign, one of the taste nuances that gives me some hint that the
wine may start cracking in the not too distant future. But for
tonight, it was a hint, and a nuance, and the wine worked well. Big
and powerful, with lots of complex flavors, it showed great balance
and a fruit driven finish. The nose was dominated by that charcoal
note though, which did follow through to the palate. Drink happily,
but drink up. 90 points.
1996 Dominus and 1997 Dominus
These are both very nice, but not great Dominus. Let's take
them together. I understand that the 1996 received heavy filtering.
The 1997 didn't. If I hadn't known that, I'd have wondered at the
stylistic change between vintages. The 1996 is focused, pure,
clean and flavorful, seeming like classic cab in many ways. Its fruit
and flavor are lovely, the texture has some respectable amount of
velvet and I liked its focused presentation, although at times it was
a bit compact. But for the disconnect between the price and the
wine, I'd be happy to drink it any time. IF you want to see some
differences, though, try the 1997. It's not as pure and clean, and it
shows a little bacon fat, some might call it brett, as well as cassis
and chocolate. It's a bigger, rich wine, and also more distinctive.
Of course, perhaps you won't like that distinctiveness. Nonetheless,
for me it's the clear winner in every respect. The '96 and '97 are
both youthful, but I suspect only the '97 will improve with
furthering cellaring. Both should hold fine for the foreseeable
future. For the 1996: 90 points, and just barely. If it does
not improve with cellaring, as I suspect, it will drop a bit.
For the 1997: 93 points.
1996 Cabernet ( Abreu)
Poured next to the monumental '96 Shafer Hillside, this was
neck-and-neck with it initially. Both wines were decanted a couple of
hours. How did this differ? It was unusually bright, with a finish
that might seem more appropriate for Burgundy. at first, I just loved
the fruit flavor, tending to raspberry (naturally!), although the
lushness added a touch of chocolate. The wine turned astringent with
more time in the glass, but eventually the tannins moderated. It had
a beautiful texture, but it left that lingering brightness which in
my view detracted from the flavor on the finish. All that said, this
is just by way of explaining why I didn't ooh and aah over the wine.
It was still pretty fine. 93 points.
1996 Cabernet " Hillside Select"
(Shafer) and 1997 Cabernet " Hillside Select"
(Shafer)
An interesting matchup. Both are super wines. Nod to the
'96. I think. The best part about the '96--the amazingly intense,
gripping finish. Despite nearly two hours of decanting, this was
still tight when poured, though watching it develop in the glass was
a lot of fun. It showed substantial tannins on the finish, but became
seductive, while retaining its focus and intensity. Beautiful flavor
and texture, too, although it is not quite as lush as the '97. The
'97, speaking of the '97, was supple and pure, pristine and gorgeous.
I loved its elegance, a great change from the thick monster it was in
its youth, yet it was still intense and tight. As it sat, it got
sweeter and sweeter, with bright elegance, but I liked the structure
on the '96 better. Still---I wouldn't be surprised to see the '97
overtake it with time, and have more of an upside. So. For the '96:
97 points. For the '97: 95+ points.
1997 Cabernet "Eisele Vineyard" (Araujo)
Decanted about two and a half hours, this was supple, but
still huge and dense when we got to it. It show spicy and very ripe
tannins that created a pleasant tingle on the tongue. Rich, deep and
round, with beautifully pure fruit, it had a certain voluptuousness
caress on the tongue that I liked a lot. This lacked the focus of the
Shafers, above, but if anything, it showed denser fruit. This
wine has developed magnificently from its awkward youth. I hope I'm
not underrating it. 95 points.
1997 Zinfandel "Hayne" (Turley)
Oh, my. Is it really possible to have this much flavor in a
wine with this much structure? This seems to have improved
brilliantly in the cellar. Sweet, but powerful and gripping, the
flaws I thought I saw in this young are no longer there. I love d the
raspberry notes, the supple tannins, the bright, intense, lingering
finish. What a difference a couple of years makes. No longer merely
good, this is superlative. 95 points.
1993 Petite Sirah "Hayne" (Turley)
Some liked this better than I, but personally, I thought
this far too civilized for Turley, and a little boring. Others found
it charming and well balanced. It is true that Turley PS tends to be
more civilized than the Hayne Zins. Still, this seemed bright, with
some dense fruit still, but the fruit seemed to be losing a bit of
flavor. There were many things this wine did right, but I just
felt a bit underwhelmed by its restraint and relative lack of flavor.
89 points.
1996 Pinot Noir "Riverblock"
(Williams-Selyem)
This is one of the more successful W-S
'96s I've had of late. I've been disappointed by the vintage at WS, which
seems to have prematurely aged. Not that this wholly avoids some of
the flaws I've seen in others. It has a bit of tomato, some touches
suggesting an overly mature wine around the edges, some brown around
the rim. But it also has
beautiful, sweet raspberry fruit on opening, and a certain richness I
rather liked. It was drinking pretty well the next day, too, although
the tomato was a little more prominent vis-a-vis the
raspberry. 91 points.
1987 Cabernet Reserve (Mondavi)
Big but focused, this famous wine mostly does not rest
on its laurels--it proves why it has them. Pure cassis flavors
abound, and the wine has mature notes around the edges. While it
always seems weighty and solid, it is also well constructed and
structured, never seems ponderous. A goldie oldie, still doing well.
94 points.
2000 Zinfandel "Paso Robles--Dusi Ranch" (Ridge
Vineyards)
This 100% zin is a real nice effort. It has a lot of
earmarks of Standard Practice Ridge. Yes, there's that creamy oak
and vanilla up front. But the wine also improves with air, showing
brighter, with supple tannins and a medium body. Once past the oak
hit, there is also some blackberry flavor, and the wine mellows out
considerably. In fact, as it aired, I'd have to say it proved
there's not much depth here. It is still an attractive concoction
for early drinking. It shows nicely now, although it shows that it
will improve more with a year or so of cellaring, but I wouldn't
expect this to be a Ridge vin de garde. Drink on the younger side
if you want to retain a wine with some flavor and intensity. 89
points.
1985 "Monte Bello" (Ridge Vineyards)
This, like the Mondavi Reserve on this page, is another mid-80s
Cal Cab or Bordeaux blend that has held well. This shows a bit
thinner than the Mondavi, and has a bit more cream, a trace left of
American oak. It is also very elegant, and still flavorful, and shows
finesse and purity in all other respects. The key concession to age
is the thinning fruit. That American oak note, which has thankfully
faded some, was always the one thing I hated about Monte Bello, but
it is not overly prominent. Ultimately, this has a sensual, easygoing
charm that is very appealing. 89 points.
2002 Pinot Noir "Upper Terraces"
(Beaux Freres)
This opens with a fine, expressive nose. It's what you want in
pinot noir. The palate seems a bit light, very elegant, showing lots
of finesse, but I was looking for just a touch more weight. There
wasn't sufficient time to really let it air out, although we didn't
leave immediately either. In place of that depth, though, there was a
medley of lovely flavors that were irresistible. It started out as
bright and raspberries, turned to black cherry. It never stopped
throwing off waves of flavor, and remained intense and determined.
Very young, so a range. 90-92 points.
1996 Petite Sirah "Aida" (Turley)
As one might expect, this has oodles of flavor, but the
interesting thing about this PS is what it's not: overbearing and
over the top. Some have this stereotype of Turley... This shows
beautiful focus, a precise, carefully delineated mid-palate,
supported by ripe tannins. It's intense and powerful, but not
particularly thick. There's a nice, lingering finish to close it up.
92 points.
1991 Cabernet Reserve (Beringer)
I've reviewed this several times, and at its best, i.e.,
perfectly stored, it has been a superb, even a young, bottle of wine.
I've had other incarnations ranging from clearly damaged to tasting
five years older, too. Storage, storage, storage. This is beautiful.
The nose says Bordeaux, but the palate is full of fresh, sweet fruit
that still gives off intense flavor. The texture is velvety and the
wine is supple, but still firm. It is certainly ready to drink, but
from this bottle tastes refreshing and youthful, too, although the
tannins seem nominal, so at least that aspect of the wine is at or
near maturity. The balance is superb, mixing elegance in with
pure flavor. Another fine 1991 cab. 94 points.
1999 Chardonnay (Kongsgaard)
There is some oak, but also seemingly some pepper and spice, and
this wine is marked by two features: brightness and depth. The latter
you expect in top California chardonnay, the former is not always the
dominant feature. There was a toasty nose, but I came back again to
that vibrancy on the finish. Lively and deep, I'd like to see what
happens to this with a few more years of age, but I'd say it's
drinking well now. 91 points.
1993 Pinot Noir (Beaux Freres)
When this wine was released, it was basically undrinkable, the
wine's characteristics totally obscured. It took a year or so to
shrug off the aftereffects of bottling and vinification, and it
became what the winery probably considers its most Burgundian-styled
release. I thought, though, that it needed early drinking. Yet, here
we are. A decade later, and this relatively lighter styled wine is
still drinking well. The wine is elegant and flavorful, bright and
lively. There are some mature notes, some forest leaves and
earth, but the fruit is also sweet, its depth has not declined much,
and a couple of hours later--it was just as good, if not slightly
better. A very impressive performance for the second commercial
release from this winery. 92 points.
2001 Zinfandel (Madrigal)
In
2001, this seems riper, deeper, and
not quite as bright as some prior years, although there is some
liveliness around the edges. It needed some depth, in my view. The oak is restrained, altering mainly
texture not flavor.
There is a round chocolately note to the mid-palate, and some plum
notes, i.e., darker
fruit. In most respects, it would be my
favorite of the zins I've had from Madrigal, certainly the one I
enjoyed the most out of the bottle, but read on for a caveat.
But how can a wine this young from a fine vintage be so easy, and pretty
much lacking in intensity? It seemed much more mature than its vintage date, almost as if it had been held
back for late release. Holding it in a decanter for a couple of hours
brought up some structure and tannins, and I was relieved to see it
was, if anything, better wine the next day, but it always had that
extra note of maturity.
On pure enjoyment at the moment, given that the wine is currently
quite tasty, approachable and charming, I'd give it 90 points or
more, but I usually take off points for wines that should
have the potential to improve, that I think will not. At the moment, this is far better
than the exuberant but somewhat short 2000. Still, in 2001, I'd really like to see this improve in the
cellar, even with a year or so, before giving it a bigger score. I'm
a bit concerned with how mature it tastes. 88+ points.
2000 Cabernet Reserve (Chimney
Rock)
There were things I was loving about this when it opened. It was
fragrant and charming, very tasty, with bursts of raspberry fruit.
But it was impossible to get past that one big problem: it seemed
hollow and diluted, simple and thin, like too many 2000s. In fact, it
was scary how thin it seemed for a premium wine (prices vary widely
at retail, but list is $95). Fortunately, I didn't write it off, as
this wine has hit a dumb stage and needed some breathing. Two
hours of breathing later, it suddenly showed intensity, from tannins
that emerged, as well as more depth. The delicious red berry notes
never went away, moreover, and suddenly this was a very attractive
wine in an elegant, very focused style. Drunk next to some heavy
hitters from 2001, it still revealed itself to be a bit shy on depth,
but it had a laser like hit of delectable fruit, and ultimately I thought this was a very nice effort in the vintage.
Let's see if this improves or not with a a couple of years of
cellaring and the fruit and tannins are in balance. 89+ points.
1981 Cabernet
Limited Cask Reserve (Inglenook)
This is long past Inglenook's glory years, of course, and it
shows. This wine is a deader than a doornail, showing little but
oxidation and maderization. The wines from the '60s and '50s often
still show well. This is a goner with no redeeming features.
Undrinkable. 50 points.
1999 Cabernet "Fay Vineyard" (Stag's Leap Wine Cellars)
This seemed to do everything nicely, nothing superbly. I liked
the cassis in the middle, and the focus of the wine, but like a
lot of '99s, it also seems a bit easy and bland. Medium bodied, with
just a little bit of dusty tannin on the end, this does a nice job of
making classic cab, but it isn't cheap for what you get. 88 points.
2001 Merlot (Pride)
Sweet chocolate opens up this big, sumptuous merlot. There's
toasty oak up front, but also structure and tannins that give this
more intensity than routine merlots. It's not a flabby fruit bomb.
The intensity, balance and backbone give this a sort of St. Emilion
feel, although the flavors are all New World. Very nice. This is
supposedly Pride's basic Merlot, but of course its price is not so
basic. It shows well the next day, too. This is approachable now, but
should hold well. There's enough tannin there so I wouldn't be
surprised if it shuts down, though. 91 points.
2001 Cabernet (Pride)
Gripping, deep and powerful, this "regular" cab is
chock full of cassis, and lurking underneath is a wave of ripe
tannins. On top there is a note of toasty oak, which integrates well,
however. With air, it becomes brighter and more lively. The finish is
lingering, and laced with raspberries. This is a superb performance
from the so-called "regular" cab, and if it cellars as well
as I think, its score might even go up. 92+ points.
2001 Claret (Foley)
Contrary to the Pride wines, above, which Foley makes, this shows
sweeter, softer and less tannic, at least at first. Its focus is
sensual lushness and velvety texture. But don't make too many
conclusions too soon, because underneath, with air, there are lots of
tannins, although they are ripe and do not interfere with the wine's
supple quality. I rather like the intensity of the 2001 Pride more,
but this has a sexy quality some will much prefer, and I think it has
the structure to cellar well. If I'm right, it gets Pride of Place,
no pun intended, but I'd like to see it prove it has the goods in the
cellar before I commit to the higher score. I'm betting it
does. 92-94 points.
1998 Cabernet (Shifflet)
It's hard to identify this as cab, but it's very pleasing. The
chocolatey note screams merlot, although it seems like chocolate
covered rhubarb at times. Its round and lush feel screams merlot,
too. It seems a bit too soft for cabernet, although I bet this showed
more intensity and berry flavors when young. Soft and balanced now,
this is a bit bland, if very pleasing. Only 120 cases, and $35, which
is pretty reasonable for Cal cab these days. Drink young, as I think
the score will go down, not up, with cellaring. 88 points.
2000 Cabernet Reserve (7)
This winery is, indeed, just called "7." It's bright
and easy, shows nice balance, but is short and simple. There's a
touch of a herbal note, but not much else for flavor. It's a
pleasing, very lively, acid driven style as it shows now, but it's
too short of stuffing. 86 points.
2000 Cabernet "Peterson Vineyard"
(Switchback Ridge)
I hear the winery greatly preferred earlier and subsequent vintages, but this wine surely can't embarrass anyone. In fact, it is very fine and downright chock full of fruit. Rich, thick, almost syrupy in the mid-palate at first, it shows opulence but also good structure, a fair hit of tannins supporting the sweet, sweet fruit. Air brings it into good balance, and it is surprising how well balanced it eventually becomes. There's a touch of licorice around the edges. Call this a fruit bomb wine that nonetheless has structure and balance. 92 points.
2001 Petite Sirah (Madrigal)
A candidate for the best wine this winery ever made (of those
I've tasted...), this PS from Madrigal puts it all together. It shows
nice texture, beautiful balance, pleasing depth, and lotsa flavor. It
opens with some oak notes, but the oak is well under control here.
There are also some bursts of brightness interrupting the
velvet-textured fruit, which careens from blueberries to
blackberries. With more air, firm supporting tannins emerge,
promising that this should age gracefully. It is charming and sensual, with
some power in reserve. The next morning finds it more elegant, but
flavorful and attractive, although the oak is a touch more prominent.
800 cases, about $35---a very good value. I might consider a
higher score--but let's see how it develops in the cellar. 92 points.
2001 Syrah Russian River Valley (Novy)
Having had some Novys previously, all of which I liked a lot, I'm a little befuddled by how this wine showed. Everyone in sight trashed it, and rightfully
so. I wondered if its candied bubblegum flavors were indicative of some carbonic maceration. Others just thought it was odd. No one wanted to waste much time with it when it sat next to real
syrahs, like Cote Rousse from L'Aigulière. Decent weight, toasty nose. Odd flavors. 82 points.
1993 Cabernet Sauvignon (Dalle Valle)
Like a lot of '93s I've run into lately, this is drinking very
well, and shows focus and well delineated. It's plenty big, though,
as it also shows gripping tannins, firm, but not terribly astringent.
There's cassis in the middle, intensity around the edges, and it
opens nicely with some air. A very nice if not quite spectacular
wine. 92 points.
1992 Syrah "Durell Vineyard" (Edmunds St. John)
I don't know that I thought that this wine would age this
gracefully, or acquire so much typicity, but it has done both. In its
youth, it was a big, deep wine, and one of my two favorite wines from
this winery. But here's an object lesson in how time and cellaring
can civilize such wines, while still leaving fresh fruit at the end
of the journey. If this were served blind with Northern Rhones, I
think no one would guess this was a California syrah. It is classic
syrah now, with bacon fat overtones and gamey notes, reminding you
more of Hermitage than of California. It has thinned, but the depth
is still good and the wine has acquired a certain elegance that is
very nice. While I don't like this incarnation quite as much as its
youthful mien, it is an impressive performance that shows just how
California syrah can get it right. 91 points.
2002 Viognier (Pride)
Sweet fruit, with oak on the edge, melds all together in a
pleasing, well balanced old for vigorous, but not ponderous, viognier.
This varietal tends to be "bigger" in the USA, mostly, and
see more oak, often too much. This wine provides a very nice balance,
tasty fruit, and nice depth for the varietal. Well done. 90 points.
1983 Port (Graham's) and 1985 Port (Graham's)
A fine tale of two Graham's portos. I was really loving the
'83 until I came to the '85. The '83 had some firmness, some clear,
bright fruit flavor, and plenty of sweetness. I enjoyed it a lot,
even as the tannins popped through. My one thought: it was rather
light. The '85 then put it to shame. The '85 seemed to double it in
weight, the best showing for this wine (as to which I've been plagued
with bottle variations due to storage, I think) in a long time.
Dense, powerful and young, the first impression was nonetheless the
amazingly sweet, jammy fruit. It was so rich....Decanted for about 3
and a half hours, it nonetheless kept changing in the glass. I was
surprised at how much structure there was underneath--there are
plenty of tannins, ensuring long life for this youthful, primary
port. I'm otherwise underwhelmed by the '85 vintage, but I think it
is certainly a wine of the vintage candidate. For the '83, 89 points.
For the '85: 95 points.
1997 Dolce (Far Niente)
Intense and heavily botrytisized, this is another Dolce
winner. It's pricey, of course and some might find Sauternes they
could like as much for less than half the price. But that's up to
you. This shows young, thick and exuberant, with beautiful intensity
and focus. Very flavorful, and should age very well. 94 points.
1994 Port (Niepoort)
This is showing just a hint of maturity, despite its
young age, and it not the sweet fruit bomb a lot of '94s seem to
be. In fact, despite showing lots of classic flavor, it is a
bit tight, even without astringency, and muted. Closing down? I think
so. We didn't give this enough decanting--or cellaring---time.
Very good, not brilliant. 89+ points.
1994 Late Harvest Riesling (Beringer)
This has always been one of the most unctuous, sweetest
wines in California. Some avoid it for supposed lack of acidity,
complaining it is too syrupy, etc. It is what it is---a full
throttle, TBA-styled wine that goes for sweetness and thickness. If
you want bright eiswein styled wines, look elsewhere. It is
unrelentingly hedonistic, unapologetically sweet and thick. Tinged
with apricots, and very concentrated, it will strike some as the most
decadent wine they've ever had. Personally, I love 'em. This, by the
way, at age 9, seems young, fresh and just released. It shows not a
hint of age. Remember that wines like this sometimes put on weight
as they age, so this is a good time to catch them, whereas sometimes
on release they lack the mid-palate depth, or at least seem to lack
such depth, they are intended to acquire. 95 points.
1989 Lafaurie-Peyraguey
This robust Sauternes shows nice botrytis touches, but also smoky
and spicy nuances. The mid-palate is opulent, the finish is gripping,
the flavors never quit. The acidity level seems rather high, and it
drives the fruit into the tongue, gently dissolving the grapes over
your palate. Rich and delectable. 93 points.
1991 Port Quinta de Vargellas (Taylor Fladgate)
This opened a bit dull and simple, but air brought it
around quickly. Well balanced, it expands in the glass, and
develops sweeter fruit flavors. Its evolution suddenly makes it a
winner, after a bland, dumb start that was kinda scary. Decant this
for an hour or two. This was served from half bottles. 89 points.
2000 Recioto della Valpolicella
Classico "BG" (Tommaso Bussola)
Soft, sensual and velvety, this dark purple wine simply
caresses the palate. There's a burst of beautiful fruit and intense
red berry flavor in the middle, and it smells of roses. Its core is
sexy and sweet. It's only off dry--not really so much of a dessert
wine as an aperitif. There aren't many interesting red off-dry wines,
though; this is one, and very different. About $35 for a 500ml
bottle. 92 points.
1997 Sauternes (Chateau Suduiraut)
Bright, with a fair share of botrytis, this is neither terribly
sweet (in perception) nor unctuous, but it manages to be so
succulent, cool and refreshing, that it is an ultimate crowd pleaser.
The oak is restrained, too, and this wine makes its way into your
good graces with some subtlety and grace, but it is delicious every
step of the way. 92 points.
1998 Riesling Botrytis Affected "(Tim Adams)
This latest visit to this Clare Valley Riesling shows
it mature now, but delectable. The color has turned a bit darker,
closer to amber than gold, and it has the slow-roasted-apricot
nuance on the finish of late harvest wine that is gently oxidizing.
Nice weight, moderate sweetness, delicious now. Drink up. 90
points.
1997 Sauternes (Chateau Coutet)
This is a bit tight now, and
despite some sweet fruit and good depth, I'd recommend cellaring it
further. It needs to open, to expand, to become a bit livelier,
whereas now it seems to be brooding, and thinking about closing down.
Oh, given the nature of Sauternes, you'll still like it just fine if
you drink now. But there's more coming. Excellent concentration
and quality of fruit. 92 points.
Germany (except dessert/sparkling)
1995 Riesling Kabinett "Graacher
Dompropst (Friedrick-Wilhelm-Gymnasium)
Lemons and acid mark this early, and
that never quite goes away. While it doesn't show any tertiary
characteristics of note, the fruit seems to have thinned some, and is
overshadowed by the acid. It's not a lost cause though, not
hardly. There is still enough fruit there, and if the wine is a bit
too intense, there's still a lot to like, especially for crispness
fans. Some might argue that this should have more cellaring, hoping
the acid comes into better balance with the fruit, but I don't see
that there is enough fruit there to make that pay off. 86
points.
1989 Riesling Auslese
"Wehlener Sonnenuhr" *** A.P. No. 2-576-562-1390 (Kerpen)
This 3 star from Kerpen is burnished and golden in color at
this point, or at least from this bottle. What shines through
immediately is how ripe and concentrated this wine is for an Auslese.
Dense, rich and opulent, it is not quite syrupy but is plenty thick.
There are nice toasted apricots nuances in flavor, some mature notes,
and a long finish. A rather decadent Auslese. I do like drinking this
now, by the way, instead of holding it, but it should hold just
fine. 94 points.
1998
Riesling Spatlese "Haardter Burgergarten" (Muller-Catoir)
Gripping acidity leads this wine off at this stage of its
development. It's VERY intense. The sweet fruit is pushed in the
background, initially. Air and warmth have it picking up weight and
the fruit shows some opulence, finally. It becomes more and more
succulent, almost spicy, and shows more viscosity, without ever
losing that intensity, and without seeming heavy. It has a great
finish, too. 93 points.
1990 Riesling Auslese "Forster Ungheurer" (Egon Muller)
This seems fairly mature and not very lively, at least at
first. It seems mineral driven, and somewhat mature, of modest depth,
a wine to think about more than get excited about, perhaps.
There is a lot of acid lurking underneath, though, and it all begins
to ooze out with time. It's only moderately sweet at this point in
its life. You gotta admire its intensity, though. 89 points.
1999
Riesling Spatlese "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
An old favorite yanked from the cellar for a "how's it
doin'" check. Answer: brilliantly. This producer's style, when
it hits, can leave you feeling exhausted because there's so much
going on. A wave of acid opens the wine, but there's just SO much
deep fruit and then the sugar rushes in to balance the acid and then
it seems to pucker your mouth and then it seems very sweet and then
it all hits your tongue at the same time and...you're amazed, but
gratified. Pure and sweet, intense and lively, this does it all. 93
points.
2000
Riesling Spatlese "Graacher Domprobst" (Selbach-Oster)
Bright, without a lot of depth and not terribly intense,
this is nonetheless interesting and charming, largely as a result of
its flavor profile, Minerals? Smokey? Petrol? Mushrooms? All of the
above? Distinctive and flavorful, this hardly seems even to be the
same varietal as the Christoffel, above. 89 points.
2002
Riesling Auslese "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
This is a wine that you can only hope will put on some
weight or develop some intensity. On the nose, it is all classic JJC,
but it shows nowhere near the depth or intensity of the last several
vintages, even, relatively easy 2000 as it showed on release, let alone the
2001, 1999, 1998 or 1997. It finishes
sweet, but not very for young Auslese, and it seems light and easy.
Some early spritziness blows off. I have seen wines put on some
weight with air and/or cellaring, but this had plenty of time and
air, and didn't expand much. The next day, it was a bit smoother, but
nothing interesting had happened. My sense is that this is and should be
the lowest rated JJC Urz Wurz Auslese in some time. 87 points.
1990 Riesling
Spatlese A.P. 3 536 014 35 91 Valckenberg Edition (Maximin Grunhaus)
This was a limited edition Valckenberg release with
"easy to read labels" in a 500ml bottle. It wasn't
necessarily anything special--and it sure isn't today. It shows
relatively little fruit, a very compact and somewhat thin style. It
is moderately heavy on acid, but only in the sense that the fruit is
no longer there to match it. It has occasional charms, but from this
bottle at least (the cork did show some problems), it too thin, too
restrained in fruit flavor and too simple to be of much interest. 83
points.
1999 Riesling Spatlese "Wawerner Herrenberger" (Dr. Fischer)
Sweet and friendly, this had a somewhat amusing lemon-lime taste that was so prominent that I had to label it "Sprite." Others voted for "7-Up," but we know Sprite is more accurate for sweeter wines, right? There was an interesting, somewhat smoky note on the end, just on the finish, and initially, perhaps a bit of petrol blowing off. I liked the presentation, but this wine at this point seemed a bit too easy and a touch simple. I'd like to see it develop more with age. 88+ points.
Italy (except dessert/sparkling)
1994 Ornellaia
I was not thrilled with this from the
first bottle I had of it, but the second shows very nicely. Not
great, perhaps, but pretty good for a so-so vintage. It opens with
decent weight and a nice, caressing mouthfeel. Air, though, helps a
lot. The fruit gets sweet and evolves, and the wine picks up a bit
more weight, too. It becomes quite enjoyable, if never quite
distinguished. It did ultimately fade a bit, but that was also some
four hours later. 88 points.
1999 Barbera d'Alba"Affinato in Carati"
(P. Scavino)
I love this producer, and I'm not a purist--a little oak often rounds
out Barbera IMHO. But this is just too much--drenched in oak,
it does have some nice, round fruit, and some air showed some relief
as it poked through--a bit. It shows great depth. BUT geez--pick
those splinters out of your mouth for the foreseeable future. It's
hard to taste much else. 84 points.
New
Zealand (except
dessert/sparkling)
1993 Cabernet/Merlot
(Goldwater)
I would imagine that in its youth,
this actually showed fairly well. At this point in its life, things
have gone a bit wrong. It shows some brick around the edges in color,
seems austere and flat. The cassis, if ever there was any, has turned
to rhubarb, and strawberry, the latter usually from of some
oxidation. Still, it wasn't so bad on opening. Medium bodied at
best, perhaps, but still with some vibrancy, it had some impact and
presence. It didn't take long for what was left of the fruit to
crack, though. 79 points.
Rhone/South/SW
France (except
dessert/sparkling)
1990 Cote Rotie (Clusel-Roch)
Drenched in that bacon fat flavor that
I've come to dislike when it is truly overpowering, as here, this
wine shows plenty of flavor--but not the right kinds. Perhaps the
problem is that the fruit is a bit light for the overwhelming waves
of animal fat. All that said, there are some things here to like. It
is otherwise and easy drinking, cool, bright and refreshing wine. If
you don't mind the flavor profile, it would be a nice luncheon
claret, if it were a claret. It lacks depth, intensity and
distinction at this point, however. 85 points.
2000 Cotes du Ventoux
"Quintessence" (Chateau Pesquié)
QPR Winner
This runs about $18, and it sure is
good value. I liked it on opening, sweet and dense. But there was
more. A beautiful tannic structure was lurking under the fruit, and
tannins popped out with air. Still more air brought everything
together several hours later. The next day, the wine was smooth and
well integrated, but perhaps a little thin. It showed not a hint of
decay, though. The red berry flavors kept poking through. Thoroughly
delicious. 90 points.
1998 Coteaux du Languedoc "Copa
Santa" (Clavel)
QPR Winner
A perennial charmer, this was a particularly good vintage
for this roughly $20 wine (it could be had cheaper on
release, but current vintages have escalated a bit). It
opens with surprising power and some considerable tannin on the
finish, but the tannins are very ripe, and air moderates them
quickly. The wine is very extracted and purple, very youthful in
appearance. Nonetheless, although is mostly primary, it is starting
to drink well and there is no problem doing so right now. In fact, if
you're holding a lot, you should start popping them as I don't see
this being a long term wine. I'd certainly think it would show best
from now to 2008, although it will survive longer. With air, it took
on a pleasingly supple quality, with sweet fruit, surrounded by
velvety texture. Very nice. 91 points.
1999 Chateauneuf du Pape (Beaucastel)
I liked the refined, elegant feel of this wine. While it
doesn't seem particularly tannic, or particularly lush, it is
focused and flavorful, and has sweet fruit, and meaty notes. It is
a bit on the compact side, like a lot of '99s compared to the
lusher 2000s or more powerful 2001s, but it I think it will
cellar well and almost always show well during its useful life. It
seemed to me to be approachable now. What it won't quite manage,
though, is to be a great Beaucastel, rather than a merely good one.
90 points.
2000 Chateauneuf du Pape (Beaucastel)
Contrasted to the very focused and precise 1999, this seems softer and
lusher, round and expressive. It is hardly a simple wine, though,
for it is plenty stuffed with fruit, which is gloriously sweet and
fragrant. While this will hold well, it should also be very
accessible young, and frankly, it didn't bother me much to sample
it now. The rounded, lush texture makes it very seductive and
appealing. There is tannin underneath, but right at the moment, the
lush fruit dominates this wine. Sensual and seductive, as well as
stuffed. I'd like to see how this develops in the cellar before
scoring it higher, but it has the potential for a better
score. 92+ points.
2001 Chateauneuf du Pape (Beaucastel)
This wine to me was almost a synthesis of the 2000 and
1999, and easily the best of the trio, showing all the stuffing,
lushness and flavor of the 2000--indeed, it seems sweeter and
richer--and all of the focus and delineation of the 1999. In fact,
it has more intensity and better structure than either. It also has
remarkable depth, a fine finish, and great texture. To me, this is
the most complete and successful Beaucastel since the 1990.
95 points.
2000 Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhones (Beaucastel)
I loved the sweet fruit in this wine, and while it had
plenty of power for Cotes du Rhone, it also showed a sappy, very
sweet middle that was very appealing. Like its big brother, it
shows some softness, and it is very approachable, despite the
feeling of power. I loved its texture and sweetness, and I
thought this was a lovely Cotes du Rhone. 90 points.
2001 Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du
Rhones (Beaucastel)
QPR Winner
Not surprisingly, considering how well the 2001 Chateauneuf shows, this
is a special Coudoulet, one of the best I've had in recent years. It
is stuffed, shows great structure, a nice backbone, and .... loads of
very sweet fruit. Gripping, powerful and deep, this is a Coudoulet
that should hold well for some fifteen years. At half the price of
the Chateauneuf, it is a super bargain. Just for one example, I liked
it better than the '99 Chateauneuf and almost as much as the 2000
Chateauneuf. 92 points.
1999 Chateauneuf du Pape "Hommage à Jacques
Perrin" (Beaucastel)
I've never had a "Hommage" that wasn't a great
wine, and this is no exception. Whether it's worth the enormous
price (this was $200 a bottle; the 2001 is much more; auction
prices for the great 1990--one of my favorite all time wines-- can
hit around $500 or so), is another question. I'd say I could be
just as happy with the 2001 Beaucastel Chateauneuf at one-fourth the price of
this, although the styles are very different. This has a certain
brooding, depth. Still, price aside, this is a super wine. What it adds over the regular
1999 is great depth and a particularly rounded, lush texture. This
wine seems almost like a jaguar preening in the sun. It doesn't do
anything flashy, but as you study it, you note that it's like a
well oiled machine. Turn the ignition, and watch it do everything
right. Underneath, there is more depth than you get at first--it
broods. This was surprisingly approachable now, but wasn't
even close to showing its stuff. Ideally, give it a few more years
of cellaring, and then, well, it should hold more or less
indefinitely. 95 points.
1999 Minervois La Livinière "Cuvée Chandelière" (Domaine
Combe Blanche)
This may not be as deep or powerful as the 1998, but if anything, the
fruit is prettier and sweeter, pure and pristine. It is in a very
young, grapey stage still, and I really liked the relentless wave of
delectable fruit. It shows some grip, too, supporting a mid-weight
body. Very nice. 89 points.
1998 Coteaux du Languedoc "Cote Rousse" (Domaine
L'Aigulière)
This winery is one of the Languedoc's stars, and is known for
several things. First, for the two specialty cuvées (Rousse and Dorée)
making big, powerful wines that need some time to unfold. Second,
making wines drenched in bacon fat, and seemingly rather bretty. All
those things apply here. On opening, this seems soft, velvety and
charming, but not quite as big as usual. However, it took nearly two
hours for this to really begin to open, and it wasn't fully there
yet. The weight deepened and tannins emerged, and this was far better
after two hours than on opening. It's approachable now, but more
cellaring would improve this. Those who like their wines pure,
pristine and fruity should look elsewhere as the gamey notes dominate
here, as they always do. 92 points.
1996 Coteaux du Languedoc "Cote Dorée" (Domaine
L'Aigulière)
The 1998 may be bigger, better and have a couple of extra layers,
but this is fully open and singing beautifully now. There's plenty of
the game and bacon, lots of maturing syrah notes, but also sweet,
expansive fruit. This actually reminded me of some '96 La Chapelle
that I had recently. This is drinking easy and well--a perfect time
to pop it. 90 points.
1990 Hermitage "Monier de la Sizeranne" (Chapoutier)
Gamey syrah notes, bacon fat everywhere, open this wine and
pretty much dominate it. It is pretty ready to roll. Although it is
dense enough, it is also open and gentle on the finish. The fruit
does seem to fade a bit on the finish, though, and I can't say this
really thrilled me. 88 points.
NV Image du Sud (Pegau-Cailloux)
This non-vintage wine is actually a collaboration between two
prestigious estates, Pegau and Cailloux, and blends a bit of juice
from the 1998 vintage of each estate into this wine. With all that,
and an original price around $20 (the price was cut dramatically in
my region...by about half...), I was looking for something
interesting. My first taste on release showed nothing but a mediocre
wine. A couple of years of cellaring has not improved it any. It
shows some game and some velvet on the texture, but it seems a bit
coarse, very simple, and has little depth. And it's not improving
with age, either. Disappointing. 84 points.
QPR Winner I give this award to wines that
demonstrate an excellent quality to price ratio. They are sometimes more
expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut
off at $15), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner, not every QPR
winner is an official Best Buy. QPR winners are simply wines that are
great values for a relatively reasonable
price.
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