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Tasting Notes
July / August, 2005

Tasting Notes Contents Page

QPR Winner   I give this award to wines that demonstrate an excellent Quality to Price Ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $20), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner,  not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy.  QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively  reasonable price. 

Alsace   Bordeaux  Burgundy  California/USA  Dessert/Sparkling
Germany   Italy  Loire   Rhone/South/SW France    Spain

Alsace (except dessert/sparkling)
1999 Gewurztraminer "Heimbourg" (Zind-Humbrecht)

Hmm. This seems almost like a different wine than the one I tasted on release a few years back. Its opening impression is far sweeter and more opulent, with little gewurz varietal characteristic showing.  As it warms up, the sweetness blows off considerably, and it seems more gewurz-y, but also more ordinary. I liked this marginally better than on first taste, when it seemed tighter and more austere, but after being opened awhile it returned more to what it gave me on its first impression. In any event, this doesn't seem to scale the heights this winery often reaches with gewurz. 90 points.

1997 "Altenberg" (Deiss)
Marked heavily by botrytis, this shows rich, fruity and a bit off dry.  The wine is mature enough now so that it has a core of fruit that seems tightly wrapped, and all of is shrouded by botrytis. Smooth and flavorful, it has a nice finish, too. 91 points.

2002 Riesling "Schlossberg" (Albert Mann)
Light and lemony, this has a modest mid-palate, and classic Riesling nuances.  The wine is a bit young, but it was hard to find anything particularly distinctive here in terms of finish, depth or intensity.  It needs another two years in the cellar to develop and integrate its parts better. 88+ points.

1998 Gewurztraminer "Hengst"Vendange Tardive (Barmes-Buecher)
Vibrant and lively, this is very focused VT that is moderately sweet, but refreshing, round but focused. It's got a nice, persistent finish, too. 92 points.

1994 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive  "Heimbourg" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Does pinot gris get much better? This is very sweet, succulent and just delicious. Yet, it is not unctuous or sloppy at all. In fact, it has a certain Mosel feel to it, seeming bright and lively, with the fruit dancing over your tongue. This is a sunny, utterly charming wine that is beautiful in all respects. 97 points.

1989 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive (Adam)
This, served from a half bottle, seemed mostly shot. That is, the wine reeked of whiskey and madeira, and was clearly not in good shape for its age. If you're wondering, there was no vineyard designation. 70 points.

1999 Gewurztraminer "Goldert" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Bright and spicy, this comes across as a very focused wine. It is off dry on the finish and gripping. Its power and focus drill the sugar that is there into your palate. While it has sugar, the main impression, however, is not of sweetness but of focus and beautiful balance. Delicious. 93 points.

1999 Gewurztraminer "Clos Windsbuhl" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Oops. What can one say? You see the other scores this winery produces so it's hard to be too hard on them. Yet, this is a disaster. The wine pours into the glass and fizzes like a Moscato. After watching for awhile, I was forced to conclude that this was a second fermentation occurring. For awhile, I rather liked it anyway, as it showed excellent gewurz-y characteristics. However, then it proceeded to show worse and worse as it aired out, with hints of whiskey nuances to go with the lychees.  This is actually still drinkable, but it's not what you want from gewurz. 75 points.

2000 Gewurztraminer "Hengst" (Paul Buecher)
Simple and soft, this has some spice and varietal character and is pleasant enough to drink on a certain level. It is easy and open. It rarely provides anything that would make one say "distinguished," though, notwithstanding that it is grand cru. The finish and depth are modest. 87 points.

2002 Gewurztraminer "Furstentum" Vielles Vignes (Albert Mann) QPR Winner
This seems to drink beautifully right now. It is bursting with flavor, intense, powerful and with a nice finish, redolent of mangoes, with lychees hiding underneath. It is vibrant and lively and shows itself as a sunny, very friendly gewurz. I'm not sure how well this will age, but it is delightful now, although not showing a ton of varietal character. 92 points.

2002 Riesling "Sommerberg" (Schoffit)
Intense and piercing, this Riesling shows fine depth and very ripe fruit. It opens big, but also bright, and the quality and depth of the fruit remains impressive throughout the evening. 92 points.

1998 Riesling "Clos Hauserer" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Golden in color, this Riesling is round and softly textured, very ripe, yet very dry. It seems burnished, in a sense. As a big, round and full as it is, its ripeness and depth give you the impression of body, but not sweetness.  This is a very fine Clos Hauserer.  If you are an acid freak, this probably won't be your pick, but the texture and depth are remarkable. 93 points.

2000 Riesling "Schlossberg" (Albert Mann)
There's a hint of off-dry fruit here, and a very floral nose. It finishes dry, but bright. The fruit is round and soft. I liked how this showed now, but it may improve yet from cellaring. 90 points.

1997 Tokay Pinot Gris "Vorbourg" Clos St. Landelin (Muré)
Remarkably sweet and succulent, this shows some focus, but lots of sugar and lots of botrytis.  It was amazing how sweet this was. Also, however, it was amazing how young it was. The fruit seemed pristine, fresh and new. This is not usually one of my favorite bottlings, but it showed very, very well. 92 points.
 

1994 Gewurztraminer "Hengst" Vendanges Tardive (Zind-Humbrecht)
This old friend is showing big and intense, and still with that special focus this bottling tends to get. It is penetrating and powerful, but also opening to the point where the gewurz varietal characteristics are more obvious than ever before. I saved a third of the bottle for the next day, and it was actually better. It was now full of black pepper and spice, and had fully opened up. A super performance from a great gewurz. 96 points.

1994 Gewurztraminer "Herrenweg" (Schleret)
This wine has seen better days. Although the color is youthful, the fruit is thinning badly, and losing flavors. There are some typical gewurz notes, like lychee aromas, but beyond that, the wine is sufficiently faded to be of little interest. Call it on the way to "cracking up." 80 points.

1997 Gewurztraminer "Bildstoecklé" (Gerard Schueller)
This wine, from a producer little known in the USA, seems sharp, youthful and pleasant, but very simple. The mid-palate is very thin, and the finish is short.
There is nothing of distinction here. 83 points.

1997 Gewurztraminer "Bildstoecklé Vendange Tardive" (Gerard Schueller)
This is the VT version of the wine above. While it is a big step up over the "regular," you can't help thinking that this VT is more like what the regular should have been. This is bone dry at this point, and the fruit seems to be drying out a bit. But the body is decently concentrated, and it has some power to go with good focus and some typical gewurz notes. If you can forget the fact that this is a VT from a good vintage, it is a nice enough wine. 88 points.

1997 Gewurztraminer "Hengst" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Spicy, peppery and intense, this shows a wine rounding into its second stage of life with class and distinction. The color is light and youthful, but the wine is no longer young. Its focus now is structure and those spicy notes maturing gewurz can get. It finishes with intensity of flavor, and perhaps a touch of tannin. For all of its intensity and relative dryness, it is not an austere wine, as the mid-palate seems round and sensually textured. 94 points.

1995 Gewurztraminer "Hengst" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Coming right next to the superb '97, above, this was a big disappointment. The color is amber, and the wine is very dry and rather austere. It retains the intensity and power of the '97, without the depth and roundness of its mid-palate, making this rather stern and forbidding. It has its good points, to be sure, but is not a particularly charming or terribly interesting Hengst. 88 points.

1990 Gewurztraminer "Kritt" (Kreydenweiss)
Off dry, and mature around the edges, this seems opulent yet soft, and a bit flat. It livens up a bit with air, and becomes a little sweeter, too. It has a certain gentle charm that made it very appealing, and as it aired out it became a little peppery, something I like to see in warming gewurz. Harmonious and pleasing, although not really distinguished. 89 points.
 

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Bordeaux (except dessert/sparkling)
1989, 1995, 1996, 1998, 1999 Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste QPR Winner 
Let's take these as a group.  The '89 has never much impressed me, and this was not a particularly good example of it. It has always seemed a bit simple and restrained, dull and straightforward. Here, it also shows some many tertiary notes, and seems well on its way to being somewhat overly mature. At its best, this has been a rather four-square wine. I suspected some heat damage, but couldn't be sure. In any event, even by the modest standards of GPL in this vintage, this bottle is somewhat disappointing.  85 points. The 1990 was also present, but clearly a damaged bottle. You can find a note on this site for the undamaged version elsewhere. The 1995 was superb. Bright, but still velvety, this delivers a big hit of acid and some tannins on the finish. It opened a bit light in weight, but fleshed out in the glass, and it needed it. I think this wine is a touch closed and is still going to improve with cellaring. The mid-palate is never going to be terribly impressive, but it is always going to be classic Bordeaux with a solid feel. 93 points.  The 1996 is another fine success for the vintage, justifying GPL's reputation as a high quality producer for modest bucks. Its bouquet is just classic Pauillac. The texture is more sensual still than with the '95. The wine is softer and seems seamless at times, but there are significant tannins on the finish. It seems young and completely primary at first, but it evolves quickly and there are some hints of tertiary notes coming out. Its beautiful nose remains pungent throughout. This is a very sexy wine. 94 points. The 1998 is a sort of oddball in this lineup, but quite delicious. It is unusually rich and opulent, with chocolately notes, round and delectable. On first taste, I think it seemed far more like St. Emilion than Pauillac, but the sweet fruit made it a winner to me. 90 points. The 1999 is a like a lot of '99s--evolving quickly, solid, albeit unspectacular. Unlike the '97s, the '99s have some mid-palate depth. While they are not reminding me of great wines, they all drink solidly and by evolving rather quickly are providing some mature wine nuances without having to wait a long time for them in the cellar. This is just beautiful for the vintage, lively, bright and refreshing. It is a bit tight and angular at times, but it opens rather quickly. 89 points.

1975 Forts de Latour
Hmmph! This was so odd in demeanor that I guessed it was a New World cab when it was served blind. The last time I had a Bordeaux show like this was '70 Petrus. That is, the wine tasted minty, and seemed to have an oak overlay that was just plain different. It makes a decent drink, though. The finish is adequate, if unremarkable. The wine has a certain soft weighty-ness to it. That is, the depth is decent, even if the tannins are largely gone. It is a bit past prime, but still worth drinking if you are inclined to like older wines on the gentler side. 85 points.

1986 Chateau Lynch Bages
This is a wine that is finally maturing, and while those who like 'em on the gentler side will want to wait longer, to me this had much to recommend it now. It shows some tertiary notes around the edges, but the mid-palate remains remarkably full-bodied. It is big, aggressive and powerful, although not as forbidding as it was several years back. It has a nice bright finish around the edges. I loved both its depth and intensity, and improved for as long as I had it. Very fine, and still capable of improving in the cellar. 95 points.

1982 Chateau Léoville Poyferré
Here is a beautifully evolving '82, in fine shape.It has a nice body and depth still, is relatively bright with lots of fruit flavor left. I loved the roundness on the texture. It still has some sweet fruit, although  the tertiary notes of earth now dominate this wine. It has a backbone still, and a nice grip on the finish. Very nice. 93 points.

1990 Chateau Léoville Las Cases
This puts it all together and still shows plenty of potential for further improvement in the cellar. It is big and rich, and the texture is utterly seductive and caressing. Yet, this is no simple, soft little fruit bomb. It has beautiful structure, shows great intensity, and a fine, long, lingering finish full of flavor. It is impeccably balanced, focused, yet seductive. Chock full of fruit, flavor and well supported, with a long finish. A super wine. 96 points.

2002 Chateau Malescot St.-Exupery QPR Winner 
Elegant up front, with gripping tannins on the finish, this wine is unready to drink, obviously. The mid-palate seems a bit flat in flavor, but it opens somewhat with air. I think this is a pretty nice wine that should develop into something appealing and elegant around 2009.  89 points.

2000 Chateau Lanessan QPR Winner 
For a futures price of $200 a case or so, you could get yourself an awfully nice wine here. It is big and powerful, lush and full bodied, with tannins underneath. It is a bit disjointed at the moment, with cherry and rhubarb notes poking out, and badly needing to integrate. If you approach this now, it needs some decanting, but it will be better in a year or three.   One of the bargains of the vintage, although not showing its best just now. It needs to settle down, and its parts need to integrate. 90 points.

2002 Chateau Gruaud Larose QPR Winner 
A huge mouthful, this Gruaud is jammed pack, dense, flavorful and bright around the edges.  It is beautifully structured, but the key point here is the remarkably sweet fruit, with hints of game and leather.  I liked this a lot and it may well be a steal, since it is available at around $30-$35.  This is surprisingly approachable now, but that probably won't last. I'd expect this to shut down. It is certainly a cellar candidate for those preferring tertiary notes rather than exuberant young fruit. 91 points.

2000 Chateau Montlisse QPR Winner 
A beautiful nose starts this charming wine off. When I first had this right on release, it was tight and flat. It is still tight, but it is evolving in the right direction, and fruit flavor is rearing its head, ever so gradually.  Its balance is impeccable, it has lovely fruit, and grip on the finish. I'm thinking that in another couple of years this will be utterly charming. 89 points.

2001 Chateau Fombrauge QPR Winner 
This is rich and opulent, with tons of flavor and great depth. Around the edges, you get some brightness and supple tannins. This wine hints of decadence, but it's not just a fruit bomb. It is going to be a lot of fun. It seemed very approachable now. 90 points.

1989 Chateau Beauséjour-Duffau
The '89 B-D has a touch of game and leather (some might say, brett), and seems very rich and opulent, with a lot of underlying power, and strawberry notes. Despite its chocolately opulence, I thought it was cabernet based, and rich enough to be New World. Wrong again, I guess. It opens well, but shows more structure and depth as it airs out. Dense, ripe and flavorful, this wine is underrated and overshadowed by its brilliant 1990 counterpart.  93 points.

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Burgundy (except dessert/sparkling)
1990 Vosne-Romanée "Hautes Maizières" (Prieuré-Roch)
A touch funky at first in the nose, this developed beautifully after it shook off some bottle slumber. It is fully alive and fully mature. There are few tannins left, and it seems a bit earthy. It actually improves with air, though, developing more intensity and more flavor. The earthiness remains, but adds some complexity. It has a respectable mid-palate, too. 89 points.

1998  Vosne-Romanée "Les Barreaux" (Anne Gros)

This opens light, hard and tight, with aggressive tannins, dried cherry notes, and little else. It really needed some air, and when it got some, it blossomed. The fruit opened, and threw off delectable raspberry notes on the nose and palate. The finish kept improving, too. Its mid-palate is relatively modest, but the wine does a lot of other things very well. I think a couple of years more in the cellar will help this out, but it is certainly approachable now. 89 points.
 

1993 Vosne-Romanée "Les Suchots" (Arlot)
Full bodied and nuanced by cherries, this opened very well, showed nice depth, and a lively finish. And went pretty much nowhere. It flattened out quickly as it aired out, and the wine became more mature by the moment, laced with herbs and forest floor. It never went away, though, retaining some power and flavor, but I couldn't help but be a bit disappointed as compared to my initial tastes. 88 points.
 

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California/USA (except dessert/sparkling)
2004 Pinot Grigio "Signature Selection" (Bianchi)
This debut release has a suggested selling price of $25, and at that level might be a bit of a stretch. Still, this is a pretty nice debut. When nicely chilled, the wine smells and tastes of melon, with hints of grass at first. It seemed very fruity early on, and at times a touch off dry. The residual sugar is only 0.06, and I didn't think it finished sweet at all, but it is round and easy. As it warms up and airs out, it is perceptibly fruity, but doesn't really seem sweet per se. It is definitely table wine territory, in a round, easygoing style, and the sugar that there is should integrate completely with even a little age. The weight of the wine may remind many more of Alsace than Italy. As it warms up, there is a touch of harshness on the end, perhaps some aggressive acidity, which wasn't particularly noticeable before. I mostly liked how this showed, in a full bodied, unoaked style, with good fruit. It is smooth, deep and succulent. 88 points.

1985 Cabernet Sauvignon Chateau Montelena
Big and full bodied, this seems remarkably powerful and robust for a Cal cab at age 20. It still has a fair amount of tannin, and the wine seems downright rich at times. It is vibrant and lively, with some hints of cassis. There was perhaps a touch of bitterness on the finish, which moderated with time.  The mid-palate depth made it seem to fill and coat the mouth. There is a touch of tar and tobacco, but not much, and otherwise there is little in the nature of obvious tertiary characteristics notable in this wine for its first hour or so. Some have claimed Montelena ages and holds, but never seems to develop. Those with that view would probably find it at least partially reinforced here. The one concession to age was that, while it held well over an evening, it did not develop much, and may have even taken a step back by the end of the night. Still, this is an awfully nice wine at age twenty. 92 points.

1980 Cabernet Sauvignon "Martha's Vineyard" (Heitz)
This opens sweet and rather charming, and with that trademark "Martha's note" of heavy mint. There is also vanilla, and it is hard to believe all the characteristics of this minty wine come just from the vineyard. It has held well, though, if you like the mint. The finish is bright, and rather mouthwatering, in fact. The fruit is showing some drying, but there is still fruit, and the minty demeanor of the wine makes it very flavorful. It is actually a rather delicious meld of ingredients, even if characteristically offbeat. 90 points.
 

1985 Cabernet Sauvignon "Georges de Latour Private Reserve" (Beaulieu Vineyard)
This opens elegant and sprightly. It is a bit on the thinner side at this point, but the fruit still has flavor and the wine has a graceful demeanor that it made it fun to drink for some time. It faded by the end of the evening, and the American oak notes took over. While it was in prime condition, though, it seemed pristine and sunny, and very pleasing. 88 points.

1985 Cabernet Sauvignon (Buehler)
There are hints of fruit, but this wine shows more tannin than anything else at this time. It has a moment when it seems to open up, but it does not maintain itself at that level very long, oxidative notes coming to dominate it. This is neither useless nor undrinkable, but it is well past prime. 83 points.

1975 Cabernet Sauvignon "Fay Vineyard" (Heitz)
Heavy oxidative notes fought with a nice chocolate nuance, and I found things to like in this at first, and for a short while. It didn't improve with air, though, even in the short term, and became earthier and more dominated by oxidation. Ultimately, I wasn't liking it much at all and it is hard to give it a better score based on a few minutes of adequacy.  79 points.

2002 Chardonnay Reserve (Fort Ross)
I don't know anything about this Sonoma producer, but I thought this was excellent. It starts off a bit oaky and leesy, but the oak is well in balance. The wine has focus and precision, notwithstanding some succulent fruit. I liked it balance, flavor and presentation. It seemed to be drinking rather well now, might be as good or better in a year. I wouldn't bet on holding it, though. 90 points.

1996 Pinot Noir "Kistler Vineyard" (Kistler)
This has been an old favorite, and now seems fully mature. It was always soft, sensual and seductive, although not really built for the long haul. It is a pleasure to drink now, but I wouldn't hold it much longer for drinking at peak. Its nose is downright sexy, fragrant, berry-scented and powerful. There is still plenty of fruit flavor here, but the wine has softened around the edges, and seems elegant and graceful. The mid-palate has thinned considerably from its youth, but is not hollow. A very sensual wine at this point in  its life, and some liked it a lot more than I did. 92 points.

1997 Pinot Noir "Kistler Vineyard" (Kistler)
This opened sharp and angular, and just needed awhile to awaken. When it did, it was superlative. There was a hit of oak up front, but it integrated quickly as the fruit woke up. The wine is powerful and well focused, shows fine depth, persistent flavor, and a beautiful finish. It is gripping on the finish, actually. I loved its structure and balance. It kept getting better every time I returned to it. 95 points.

1999 Pinot Noir "Kistler Vineyard" (Kistler)
Gorgeous black cherry fruit leads this wine off. It lacks the structure or power of the 1997, but it is bursting with flavor, graceful and harmonious. There are some bright touches around the edges, but the show here is most certainly the flavorful fruit. 93 points.

1998 Zinfandel "Howell Mountain" (Outpost)
This showed nicely for the vintage when it was released, but seems to be showing some cracks now. It is very ripe, still, and the fruit is sweet, but it no longer supports the tartness and acidity with which it is surrounded.  I suspected this would not age well, and it has not. It is still quite drinkable and some liked it more than I, but to me this is past peak and likely to show increasing problems in the future.  85 points.
 

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon "Beckstoffer/To-Kalon vineyard" (Schrader)
On release, this was a burly, and pretty good 2000, even if it sometimes seemed a bit clumsy. Age has gentled it and it now seems seamless and harmonious instead of sharp and rustic. However, there is little tannin left and the wine seems unusually soft and a bit simple for its price category. The fruit has flavor, but little backbone. It just disappears.  It is pleasant enough for the vintage, but undistinguished for its price range. 88 points.

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Dessert/Sparkling

2001 Riesling Eiswein "Mussbacher Eselshaut" (Muller-Catoir)
Just beautiful. This gorgeous eiswein is very sweet, and picks up weight in the glass. It shows both botrytis and grip on the finish. It's never cloying, despite its richness. It seems relatively lively, and it is definitely chock full of flavor. It sneaks up on you, in a sense. There's clearly more here than your tongue perceives on first taste. And, of course, you just want more when it is all gone. Damn those silly little half bottles. 94 points.

2001 Riesling Eiswein "Zeltinger Himmelreich" (Selbach-Oster)

Sprightly and sunny, this is a much more restrained Eiswein than the Muller-Catoir, above. It is not as perceptibly sweet or unctuous, but it does dance lightly across the palate. It is entertaining and charming. 91 points.
 

1998 Chardonnay #7 Trockenbeerenauslese "Welschriesling" "Nouvelle Vague" (Kracher)
Succulent apricots lead this off, ad the sugary, unctuous wine is syrupy on the finish, but a little more intense in the mid-palate.  Chardonnay this rich is something to be seen to be believed. Flavorful and exotic, it lingers on the palate. 94 points.

1990 Sauternes (Chateau Guiraud)
Loaded with caramels and botrytis, this wine is is on the leaner side, but very intense and powerful. It has a lively air to it, and a nice core of mid-palate fruit that prevents it from being all structure. For those who like them on the more unctuous, rounder side, this is not your wine. 90 points.

1989 Sauternes (Chateau Lafaurie Peyraguey)

Like the Guiraud, above, this has a certain restraint to it, not much in the way of something sweet and unctuous, but then this wine goes off in a different direction and the result here is a rounder, softer wine. There is enough botrytis to notice, but it doesn't quite scream out at you in the same way. Nor is this as bright, as lively or penetrating. It does, however, have a lovely texture, a round, caressing mouthfeel, and perfect harmony of its parts. The whole is pleasing, if not terribly distinctive. 89 points.

1998 Mélange à Trois (Navarro)
This seems rather past prime, alas. It is overly mature, just a bit off dry, and rather flat and simple. There is, true, some acidity left on the finish, but there is little fruit left to counterbalance it. This was best consumed on release, in short.  80 points.

1988 Riesling Beerenauslese "Mulheimer Helenkloster" (Richter)
Amber in color, this shows drying fruit, with those notes of mature, dried apricots mature stickies get.  The fruit is a little too dried out here, though, and there isn't much that is delectable left,either by way of fruit or sweetness, which isn't quite how I want my BAs. Over the hill. 80 points.

2000 Monastrell Dolce (Olivares)
I wasn't as thrilled with this the first time I had it, but this time it shows beautifully, probably because I had time to let it air out more. It needed it and rewarded the aeration. It reminds me a little of the Ca Togni, with velvet and floral, rose petal notes. It is very sweet on the finish, and simply delicious. Yet, it has structure and even tannins, and the more it aired out, the better it got, until finally the finish was actually gripping as well as sweet. Very nice. 94 points.

1989 Gewurztraminer Selection des Grains Nobles (Beyer)
Pleasant enough as a wine, as a SGN, this is simple and modest, and the fruit seems to be fading in general. It has a modest focus, but little length on the finish. 87 points.

2003 Gewurztraminer Beerenauslese "Frei-Laubersheimer Fels" (Bernhard)
There is a modest unctuous note in the mid-palate and some pleasing flavors, but this is rather compact and simple for a BA, and if anything, an underperformer. It drinks well now, though. 88 points.

1989 Sparkling Gewurztraminer (Navarro)
Toasty and yeasty, this mature sparkler is a big surprise. Who else but Navarro could do this? It seems in fine shape and shows very well, finishing well after a nice, full bodied attack. A lot of fun, but not just a curiosity. 90 points.

1997 Sauternes (Suduiraut)
While this seems a bit compact, so I can't annoint it as great Sauternes, it is in good form, and showing well. It does a lot of things right. It has a sharp, piercing attack, excellent flavor, focus and power. The new oak still needs some time to integrate, but it should. There is no harm pulling this now, though. 90 points.
 

2004 Late Harvest Chardonnay (Wolffer)
There's a touch of unctuousness in the mid-palate of this Long Island stickie, but as sweet and dessert-y as this is, its claim to fame is charm. It simply is debonair, elegant, delectable, and bright around the edges. Some will complain that it is not thick enough, compared to a BA.  I do find late harvest chards to be on the more elegant side vis-a-vis varietals like Riesling. That's life, in any event. This just exudes charm, and is thick enough and sweet enough to be a real dessert wine at the same time. Drink in the short term. 90 points.

1995 Alzero (Quintarelli)
While not perhaps a true dessert wine, and rather dry,  this is usually preceded by the descriptor "port-like" and is really, really expensive, running around $300 a bottle. Plus, Quintarelli is an object of veneration, one of the few cult producers outside of Tuscany and Piemonte. Yet, this left me totally cold. Mostly cabernet franc, it shows exactly like cool climate cab franc, with lots of herbal, green, bell pepper notes, that often made me think "vegetal." It was hard to get past those flavors and aromas, which were all quite powerful, more than a nuance. One person said, "Chinon on steroids." I silently amended that to "Chinon in a very cool vintage when the fruit does not fully ripen on steroids." There are some nice things about the wine, including some rose petal notes, but they are overwhelmed. It seems a bit hot, too. I guess I don't get what the fuss is about. 86 points.

1995 Vin Santo (Felsina)
Vin Santo--a name for a wine so many have destroyed with miserable, oxidized crap not even suitable for dipping biscotti. This is how it should be. Burnished in color, showing almonds and pain grillé notes,  this is beautifully focused, yet ripe and opulent, and delectably sweet. Compared to the most luscious Vin Santos, this is a touch reserved, but there's plenty of everything here, and it's impossible to dislike this carefully crafted wine. 94 points.

2003 Recioto della Valpolicella "BG" (Bussola)
There aren't many red dessert wines I like, but this is surely one of them. Absolutely delectable, tinged with violets and roses, this is sweet, but focused, with a fine core of soft, velvety fruit. The texture and nose are terrific. 94 points.
 

2001 Quarts de Chaume (Pierre Bise)
Succulent and refreshing, this has a bit of a smokey nose, and seems lively and sunny, to go with its opulent demeanor. Far more restrained than the 1997 on this page, it should expand and develop nicely in the cellar. Delicious.  91 points.

1997 Quarts de Chaume (Pierre Bise)
Darker in color than its youthful, 2001 counterpart, this is also thicker, richer, sweeter, more syrupy, and longer on the finish. Tinged with apricot nuances, it is lush, ripe and drips fruit. The sweetness is very pronounced, and the wine just coats your mouth with delicious flavors. From one of the Loire's fine (and great value) producers, this is just gorgeous. This shows not a hint of decline, and seems pristine, fresh and youthful. 95 points.

2002 Muscat Ottonel Trockenbeerenauslese #2 (Kracher)
This is only the #2!  Yet it is extremely sweet, with hints of mint, and some sharpness on the end. It has fine, powerful aromatics, and a very compact, focused feel despite its sweetness. I'm not sure I'd recognize this as Muscat if served blind, but the pungent aromatics, which perhaps are even a touch funky, certainly announce the presence of something a bit different. Very fine. 93 points.

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Germany (except dessert/sparkling)
1998 Riesling Auslese * "Wehlener Sonnenuhr" (Kerpen)
This is a friendly puppy at the moment. It is showing some mature notes, now, and I couldn't call it "young," any more. Nonetheless, it is fresh and lively, showing good acidity, and a fine meld of acid and fruit. It is relatively dry for a one-star Auslese. It seems charming rather than profound, though, and while very good, it isn't quite the distinguished beast for which one might hope. 92 points.

1998 Riesling Spatlese "Haardter Burgergarten" (Muller-Catoir)
Minerals, petrol, mineral, petrol, diesel, fruit, petrol. In those portions, not necessarily that order. It seems hard to find fruit flavor in this wine. It seems to have good weight, but the fruit is overwhelmed by the diesel notes, and the wine's fruit just seems angular and overwhelmed at times. It is very dry. There was debate as to whether this wine was closed down hard. You hope so--because this is an uninspiring performance from a wine that should be very good, based on my last taste of it. At the moment, I can only say, 87 points.
 

1998 Riesling Spatlese *** "Niersteiner Paterberg" (Strub)
This great value producer makes a dirt cheap three star. Granted, it is not quite the most profound wine you are likely to stumble upon, but it does everything very well. It has impeccable balance--the harmony of the components is remarkable. It seems wide open at the moment, alternating between bright and sweet. At first, it went a bit tart and lemony on the finish, demonstrating its power, but it evolved beautifully and came into perfect balance. It became even a little exuberant--and very friendly, although not quite as lush as the Kerpen, above. Very nice. 93 points.

2000 Riesling Spatlese "Rudesheimer  Berg Schlossberg" (Leitz)
I've loved this fine off-vintage performance from release, but I do think it is a wine to drink in the shorter term than normal. Tonight's performance is a case in point. As time goes on, it does show some of the flaws of the vintage. It still has fine balance, fine acidity, and fruit. But there is a touch of hollowness, perhaps, beginning to show here, and it's perhaps a bit short on the finish. Still, this is drinking very well. In my opinion it needs drinking in the short term, so go for it. 89 points.

2003 Muskateller Auslese "Ihringer Winklerberg" (Dr. Heger)
Very sweet at first, it just seems like the type of wine where the sugar will blow off and integrate quickly. It does; taste it in 2007, and you'll wonder why I said it was sweet. The nose is pungent, and there are also hints of disel that blow off rather quickly. It is of modest weight, and finish, pleasant, but not particularly distinctive. The nose is its best feature. 87 points.
 

1989 Riesling Auslese "Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube" (Nahe State Domain)
Round and burnished, smooth and mouthcoating, this off-dry wine shows very well. It has a gentle charm to it, but the weight and flavor prevent it from being dull or boring. There's enough acid to make it a little lively on the finish. Its components end up balancing beautifully. It is mature, but still in its prime, even while showing some tertiary nuances. Everything here is in harmony. 91 points.

1990 Riesling Kabinett "Wiltinger Schlangengraben" A.P. 3.529.290.19.91(St. Urbans-Hof)
This wine, which I understand was re-released by the winery, is showing some cracks. It is aggressive and persistent, but a bit shrill, tart and too lemony. It's hard to find the fruit, which seems not to be holding up to the structure. There's a bit of a petrol, smokey note, too. On the whole, this seems a bit unbalanced in acidity at this point in its life. 82 points.

1993 Riesling Spatlese "Koberner Weisenberg" (von Schleinitz)
Almost buttery up front, this round, mature wine has a soft, velvety texture. It is off dry, not perceptibly very sweet, but fruity. It is enlivened by a crisp finish that is an interesting counterpart to the texture. Interesting, as well as enjoyable. 89 points.

1997 Riesling Auslese "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
This opens sweet, having thrown off its earlier, austere demeanor that I saw in my last few tastes of this. It has opened up! As the wine airs out, its structure re-emerges, and the acid on the finish becomes more prominent. The respectably concentrated mid-palate fruit is delectable and luscious, and well supported by its structural components. The finish lingers, with that trademark meld of acid and sugar that I love from German Riesling. 93 points.  

2003 Riesling Spatlese Haardter Herrenletten" (Muller-Catoir)
Smokey and tinged with some petrol notes, this fat Spatlese showed sweet, easy and round. It seemed to be a wine of its vintage in many respects in that the impression was fat fruit, and not much perceptible acidity.  There were pleasing nuances of apple around the edges and a certain rich, lush feel to this. Those who prefer racy acidity won't find it here, but there's plenty here to like. I would like to see this develop some in the cellar before I rate it higher, though. 89+ points.

2000 Spatlese "Graacher Domprobst" (Selbach-Oster)
For a 2000, a vintage that produced fast maturing wines with a certain shortness and hollowness, this is one of the best examples of a Spatlese. It opens with a bit of diesel on the nose, but also surprising hints of power, gripping acidity. There is sugar on the finish, intermingling with the acid nicely. As the wine airs out, the finish does seem a bit shorter, and the wine seems a bit more simple, or it would have gotten an even better score, but this is nonetheless an extremely attractive 2000 that is drinking well and can hold still. 90 points.

2002 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Trocken "Durkheimer Abtsfronhof" (Fitz-Ritter) QPR Winner
Here's a good case in point as to why the great gewurz comes from Alsace and generally nowhere else. Despite a few exceptions, the others just seem to get to a certain point and go no farther. This is a thoroughly pleasant wine, dry but fruity, thus avoiding the bitterness that dry gewurz can often get. The floral bouquet is lovely. It has a certain focused, piercing intensity to it. Yet, it doesn't say "gewurz" very loudly, and the compact mid-palate falls short, as does the finish, ultimately, making it a relatively simple quaffer, albeit at least a very inexpensive one. 87 points.

2003 Gewurztraminer "Burgergarten Alte Reben" (Weegmuller)
This property, bordering Muller-Catoir in the Pfalz, does scream gewurz, projecting heavy lychee note aromas and flavors. This couldn't be anything but gewurz. The wine seems fully open and expansive, even a little mature, which is a bit disturbing for a 2003. At the moment, and for the short term, it is drinking beautifully. 88 points.

1990 Spatlese "Freinsheimr Goldberg" (Lingenfelder)
I was worried about this when it opened, as it seemed to show the potential for considerable and quick decay. I got some oxidative notes on the nose, and the palate was largely shut down. I think it was just a bit too cold. As it warmed up, it developed nicely, showing more flavor, touches of fruitiness, and a decent mid-palate. Still, this seems to dry out a bit on the finish, and while it drank well ultimately, I do think it needs to be drunk. Another few years may seem some problems that warmth and aeration won't solve. 88 points.

1990 Spatlese "Haardter Herrenletten" (Muller-Catoir)
Lovely. It finishes with a touch of sugar, but the mid-palate seems mature, and ripe. It is big enough in body to be full bodied, almost oily in texture, and it develops more and more flavor with air. It shows a few notes of maturity, but remains focused, gentle and full in the mid-palate. This is a prime time wine at the moment. Drink and enjoy. 93 points.

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Italy (except dessert/sparkling)
1998 Barbera Braida ai Suma (Bologna)
After being totally unimpressed with the 1997 version, I was prepared to diss this Barbera with delusions of grandeur, but I found myself liking it quite a lot. The fruit was sweet and delicious, there was lively acidity around the edges, and the fruit flavor lingered on the finish. The mid-palate is modest in depth, but the silky texture seemed to support the delectable fruit extremely well. A lot of fun. Not your traditional Barbera, to be sure. 93 points.

1974 Barolo Riserva (Rocche dei Manzoni--Valentino)
Despite its power on the finish, showing tannins never resolved, this wine is well past prime. The color is browning and it is dominated by oxidative notes. The balance here was questionable in its youth, I suspect, for there is little fruit left, but lots of tannin and acidity. It seems overbearing and charmless and on my scorecard, has few redeeming virtues. This is a classic example of an unbalanced, old style Barolo--thirty years later, the fruit is gone, but the tannins are still aggressive. There never was a moment here when this was going to work out. 79 points.

1979 Barolo (Rocche dei Manzoni--Valentino)
This is thinning significantly in the mid-palate, but it is graceful and elegant, not quite yet hollow.  It has pleasing notes of dried strawberries with touches of almonds. The color is light. This is a pleasing drink that with the right food accompaniment should show very well. I do think it needs to be drunk. 87 points.

1982 Barolo Riserva  (Rocche dei Manzoni--Valentino)
Powerfully constructed, this has a gripping, and very bright finish and lots of depth.  It is tight and somewhat charmless, but also topped with a bouquet redolent of stewed prunes. I was in the minority in disliking this wine, but I sure did, and still do, rather hating its funky nose. It certainly has other admirable features. 87 points.

1990 Barolo (Bartolo Mascarello)
Full bodied, with plenty of everything, this is a super 1990 that I liked a lot. There are still tannins on the finish, plus some sharpness wrapping itself around the core of beautiful fruit. The fruit took some time to open, and evolved consistently, showing more and more flavor.  This has power, but also some lushness, albeit in the context of a beautifully balanced whole that has shards of acidity, too. Very fine. 95 points.

1998 Barolo (Bartolo Mascarello)
If the 1990 is a structured wine with great fruit, this initially seems the reverse--a wine with the fruit very forward, even grapey, and the structure an afterthought. It opens almost with a chocolately note. The fruit is ripe, almost opulent at first, and dripping in flavor. As the wine airs out, it acquires some normalcy, i.e., tannins come out, the power becomes apparent. It has the structure to support the fruit, and a nice finish, too. 93 points.

1989 Barolo "Ornato" (Pio Cesare)
Elegant and charming, this has nice weight, good focus, and a friendly, cherry-nuanced demeanor. It has good supporting acidity, too. Its friendly demeanor is mitigated a bit by the big tannin hit on the end as it airs out. While this is not as deep or as complex as some on this page, it has a certain charm, and openness to it that makes it a pleasure to drink. 90 points.

1990 Barolo "Bussia" (Prunotto)
Succulent and rich, this has a textured opulence to it that I rather liked a lot. It sports a fair amount of structure, too, but I particularly liked the caressing texture of the mid-palate. The fruit is flavorful and delectable, too, and it finishes bright and refreshing. 93 points.

1990 Barbaresco "Bricco Asili" (Ceretto)
Powerful and almost decadent in its initial opulence, this sports great depth of fruit, velvet on the texture and flavor. The wine is not a fruit bomb, though. To the contrary, there are plenty of tannins here, and it has a backbone that is more apparent with every moment of aeration. It is intense and gripping on the finish. 95 points.

1990 Barolo "Vigna del Gris" (Conterno Fantino)
Focused, a bit austere and very bright, this shows a lot of power but not always enough fruit to balance it. The acidity level seems a bit too high, too. Still, it never goes overboard and has a certain if limited appeal. 89 points.

1997 Barolo "Vigna del Gris" (Conterno Fantino)
The bouquet is pungent, redolent of almonds. It's the wine's most prominent feature, I think. After that, there are lots of tannins, a fair bit of oak, and rather tight, closed fruit, that seems flat and dumb. I think this wine is in an awkward stage, and seems more disjointed than it will be in four or five years. For now, I could only say 90+ points, but I think this will improve a bit.

1990 Barolo "Sori Vigna Rionda Riserva" (Massolino)
The nose speaks of a mature wine, but that references only the fruit, which I don't think is keeping up with the tannins. The wine preens with pure power otherwise, a lot of acid, and a lot of astringency on the finish. To me, this had very questionable balance,  and I wouldn't be so optimistic that it would come around. 88 points.

1996 Barolo "Margheria" (Massolino)
Another Massolino that didn't do a whole lot for me. It seemed soft around the edges, the fruit dull in flavor, the general demeanor restrained and reticent. This could be a touch closed down, but I'm thinking that this is not going to be a stunning Barolo at any point in its life. It seems a bit simple and straightforward, although it has decent depth and structure. 89 points.

1993 Barolo "Bric del Fiasc" (Scavino)
Soft and simple, this just sort of fell off the table. Not that it was bad, really. It actually improved a bit, with air, I thought. But it had no staying power, no intensity, a short finish. It just seemed a lot less like Barolo and a lot more like generic Nebbiolo. Drink up. Served from magnum. 85 points.

1996 Barolo "Bric del Fiasc" (Scavino)
Let's say this sparked a bit of controversy. It is rather disjointed at the moment, showing off too much oak, but I think there is a lot here to like. Ripe and rich, the fruit throws off opulent chocolately nuances and tons of flavor. There is still structure to support the wine, in the form of supple tannins and bright acidity on the finish. I think this is at an awkward stage--like every 1996 here--but with decanting approachable. What it really needs is another 2-3 years of cellaring.  91 points.

1996 Barbaresco "Asili Riserva" (Giacosa)
Perhaps it is not a coincidence that this is another 1996 that seems disjointed and at an awkward stage. Despite being double decanted, it shows tight, disjointed, and hard to deal with. It is unquestionably a huge mouthful of wine, with tannins to match. It is well delineated and refined, too, but just too...damned...young. 95+ points.

1997 Barbaresco "Asili" (Giacosa)
Rich, opulent and fruity, this struck me as a polar opposite of the Riserva 96 above. At times it seemed almost voluptuous, the ripe fruit well textured and deep. But there's a lot of power underneath, too, if you have time to wait on it. I thought this was simply delicious. I liked this a lot when it was poured. I liked it more and more with each passing moment. There is a certain hedonistic quality to this that is very appealing. 96 points.

1989 Barolo "Brunate" (Vietti)
Big and bright, this has lotsa tannins, and some sweet cherry flavors. As it airs out, though, the development is not positive, and the mid-palate thins precipitously. The color is light, and the ultimate demeanor is austere.  If this is a typical bottle, it disappointed. 89 points.

1990 Barolo "Bricco Rocche" (Ceretto)
Full bodied and deep, this has a sumptuous feel to it on opening, with delicate red berry notes lingering around the finish. With air, its tannins come out and its acidity and tannins grip the palate. It becomes somewhat astringent on the finish, and the hard tannins aren't always helpful. There's a lot of good stuff going on here, though, and the quality of the fruit is superb. 93 points.

1999 Montevetrano (Imparato)
This is a blend of Cabernet (60%), Merlot (30%) and Aglianico. The fruit is big and sweet, laced with a bit rhubarb. There's a nice shard of acid on the finish, along with some tannins. The wine is very bright--perhaps too much so--but the succulent fruit is lashed into your palate as a result. It is a touch herbal, and a touch eccentric. Everyone will note the acidity levels, whether appreciated or not. 91 points.

1997 Montiano (Falesco)
A bretty nose starts this off, and the wine didn't improve from there. I've heard a lot of different reports on this wine, but it was disappointing how sharp and thin this was. It reminded me more of an inexpensive Cotes du Rhone than a $50 Bordeaux-styled varietal wine. There is some flavor here, and the wine is not necessarily bad, but simple and easy, and as I said, more reminiscent of Cotes du Rhone than premium Merlot. It made everyone unhappy. Some insist they have had better bottles of this, but this is what we had this night.  87 points.

1998 Montiano (Falesco)
This is a bigger mouthful than the 1997, as least as this back-to-back showed. There's nice supporting acidity, and decent weight. The finish is moderatly sweet, tinged with cherries. This is a very pleasing wine, but it seems simple and straightforward, and a bit lacking in depth. I expected more. 89 points.

2001 Campoleone (Lamborghini)
Beautifully structured, this has everything in place. Although there are tannins on the finish, and a supporting backbone, as the wine evolves with air, it evokes a certain seamless quality. It expands with air, too, putting on weight and developing flavor. Well focused, tight and finely crafted, this is not at peak yet, but should be in a few years. 93 points.

1998 Paleo (Le Macchiole)
This wine, 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, is smooth and sunny, with acid on the finish, and nice flavors. It is medium bodied, with a nice mid-palate depth, refreshing and a pleasure to drink. 90 points.

1990 Le Pergole Torte (Monte Vertine)
This gives the impression of great depth, but it seems dominated by its structural components at this point. The acid rather overwhelms the fruit, and when you can find the fruit, it seems very mature--not dead, but tertiary and then some. I disliked the balance on this wine at this point, and had the sense that the fruit was not going to live as long as some of the aggressive structural components on the wine. 88 points.

1997 Sancta Catharina (Dei)
Drinking beautifully now, this Super Tuscan is fully open, and expansive. This is a great time to pop a cork. It is full of flavor, and elegantly wrought, finishing with a bright, succulent finish. The mid-palate has thinned a touch, but it manages to gain weight with air, so this has not given up the ghost, nor is it planning to do so. Still, i feel this will not improve much if at all. It is just a question of when you can get to them at this point. Charming, gentle, and graceful, this drinks great now. 90 points.

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Loire (except dessert/sparkling)
2002 Cour-Cheverny "Cuvée Renaissance" Vendanges Manuelles (Le Petit Chambord)
This is an acid freak wine, very intense and very bright. It is downright mouthwatering. The good news is that there is fruit to go with the acid here, even if it is a bit subdued under the onslaught. As the wine warms up and airs out, it is in fact nice to note that it is not so austere as originally thought, and there is nice fruit underneath the initial wave of acidity. It should be given a few years of cellaring, to see what happens. 89+ points.

1996 Vouvray "Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1ère Trie" (Le Haut Lieu--Huet)
This opens dull and restrained, brooding and silent. There was acid lurking underneath, but pure power seemed to be the order of the day. There was some sugar on the back end, and then...austerity. A day later, this blossomed, and got better and better. The finish was bright and full of fruit, the acidity making you almost drool with the flavor. For all of the acid content, it was round and ripe, as well as focused and intense. A beautiful wine. I couldn't finish it all by the way and adopted one of my favorite tactics of freezing the remaining wine. It showed beautifully after freezing for two weeks, too! 96 points.

1997 Vouvray "Clos du Bourg Moelleux 1ère Trie" (Le Haut Lieu--Huet)
I liked this way better than the '96 on opening, as it was lush and sensual, more open and sweeter. Yet, as easy as this showed, it had a development almost as remarkable as the '96 did, and the next day, it showed more power, more acid than I thought it had. While this seems opulent at first, there is a lot going on here structurally, and it is easy to be fooled by how this wine shows in this very youthful stage of its development. 94 points.
 

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Rhone/South/Southwest France (except dessert/sparkling)
1989, 1990, 1994, 1995, 1998, 1999, 2000, and 2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Hommage à Perrin" (Beaucastel)
Let's take this remarkable group of wines together, which together comprise every vintage of this specialty cuvée ever made, or at least currently released. What a remarkable group of utterly stunning wines it is, too. The 1989 is my flight winner for the time being, one of the most remarkable wines I've ever had. In time, it may be challenged by the 98, or 01 and better bottles of the 90 have often equaled or surpassed it, but today 1989 and for the foreseeable future, the 1989 is the winner. Not only a great wine, but the best bottle of it that I have ever had. (My last note gave it a mere 98+ points.)  Incredibly dense, packed with sweet fruit, sappy and youthful in the mid-palate, this drips flavor, but is hardly a fruit bomb. It is brilliantly structured, and with air, more tannins come out as it shows off its backbone. The finish is simply remarkable in its length and persistence. It is so youthful it seems like a barrel sample. The best bottle of it I have ever had, too.  100 points.  The 1990 has shown better, including very recently. However, it is still remarkably sweet, sexy and lush, and simply irresistible. The 1989 is better structured, but usually these two run neck-and-neck, and I've usually liked the '90 better. Still, if this is an "off" bottle, 95 points is still pretty impressive. The 1994  is another big mouthful, tannic, sweet and powerful, and also showing some brooding notes. It lacks the sensuality of the '90, or the pure concentration of the '89, but it is a very nice and still young wine in a more difficult vintage. Still, as fine as this was, it lagged in the group. In any other grouping, it would've shone. Tasting these with each other is misleading in a way. We should have some lousy way to remind us what mediocre CdP is.  94 points.  The 1995 is the sunny wine of the group, lively and bright, sweet and charming. It is dense in the mid-palate and long on the finish, but its tight, compact focus and lively acidity give it a certain elegance and good cheer.  A lot of fun, and no slouch. 96 points.  The 1998 is another candidate for perfection. Incredibly sweet, it is so seemingly young, it is simply impossible to believe that it seven years old. If I just said that the 1989 seemed like a barrel sample, this makes a liar of me. THIS is the barrel sample, grapey, primary, delectably sweet, with tannins lurking underneath. I think this wine is gaining some focus and becoming a bit tight, but some air made it expand.  98 points. The 1999 is relatively compact and restrained for this group. It is sweet and elegant, with a nice mid-palate. It is hard to get excited by the 1999 after the brilliant wines in this grouping, but it is certainly fine wine. 94 points. The 2000 is back in form, marked by remarkably sweet fruit, and soft tannins. As it shows today, this is a hedonist of the group, something sensual, sexy and alluring, but it doesn't seem to have quite the structure of '89, or '98. Still, many will sell their Mother the Brooklyn Bridge for a chance to drink this sexpot of a wine. 98 points. If I had another pick for the flight winner, it would have been the unevolved 2001.  This is so opulent, the fruit is so sweet and pure, so sappy, that it seemed to me like purée of Chateauneuf. This has a remarkable future ahead of it, and the wine is only hinting at the greatness it will attain. And here I go with this barrel sample thing again. Again, the wine makes a liar of me. This one is the barrel sample, or so it seems. It has to be, doesn't it? How can it be so pure, grapey and sweet, so dense and unevolved? This even goes the '00 one better for pure hedonism and sex appeal, but I think the structure is better here than on the '00. Relatively speaking. 100 points.

1969, 1978, 1979, 1981, 1982, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1994, 1995, 1998, 1999, and 2000 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaucastel)
Also tasted before the Hommage vertical, above, was a vertical of every good vintage "regular" Rouge from Beaucastel in the twenty-five years or so (although the 2001 wound up corked), plus quite a few other vintages. "Regular," is a poor choice of words, as they were great. But for the corked 2001 (not reviewed at this time, but there are other notes on the website) and the throw-in, somewhat tired 1969, they all had something of interest to offer, including mature, modest vintages.   The 1969 still showed fierce tannins on the finish, but its fruit was significantly oxidized. The nose gave off sweet notes, but more from oxidation than lively fruit. The acid is too dominant, as the fruit is cracking up a bit and no longer balances it. For all of that, there is still something here worth drinking, although just barely. In this great vertical, though, it was hard to care much. 78 points.  The vertical began in earnest with the 1978, a wine I've loved in the past far more and once considered nearly perfect. Still, it shows healthy and vigorous today, with an excellent finish, and bright, sweet, succulent fruit. Its balance is impeccable. If this bottle didn't thrill me as much as one once did, it is still very fine, and not much CdP gets to age 27 in this fine condition. 92 points. The 1979 was to me the biggest surprise of this vertical. It simply seemed, well, fabulous, young and powerful, deep and sweet, coating your mouth, and seeming full and opulent. There are still tannins on the finish and this wine ends bright, with some intensity. It seems in its prime, with touches of smokey notes. 94 points.  The 1981 is another super wine, and unlike the '78 and '79, this is not underrated by any means. It has always struck me as a very gamey, bretty wine, but the richness, power and focused opulence on the wine is simply remarkable. It is plenty stinky, and the brett averse will have less appreciation for it. In fact, my first encounter with an even brettier bottle had me turning up my nose and dissing the wine. But get beyond that.  The mid-palate is concentrated,  and the wine broods, still aggressive and intense. It expands and improves with air, and the finish is super. 95 points. The 1982 is pleasant, but straightforward, showing lots of game, very light color, and thinning fruit. It is holding on, and avoids the epithet "dying," but just barely. In truth, it is a tribute to the winemaking that it is still a pleasant drink from this vintage at this point in time. But it's not much more than that. 83 points. The 1985 showed a nice mid-palate, and mature, tertiary notes. The fruit seems to be drying, though, and I think this needs drinking sooner rather than later. It still does drink well, though. 87 points. The 1986 is pretty tasty, another surprising entrant.  It shows a touch of oxidation, and some mature tertiary notes, but there is depth in the mid-palate and a lot of power on the finish. I'm a little surprised that I wound up liking the muscular '86 over the 85, but that's the way it seemed today. 88 points. The 1987 is another wine I'd expect to be more or less dead given its age and the vintage, but it was actually a pleasant little drink, admittedly thin, admittedly badly in need of drinking, and admittedly totally overshadowed by the great wines in this vertical--but not dead, and tasty. The color is very light, and the wine clearly has little life left. The acidity is beginning to dominate it, but the fruit still has flavor and is hanging on, if by its fingertips. Foursquare, but pleasant.  82 points. The 1989 is up a few levels, needless to say. It shows great texture, velvety and soft, with beautifully sweet fruit underneath. It remarkably dense and concentrated, and is simply stuffed. This seemed a bit tight at times. Noting the perfect "Hommage," 1989 was a standout year for Beaucastel.  95 points. The 1990 is another stunning wine. Served from magnum, it provides fodder for an argument as to which of the dynamic duo, 89/90, you like better. In the long run, I think you have to give a slight nod to the 1989 for its structure. It will surely live longer. But, with the advantage of being served from magnum, I liked this 1990 better on this day. This is just glorious. Served from magnum, which no doubt makes it show younger, it is unbelievably sweet for a fifteen year old wine, exuberant and youthful, sappy in the mid-palate, a pure exercise in hedonism. I am in the odd position of actually liking this 1990 regular a little better than the Hommage '90 served a few minutes later, but that's way it came out on this day. If served blind, I would have assumed it was a Hommage.  97 points.  Onto the 1994. This was a step back, which was almost a good thing, as the quality level of the "regular" Beaus was becoming surreal.  I was pleased by how this showed, as there is plenty of sweet fruit in the middle, an easy-going feel in the mid-palate, and tannins on the finish for some verve. It is very appealing at the moment, and its wide open, expansive demeanor makes it a good pick to open now. 91 points.  The 1995 is just charming, sweet and sunny, with a nice, focused feel, although it does not give the impression of  great depth, perhaps because it just seems so lively and refreshing. 92 points. The 1998 is another monumental wine. Forgive me if I run out of adjectives. This seems to be opening again after a somewhat dull period. It is remarkably dense, concentrated and, well, just plain packed. Flavor is reappearing on it, and it looks like a Beau legend in the making. 95+ points. The 1999 is  a compact Beau that is actually drinking fairly well now. On its own, it is a lovely wine, but compared to some of the giants on this page, it shows little to impress, seeming restrained and compact.  Still, drink it on its own, and it is quite nice. 89 points. Finally, given that the 01 was corked, we come to the 2000, the best bottle of this that I have seen yet, an indicator that this is maturing in a very positive fashion. Sappy sweet, it is texturally soft and elegant, gorgeous and hedonistic. Beaucastel doesn't produce many fruit bombs, but this is one of them. There are touches of game on the finish for complexity. Just gorgeous, and better than I originally thought it was. 96 points. A great performance from a truly great winery.

1986, 1995, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 and 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc "Vielles Vignes" (Beaucastel)
This vertical of the Beau blancs was impressive, too.  The 1986 was holding well. It was focused and compact compared to the younger wines, with some piercing acidity, but the delicious fruit was still lively and alive. Very enjoyable, and more so than I anticipated. 90 points. The 1995 is a big, creamy mouthful, with power and acid on the end. As it aired and softened, it became more elegant. This is a wine that manages to be charming, full bodied and opulent at the same time. 93 points.  The 1999 was utterly delicious, nicely focused, soft and charming. It seems a bit muted at this stage of its development, though, showing grace and elegance, but not much flash or flavor. I suspect this is going into a shell, so wait a few years before coming back to it. 94+ points. The 2000 was an odd duck, although its eccentricity will be adored by many. It seems amazingly fresh and refreshing, and it is tinged with boatloads of tropical fruits, mango, pineapple, and some pear. It is very intense, even if its flavors seem a bit pronounced and odd on the finish.  I think this is about to enter an odd stage, too, so my recommendation would be to drink it right now--or wait five to seven years. There's a lot going on here, and while I didn't always love it today, I think it's a big winner in the future. 95 points.  The 2001 is simply gorgeous, showing beautiful balance, an intense, lingering finish and a lush mid-palate. The fruit here is remarkably rich and opul