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Tasting Notes
May/June, 2010

Tasting Notes Contents Page

QPR Winner   I give this award to wines that demonstrate an excellent Quality to Price Ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $20), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner,  not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy.  QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively  reasonable price. 

Alsace Austria Bordeaux Burgundy Calif/USA  Dessert/Sparkling Germany  Italy  Rhone/S/SW France

Alsace (except dessert/sparkling)
1997 Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive "Cuvée de la 3ème Millenaire" (Schleret)
Thirteen years on, this is aging quite nicely. Admittedly, I don't like it quite as much as I did a few years back, but it is still exceptional. It also seems young and pristine, without a hint of decay. The varietal character is still strong, throwing off lychees and black pepper as it warms, with that underlying rich texture and off-dry demeanor. Focused and distinctive, it is a lovely gewurz. 93 points.

1995 Pinot Gris "Rotenberg Vendange Tardive" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Pristine, if thinning a bit, this has beautifully integrated its sugar now, but seems fresh, bright, young and pristine. Beautifully balanced, while certainly off-dry, it is a luscious wine with penetration and focus. 94 points.

Austria (except dessert/sparkling)

2008 Rosé Messwein (Stift Goettweig)
The "messwein" or "mass wine" comes from the fact that this is a produced by a Benedictine monastery, and cannot be produced without the Bishop's approval. Low in alcohol (under 12%), this wine, made from Pinot Noir, seems nonetheless more of a white wine in style, with barely a blush and crisp acidity, but little flavor and not a lot of fruit. Taking it for what it is--one of the pinks that leans to the white wine side of the spectrum in weight and style--it is quite pleasant and refreshing, but it will not fulfill the function of many pinks, namely to hold up well in summer situations where a red might have otherwise been chosen. With that caveat, it is quite charming. 85 points.

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Bordeaux (except dessert/sparkling)

1995 "Prestige" (Chateau Tayac)
This is Tayac's upper level bottling from Cotes de Bourg, built for the long haul, at least in structure. Every time I come back to this, I can't help thinking that it is an old-fashioned wine, lean, austere and rather rustic, but it has its charms, namely, brightness and penetration, and considerable intensity and power. There is some question on its balance. The tannins are aggressive and hard, while the fruit and aromatics have shown tertiary notes for a long while now. A bit weedy and earthy, with more tannin than fruit and no fresh fruit flavor, this is nonetheless useful and and still worth drinking in the right setting, although at this point it perhaps reminds me more of old style Barolo than Bordeaux. It does drink better the next day, when it seems gripping and crisp, still a bit rustic, but not quite as forbidding. Realistically speaking, it needs to be held to let the tannins resolve a bit more, but I'm not sure how much fruit will be left when that happens. Pick your poison. 87 points.

1982 Forts de Latour
This has always been one of my favorite second wines, and it was a great find in the vintage. It is probably a little less than what it was at peak, but it is still a beautiful wine that remains relatively rich, but has acquired an earthy character. Laced with tertiary aromatics, it is bright and evolved, having acquired a certain silky elegance. It lingers on the finish. 91 points.

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Burgundy (except dessert/sparkling)

1999 Givry "Clos du Cellier Aux Moines" (Joblot)

This old friend was one of my favorite Burgundy values, and it has aged gracefully. Silky now, elegant and more graceful, it still opens with powerful aromatics. Sweet up front, it develops some character with air. Its bright, elegant feel makes it a pleasure to drink, and it is more persistent, at age 11, than it seems at first attack, when it is a little underwhelming, all aromatics, no intensity. It is a pleasure to drink. 90 points.

1999 Meursault "Rougeot" (Coche-Dury)
A bit smokey at the outset and mouthpuckeringly high in acidity, this rather disjointed wine seems poorly balanced and unimpressive for its pedigree. If this is a typical bottle--it came from a dedicated fanatic and customer of the estate, but I haven't had it in a long, long while--it has not aged very well, and is not terribly interesting to drink at this time. 85 points.

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California/USA (except dessert/sparkling)
2001 Zinfandel "Pagani Ranch" (Ridge)

This has Ridge's signature in a lot of ways--drenched with that sweet vanilla and licorice oaky overlays, it has also aged quite gracefully, showing young and and in prime time despite its age, a time when many Zins are in decline. The alcohol (15.4%) shows a bit here as the wine airs out, particularly on Day 2, and the fruit fades, but considering how long it took to get to that point, it is hard to complain too much. This has good focus, intensity and tannins, and in some respects is very impressive. The oak overlay, though, is thoroughly distracting in terms of both flavor and aromatics. 89 points.

2003 "Hard Core" (Core Wine)
This may be the wine that convinced me Core could be a force to be reckoned with. The beautiful structure that first got my attention has served this well, as it is perfectly preserved, still young and holding brilliantly. Indeed, after a little aeration the tannins pop out and provide considerable intensity still. The mid-palate is elegant, but not thin, and the wine is perfectly balanced. This still has some years to go.  91 points.

2009 Viognier "Estate" (Clos LaChance)
The screwcapped Viognier (with little bits of other white Rhone grapes) comes in at $22, modest for a small production wine (698 cases), but I'm not convinced by this wine.  Aged and fermented in old oak, it seemed fruity enough, but a bit lacking in the elegance and aromatics that sought after Viogniers get.  There was a trace of bitterness on the finish in its youth, but while that blew off, it always seemed a bit harsh, with the alcohol noticeable, even as the mid-palate thinned. The finish was modest. 84 points.

2004 Syrah "Keltie" (Pax)
An early touch of oak, dissolves into the whole, which, despite a 15%+ alcohol level, seems actually rather restrained and elegant. Once past the "wake up" stage, this seems quite gracefully, relatively speaking, with good focus and delicate but persistent flavors, with a touch of roasted herb and coffee bean. I did think towards the end of the time I  had it open, I noticed a little alcohol--which was disappointing, since it seemed to hold up so well earlier, despite the numbers. It did not destroy the whole, but it did make me want to be more cautious in evaluation. 91 points.

2005 "Venus" (Pax)
A touch of lanolin,  a touch of caramel, started and ended this wine, which seems to have seen its best days. While it is hardly dead, the fruit seems to be thinning, and the caramel and lanolin, attributes I often find go with a little age and oxidation, predominate. If this is really the white Rhone imitator it purports to be, perhaps it will revive, but for my money--drink this now. 87 points.

2007 Pinot Noir "Biagini Vinyeard" (Clos LaChance)
This small production Pinot (470 cases, $50) has the mid-palate elegance true Pinot lovers usually demand, that ethereal feel. After an hour or so of air, it seemed a bit thinner, but the aromatics were lovely. Matched up with roast beef, it seemed simply thin rather than elegant, with the finish a bit short. All that said, it is a Central Coast wine, that is, the fruit is sweet and ripe and there are those powerful aromatics--and a fair hit of alcohol. Its otherwise elegant demeanor was a little disturbed by the heady nature of the wine, a little harsh at times on the finish. Even while remaining concerned about the alcohol, I have to admit that it grew on me after some aeration, as it was simply delicious. I do not think it has the mid-palate concentration and persistence to age well, but it drinks nicely now and should show well in the short term. 88 points.

2008 Chardonnay "Liebeler Vineyard" (Clos LaChance)
Another in the recent waves of samples received from this small winery...this single vineyard Chard (231 cases, $35), unfined and unfiltered, was aged on the less, and spent 10 months in 40% new French oak. As between the two Chards here, I had a slight preference for this one. Its lees influences were powerful, and there was a notable hit of oak, but seemed more penetrating and a little deeper, if not quite as evolved as its sibling, the Biagini, below.  It opens nicely as time goes on. 88 points.

2008 Chardonnay "Biagini Vineyard" (Clos LaChance)

This single vineyard Chard (279 cases, $35), unfined and unfiltered, was aged on the lees and spent 13 months in 40% new French oak. Evolved and creamy, with a hit of sweet oak up front, this nonetheless has some steel underneath and some brightness, making it quite pleasing as it airs out. It does thin and the finish is modest, but it is a wine with some considerable charm. 87 points.

2005 "The Petition" (Sine Qua Non)
Big, heavy, clumsy and hot, this wine was simply not interesting to drink. It had some depth and some finish, I'll give it that. But the burn detracted from its good points and it always seemed ponderous and stolid. I couldn't deal with more than the first few sips. When served, there was great anticipation, but frankly, it had one fan and most were not interested in a second glass. 85 points.

2005 Chardonnay "Stone Flat" (Kistler)
Fairly oaky and creamy, this has lots of caramel at this point, but not as much obvious fruit. Creamy and pleasant, but not as distinguished as I'd hoped, it is perhaps true that I am becoming more and more churlish towards oaked whites. They really need to have the stuffing to make it work. I would not hold this a lot longer. It shows no obvious decay, but the fruit does seem to be thinning. 89 points.

2006 Chardonnay "Kistler Vineyard" (Kistler)
This has a considerable hit of oak, but I liked how the fruit emerged from underneath the oak, and it has fine depth as well, even as it ages gradually. This seems rather elegant as it airs, a pleasing chard with a sometimes annoying oak overlay, but a lot of good points, too. 91 points.

2009 Trousseau Gris (Wind Gap)
This interesting, off-the-beaten path wine shows rather well. There is considerable acidity up front, a mouth puckering note, some pear nuances, and a broad, expansive palate. There is not a lot of depth, so drink this young. It does seem like a refreshing summer weight wine. 85 points.

2005 Pinot Noir "Over and Out" (Sine Qua Non)
I always rather liked SQN's Pinots, combining, as they did, elegant mid-palate weight, and good aromatics and flavors. This is ripe and aromatic, although the mid-palate seems to have thinned. It is quite charming and elegant, with lingering flavors on the finish. 89 points.

2001 "Lytton Springs" (Ridge)
This lovely blend (76% Zinfandel, most of the rest Petite Sirah) is just entering the second phase of its life, more sedate, more harmonious, gentler, and perhaps heading towards Bordeaux, but not quite there yet. That may occur in another decade. At the moment, though, this beautifully balanced wine is a pleasure to drink, the oak integrating and the fruit still pure, the tannins moderate and ripe. 90 points.

2003 Zinfandel "Dogtown Vineyard" (Turley)
On my last taste, this disappointed a bit, and I can't say the flaws--largely the alcohol--were any better this time. Still, it is worth pointing out how lovely the fruit is here, luscious and sweet. It is a wine that impresses mightily at first, and everyone loved it. At first. Flash forward an hour or more, and suddenly the alcohol seems all too noticeable. There is a bit of a burn going down. I checked the label, and it was hardly a surprise that it was at 16.8%. It became harder and harder to drink, harsher and harsher on the finish. It's a shame, because this has many merits. But the alcohol is just a bit out of control. 88 points.

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Dessert/Sparkling
2004 Brut Rosé "Beacon Hill" (Soter)
This lovely sparkler is gentle and elegant, crisp, with persistent flavors on the finish. Quite charming, it may lack true distinction and toast, but it is holding well and tastes simply delicious. 89 points.

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Germany (except dessert/sparkling)

2002 Riesling Spatlese "Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg" (Schloss Schoenborn)
Classic, and just the way I like 'em, this Spatlese has a brilliant mix of acid and sugar, mingling together and integrating, complementing each other perfectly, creating a harmonious whole that nonetheless has some intensity and focus, along with being utterly delicious. The finish lingers as well. It is aging beautifully and still seems young. 91 points.

2005 Riesling Auslese "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
This Urz Wurz is elegantly constructed, but rather tight and a little closed. Some air does it a lot of good, revealing its structure and its acidity, both hidden initially. It is not a particularly sweet Auslese, but there is some sugar on the first hit. This is too young to drink at the moment; it should be more interesting in 5+ years. 91 points.

2008 Riesling Auslese "Platinum" (Peter Mertes)
Pleasant enough as Riesling, this dry-ish Auslese is wholly uninspiring as an Auslese, with little intensity, lushness or weight. Correct and proper, if undistinguished, it is usually well priced. 86 points.

2001 Riesling Spatlese "Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg" (Leitz)
In absolutely perfect condition and drinking quite nicely, this Spatlese is rich, youthful and sweet, yet very crisp, with lemony notes popping up on the finish as it airs out. Full and luscious, this has not yet entered a mature stage, merely having rounded into form and become relatively harmonious. 91 points.

2006 Riesling Spatlese "Norheimer Kirschheck" (Donnhoff)
Relatively rich and sweet for this bottling, this has a big burst of flavor, seeming luscious and a little piquant after some air. It doesn't quite have the tension I see in other years, but it is sexy, lush and delicious. 91 points.

2001 Riesling Kabinett "Trittenheimer Apotheke" (Ansgar Clusserath)
This charming Kabinett is off-dry and gentle, the acidity mingling beautifully with the fruit and sugar. At age 9, it is youthful and shows not a trace of decay, indicating its age, perhaps, only by its harmony. It does become a little funky on the nose as time goes on, and I liked it a bit less as a result, but it is largely graceful and pleasing. 87 points.
 

2001 Riesling QbA (Maximin Grunhaus / Von Schubert)
There is not a lot of intensity here, particularly at first, but this impressive QbA is pristine and perfect, showing not a hint of its age. Indeed, it improves with aeration, and keeps getting better, turning into something sweet on the finish, if a little thin in the mid-palate and perhaps a bit short. Delicate as it is, it is delicious and in perfect balance, a fine statement for a QbA at this age. 88 points.

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Italy (except dessert/sparkling)
2004 Kerner "Praepositus" (Abbazia di Novacella)
Opening with a touch of grass, this lovely Kerner has aged beautifully, seeming gentle and harmonious, deep and persistent, if thinning a bit with age. About the only criticism I could make here is that it did flatten out a bit with air. 89 points.

1999 Barolo "Pi Vigne" (Silvio Grasso)
This, usually the lower level Barolo here, shows quite beautifully in this vintage, rich and bright, mouth coating and full, with a certain crispness on the finish. It is drinking rather well now, but should continue to hold for some time. 90 points.

1999 Lupicaia (Castello del Terriccio)
This has a rich start, but it thins--or perhaps less pejoratively--comes into balance and sorts itself out rather quickly. I think it has lost some depth over the years, but it is quite lovely, showing a touch of roasted herb after some funk on the nose, that blew off. This is quite approachable now, and actually drank pretty well. I'm not sure I found it to be as exceptional as I had hoped. 91 points.
 

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Rhone/South/SW France (except dessert/sparkling)
1989 Hermitage (Chave)
I haven't seen this tour de force '89 in awhile, and it seems to me to be coming along just beautifully. It took a good 30-45 minutes just to wake up, and suddenly it came alive. Bright and silky, laced with gamey notes, it dribbled over the palate and lingered, the acidity and texture creating a sensual and full flavored feel. 94 points.

1994 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaucastel)
This wasn't always the most successful vintage in Chateauneuf, but I've always liked the Beaucastel. It opens fast now, rather evolved and intensely flavorful, gamey and earthy. The mid-palate has thinned a bit, but it is still seems to have plenty of life left in it. Charming and full of character and complexity, it is a pleasure to drink now. 90 points.

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 QPR Winner I give this award to wines that are particularly good values, even if well beyond bargain wine pricing. They are not "best buys," which I define as under $20 wines. Every Best Buy is a QPR winner, but the reverse is not true.  Note: wines tasted at trade shows and the like generally will be displayed with ranges, as it is more difficult to get a good read on a wine in those conditions.  Also, many notes on the E-Zine often come from food and wine events, rather than classic, controlled conditions.

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