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Tasting Notes
May/June, 2006

Tasting Notes Contents Page

QPR Winner   I give this award to wines that demonstrate an excellent Quality to Price Ratio. They are sometimes more expensive than the wines featured in my Best Buys section (which is cut off at $20), so while every Best Buy is also a QPR Winner,  not every QPR winner is an official Best Buy.  QPR winners are simply wines that are great values for a relatively  reasonable price. 

Alsace Bordeaux  Burgundy Calif/USA  Dessert/Sparkling 
Germany  Italy  Loire  Rhone/South/SW France  Spain  

Alsace (except dessert/sparkling)
1983 Riesling Vendange Tardive "Frederic Emile" (Trimbach)
Just off-dry, this is fresh and ripe, seemingly youthful for its initial presentation. I really loved this for awhile, as it showed great richness and ripeness in a balanced presentation. With more air, though, some flaws popped up, and the alcohol seemed to show as the fruit seemed to fade a bit. Still, drink fast and you'll be happy. 92 points.

1994 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive "Clos Windsbuhl" (Zind-Humbrecht)
Over the years, this has simply been one of the finest Pinot Gris that I have had. It is developing beautifully. With age, its parts have integrated, and it shows a considerable harmony now, although with that harmony a certain exuberance is lost. The wine still shows fine depth and richness, although it has focus and some restraint, too. The sugar has moderated on the end, although it is still perceptibly sweet. It has surprisingly good acidity and impeccable balance, along with a sensual texture. 96 points.

1999 Pinot Gris "Brand" (Boxler)
Sweet on the finish, elegant in the mid-palate, this seems delicate at the outset, cool and refreshing at other times. It gains a little weight with air, and the sugar provides a sweet finish. It is pleasing and friendly, but I'm not sure it was distinctive and "grand cru." 89 points.

1997 Riesling "Turckheim" (Zind-Humbrecht)
This seemed fully mature, perhaps a bit past prime, at first, but the wine shook off the bottle slumber and actually performed rather well. It is bright and steely, dry and persistent. It is rather light and lively. The style is crisp and elegant at this point. 87 points.

1998 Riesling "Schlossberg Cuvée L'Inédit" (Weinbach)
This special, irregular bottling from Weinbach is always something fine, and it shows tremendous power. A few years ago, when I last rated it, it was tight and closed, and admittedly I underrated it. Mea culpa. This time, it shows brilliantly, although it has not hit peak. It is remarkable in its intensity and focus, finishing sweet, and gradually expanding in the glass and on the tongue. It becomes friendlier with air, and is drinkable now, without the problems I had four or five years back. 96 points. 

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Bordeaux (except dessert/sparkling)
2001 Clos l'Eglise

This Pomerol is coming along beautifully.  It shows some power, depth and intensity,  opens slowly and expands gracefully. Tightly wound, it impresses with its structure as well as its increasingly flavorful fruit. This needs a few more years, but is accessible now, and its focus and intensity is impressive and attention getting. Very nice,  and I think it will yet improve in the cellar. 94 points.

1989 Chateau Pichon Baron
Progressing slowly, this seems like a perfect way to make a modern wine. It is smooth and suave, with a cool feeling, but sweet fruit. The texture is soft. The wine is approachable and quite drinkable, there are no harsh and forbidding tannins. Yet, it is holding perfectly, seems hardly to be budging and opens very slowly, showing it has more years of life in the cellar yet for graceful aging. It is a complete wine, increasingly well integrated, and very tasty. When it fully opens, it should be better still. 94 points.

1997 Chateau Pichon Lalande
Grapey and pulpy, this seems young and very New World-ish at first. The initial impression is of sweet fruit, with little structure, making this a very fruit forward wine. With air, it developed some annoying green streaks that marred its one good thing, the simple, if tasty, fruit.  For its vintage, it shows pretty well, but it's not a wine to buy unless at the right price. 88 points.

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Burgundy (except dessert/sparkling)
1913 Chambertin (Jules Régnier)
This wine is big and powerful. One can only imagine how charmless and tannic it must have been in its youth. What's left? Well, the wine still has something to offer, fine depth and intensity. It actually improved in the glass. What was hard to find was much fruit flavor, rendering it a bit monolithic and stolid. It was relatively clean, though, without significant defects or evidence of decay. There were times when I rather liked this, although ultimately it seemed more like a parlor trick than a wine I truly wanted to drink. 86 points.

1915 Nuits St. Georges "Les Cailles" (Morin Père et fils)
This wine seems to be the polar opposite of the Chambertin, above. While the Chambertin is deep and intense, this is open and charming. The Chambertin projects relatively little fruit flavor, but this is sweet and quite tasty. Its nose was slightly oxidized, but the palate was fine, and showed nice flavor. There are some tannins evident here and there, but this is a presentation with good balance, neither soft and formless, nor stolid and monolithic. The bottle was open for four hours before being tasted. 88 points.

2000 Meursault-Narvaux (D'Auvenay)
Elegant, with persistent flavors, this shows nice acidity, some lees notes and a fine, lingering finish. It is on the lighter side, but there is a lot going on here, a wine I would call complex (an overused word).  It turns to steel with air and shows pure and clean. 93 points.

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California/USA (except dessert/sparkling)
1998 Cabernet Sauvignon "Napa" (Clos du Val)  QPR Winner 
This continues to be a surprising wine. Over the last couple of years, it opens weedy and seeming to be badly in need of drinking. While there is truth to that, it is interesting to watch this wine pick itself up off of the floor, and assert itself, developing tannins and intensity. The fruit does, perhaps, have a touch of oxidation, but it develops a bit of flavor with a little air, too. I disliked this in the first 10 minutes. I was liking it a lot more over the next hour. It does, to be sure, taste older than it is--if it were Bordeaux, you might be guessing early '80s. Still, there is merit here still, despite a tough vintage, a low price level and increasing age. 87 points.

2001 Pinot Noir "Marcassin Vineyard" (Marcassin)
Rich and perfumed with violets, this has succulent black cherry notes, some lively acidity on the finish, and simply delicious fruit. It is supple, with just enough intensity, rich, but not particularly heavy. I would have to say that this is my favorite vintage of this bottling thus far. 95 points.

1998 Cabernet Sauvignon "Eisele Vineyard" (Araujo)
This is an excellent performance for this vintage. The wine shows sweet fruit and a touch of mint from oak, I think. The parts are balancing well, and it seems pretty much ready to drink, though young and fresh. Those '98s that I have disliked have seemed disjointed, harsh and devoid of charm. Not so here. It manages to have a mid-palate, taste and flavor, and is holding well. It may not be the best Araujo, but it is pretty good. How much longer to hold it? It shows no sign of decline or age, but I would worry about this wine as a long termer, and wonder whether the mid-palate will thin too much.  I'd drink it over the next five years or so to be safe. 92 points.

1994 Chardonnay "Cuvée Cathleen" (Kistler)
I haven't had this since 1997, but my old note then declared this to be at peak. It is perhaps not surprising, then, that this wine shows so poorly now. There is a bit of madeira on the nose, and the wine seems to show evidence of cracking up, some oxidative notes, some bitterness. It still has surprisingly good weight, but the flavor nuances, from decline, are not particularly appealing, and nobody really was too enthused about drinking this. 80 points.

1998 Chardonnay "Cuvée Cathleen" (Kistler)
Not, perhaps, the best vintage in the world, this should have been drunk young. It is laden with oaky notes, butterscotch, caramel and not much else. Oh, it doesn't taste bad, but clearly the fruit is fading, and overwhelmed by other components on the wine. The finish is a bit on the bitter side, and not terribly appealing. This has seen better days, I think. 87 points.

2004 Chardonnay "Ritchie" (Aubert)
This has nice weight, fine balance, and excellent acidity. As it airs out, there is a touch of steel on the finish, which is superb, penetrating and long. Medium bodied, this will drink well on the young side, and I think should be a mid-term wine. 92 points.

The Rhys, Alcina and Alesia wines below were tasted together.

2004 Pinot Noir "Sonoma Coast" (Alesia)
The wines here under the new Rhys and Alesia labels are from the same winery and winemaker. "Alesia" simply denotes that the wines are purchased fruit. Rhys is obviously attempting to fight against the "new wave" Pinot Noir style, representing high alcohol and big everything. The model is more Burgundian, higher acid, a lighter weight, more elegance. On the whole, I would say that the wines are pointed in the right direction considering the winemaker's goals, but they are also a work in progress.  They generally show nice aromatics, and a certain silkiness deriving from higher acidity and less concentration of the mid-palate. There were times when the old joke that "elegance" cannot be a euphemism for "thin," came to mind, however.  That was most so here, with this Sonoma Coast bottling.  It opens with delicate, but rather attractive raspberry notes on the bouquet. It is lively and bright, and it is hard not to use the word "elegant." The acidity gives it an aggressive attack, but it improves and comes into balance after a couple of hours at the table. What is missing is anything resembling a mid-palate. Elegant is one thing, but this seems just a bit lacking, notwithstanding its good points. As time wore on and the wine harmonized, the flavors became attractive, but the finish shortened as well and it seemed rather simple. 84 points.

2004 Pinot Noir "Sonatera Vineyard" (Alesia)
This is a step up from the Sonoma Coast. The aromatics are by far the best part, and I just loved smelling the wine,  more than drinking it. It has a bit more depth than the Sonoma Coast, and more intensity. The finish is longer and it has a nice first attack. Like the Sonoma Coast, this won't win any prizes for depth and the mid-palate is a bit shy, but it doesn't seem quite as jarring here. There is a certain ethereal and sensual air to the wine from its bouquet and texture that made it quite pleasurable, and won it some fans. If nobody was quite thrilled with it, many enjoyed it, including me, as its aromatics are sexy and compelling. It certainly feels more like Burgundy than California Pinot Noir.  Drink on the young side. Anticipated price around $40 including shipping from the winery..   87 points.

2004 Pinot Noir "Santa Cruz Mountains--Alpine Vineyard" (Rhys)
With the first taste of the Rhys wines after the Alesia, the thought occurred to me that at last there was a mid-palate evident, and someone else said virtually the same.  This is not quite as aromatic as the Sonatera at this juncture, but it shows better depth, although no one would confuse it with a big wine (which no doubt makes the winemaker happy).  It has fine, cherry-nuanced flavor, and there are tiny bursts of acidity to enliven it. With air, the structure becomes more apparent.  This grew on me with time and I think it was my favorite in this lineup for its gentle demeanor, and tasty fruit.  Anticipated price around $50 including shipping from the winery. 89 points.

2004 Pinot Noir "San Francisco Bay--Family Farm Vineyard" (Rhys)
Of the four Pinots from this winery, this seems the biggest and burliest out of the gate, although everything is relative and the tannins are relatively soft. The mid-palate on the Rhys Alpine might be as deep, or deeper, but the Alpine is not as aggressive. This also seems to be more open than the Alpine Vineyard bottling, not as sensual in texture, nor as aromatic, but emitting persistent flavors. The aromatic pleasure was not quite as great here as with the other wines.  There were moments when I liked this a lot, and others when I thought it was not quite as deft as the Alpine or Sonatera in any respect, nor as interesting. It would, however,  be the one that least surprises me if I reevaluated it upwards with a couple of years of cellaring.  It's brand new. I will be interested to see what happens to it in a year or two. Anticipated price around $50 including shipping from the winery.  88+ points.

2004 Syrah "Chileno Valley" (Alesia)
On the whole, I thought this winery's Syrahs were not quite as successful as the Pinot Noirs. There was that odd note on the nose again, and again I was guessing reduction. The fruit became sweet, though, and the mid-weight wine is very approachable despite its youth at first. The reductive note, if that's what it was, blew off quickly with some air and shouldn't be an issue. With air, however, a certain harshness overtook it, and it became rather disjointed, intense at times, but not necessarily in a good way. The acidity levels sometimes seemed a bit more than I wanted. This will undoubtedly integrate its parts better with some cellaring, and it needs the cellaring more than the Pinot Noirs, but I am not sure I like the balance here as much as on the Pinot Noirs. This needs to develop well in the cellar to become really attractive. 86+ points.

2003 Syrah "Sonoma Coast" (Alesia)
Smooth, cool and refreshing, this also seems to have a trace of reduction on the nose, which blew off quickly. It is bright and friendly and softens nicely with air. It is rather supple, and seems already to drink fairly well, although a year or so more in the cellar wouldn't hurt it.  This has a certain charm, but also seems simple and basic, lacking both the depth and potential of the Chileno Valley bottling, above. 85 points.

1996 Syrah "Bien Nacido" (Ojai)
Very disappointing, this Syrah seems to be cracking a bit. The gamey notes are over the top, and no longer absorbed by the fruit, which seems to be fading. The wine maintains good depth, but little else. It was frankly unpleasant to drink at this juncture. 83 points.

2003 Syrah "Gabrielli Vineyard" (Alcina)
Sweet fruit, with some caramel notes start this off, but some tartness on the finish ends it. The wine seems a bit simple and a bit conflicted, and I'm not sure the parts are ever coming together. 85 points.

2004 Pinot Noir "Russian River Valley" (Alcina)
Reasonably full in the mid-palate, this is bright but disjointed, showing lots of acid, which breaks over the palate in big shards. There is, however, also very nice black cherry fruit, which means this might have a fighting chance to come together. The finish at the moment is rather harsh and a bit offputting. I did think the fruit here was very good, though, and I would expect this to be more attractive in two to three years. 86 points.

1984 "Cardinale" (Kendall-Jackson)
Very mature, this opens showing some oxidation, and bottle mustiness. The fruit has thinned considerably.  To its credit, this wine did gather itself, and it showed something of interest, a little brightness around the edges, a better integrated mid-palate. When all was said and done, it still seemed past prime, and needing to be drunk. 84 points.

1997 Cabernet Sauvignon "Folkendt Vineyard" (Steven Kent)
This opens supple, and sweet, with notes of cassis, and lots of vanilla-nuanced oak. With air, some herbal notes popped up, which this wine really needed for some character and distinctiveness. This was rather gentle and charming at times. The next day, it thinned, but drank fairly well, but for the increasing intrusiveness of the oaky notes that the thinning fruit could no longer absorb. This had its good points. A little more finesse with the oak would have helped a lot. 88 points.

1992 Cabernet Sauvignon "Diamond Mountain" (Von Strasser)
Pure and intense, this is lean and focused, powerful and vigorous. Although in a leaner style, there is still fine fruit here with lovely and classic flavors.  The wine has a certain precise feel to it.  The gripping finish is superb. 92 points.

1997 "Andrus Reserve" (Pine Ridge)
Sweet and focused, cool and refreshing, this impeccably balanced wine is maturing gracefully. Though still youthful, it seems more or less ready to drink to me. Persistent and classic cab flavors follow onto the palate, and there is just a touch of intensity left on the finish. This is in many respects the polar opposite of the powerful Von Strasser, above, but each succeeds in its own way. This is a bit on the "too mellow" side at times, though. 91 points.

2001 "Albino" (Sine Qua Non)
Layers of vanilla and oak lead this off. The mid-palate is rich, and there is still discernible fruit underneath, but it was hard to get past the oak. There seemed to be a touch of heat on the wine as well, and it certainly showed disjointed. The quality of the mid-palate saved the wine, but it was something less than I hoped for. 89 points.

2005 Sauvignon Blanc "Napa" (Two Wives)
This is a new offering from two wives who husbands are in the wine industry, and this is the second vintage. For Sauv Blanc fans, well, this couldn't be anything else. It is very aromatic, with heavy grass notes on the nose. It is very pungent, varietally true, and then some. Compared to last year's offering, it seems even bigger and more viscous, full bodied and very flavorful. There, some typical Sauv Blanc fans may get off the boat. This is a wine that has some acidity, but is clearly going for the Big Wine statement, thick and rich, exuberant and very fruity. It is, of course, quite young. Ultimately, I rather liked this, and it would seem churlish not to. The richness is a little odd from this varietal in a table wine, but it tasted great and everyone found it very pleasing. If you demand Sancerre, this won't be it, but I suspect a lot of folks will just flip over this. A little more, and it might be over the top. As it is, it is a lot of fun. 90 points.

2004 Chenin Blanc (Paumanok)
I didn't like how this Long Island wine opened, but it developed beautifully. It is rather light, but bright and pleasing, with a cool, refreshing finish, and increasing typicity with air. It is on the steely side, and the flavors are muted, but it gains distinction and flavor with some air.  Rather nice, and a good summer wine with some nice crispness. 88 points.

1996 Chardonnay "Cuvée Cathleen" (Kistler)
Creamy, with plenty of oak in evidence, this shows some power, too, with air, great fruit and depth. The finish is beautiful, persistent and long. There were moments when I wanted to rate this really highly, but the oak did seem a bit intrusive, more than was necessary or welcome. Still, there is a lot of class to admire here. 93 points.

2001 Chardonnay "Three Sisters" (Marcassin)
There's a touch of oak up front, a bit of cream. It is fully ready to drink, in a medium bodied, relatively gentle and charming style. There is nothing here that immediately creates a "wow" or anything close to it, but the more you drink it, the more charming it seems. It does seem a bit simple at times.  I would not age this very long. 90 points.

2001 Chardonnay "Marcassin Vineyard" (Marcassin)
A complete contrast from the "Three Sisters," above, this is focused, steely and powerful. There are stones and pebbles in the nose, and a dry, gripping finish. The wine evolves beautifully with air, gaining some weight, but never losing its precision. The oak is perfectly integrated. This would be fun to stick in a double blind lineup of white Burgs. It is an interesting wine that can still improve with cellaring. 94 points.

1997 Chardonnay "Lorenzo" (Marcassin)
Very oaky, this has a rich mid-palate, and some welcome acidity to cut the cream and oak. There is some spice on the finish. I do have a sense that the fruit is being subsumed a bit by other elements of the wine at this point, particularly the oak, and would recommend drinking this. It doesn't otherwise show signs of decline. 89 points.

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Dessert/Sparkling
2001 Vin Doux Natural Rasteau (Beaurenard)
This rarely seen dessert wine is in a relatively soft style. It is 17% alcohol and 100% Grenache. It is just delicious, although I would consume it early, even though it does have some tannins on the end. It has a supple, laid back feel, neither particularly heavy nor overly sweet nor particularly intense. 90 points.

1989 Riesling Beerenauslese "Oberhauser Brucke" (Donnhoff)
Bitter, with most of the fruit as well as the sugar gone, this has some familiar dried apricot notes, but delivers very little of interest. It has good weight, little obvious fruit flavor, not much else. It is well past prime. 82 points.

2005 Silvaner Eiswein (Guntrum)
There's a bit of melon and a bit of pear, and lots of acidity. The flavors are a bit muted, and the wine seems light, with a modest finish. This, frankly, seemed rather boring for Eiswein, lacking distinction. It was easy and a certain amount of fun. But it won't fulfill many Eiswein dreams. 88 points.

1990 Chateau Yquem
This, from this bottle at least, lacked the richness and thickness of the 1988 I had had recently. But it was magnificent in so many ways... Full bodied, it is gorgeous, with persistent botrytis notes, fabulous flavors and an amazingly long, amazingly persistent finish that is simply one of the best I have ever had on  a Sauternes. Elegant and impeccably balanced, remarkably flavorful, and very, very, very long. 97 points.

2003 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese "Ockheimer Laberstall" (Merz)
Moderately rich, this has nice flavors, and acid that appears only after some air and time. Its flavors are pleasing, but the wine seems a bit self-satisfied, and it reminded me more of a BA in many respects. Perfectly charming, but there wasn't much TBA distinction lurking. 90 points.
 

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Germany (except dessert/sparkling)
1998 Riesling Auslese "Niersteiner Pettenthal" (Franz Karl Schmitt)
This friendly puppy seems young and lush, sweet and friendly. It is so youthful at age 8, you wonder when it will start showing some maturity. With a lot of air, and it got a lot eventually, it also showed some nice, well integrated, supporting acidity, not aggressive, but just enough to provide that tingle, that wake-up call. As the fruit and sugar moderated, the presentation remained interesting, if a bit more restrained and not quite as much fun. Very nice, and drinking well now, although still seeming rather primary.  Despite its youthfulness, I tend to think this is a wine better drunk in the mid-term because its best characteristics will link with relatively youthful fruit. 91 points.

2004 Riesling Spatlese "Kiedrich Gräfenberg" (Robert Weil)
From this heralded producer comes this proof of greatness. If the Auslese, above, is a friendly puppy, this, I joked, was Darth Vader, intense and powerful, pointed, and intent on gripping your palate and never letting go. The gripping acidity is the first thing you notice, and it could hardly be otherwise, but the balance here is exceptional. As time goes on, this young wine goes through various stages, the delicious off-dry fruit asserting itself at times, and the acid eventually coming into fine balance. The wines from this Rheingau producer are not cheap, but he seems to know what he is doing. 95 points.

2004 Riesling Spatlese "Norheimer Kirschheck" (Donnhoff)
A touch of petrol leads this off, but that integrates quickly. This is young, and as you expect, the parts of the wine are not exactly in total harmony, with notes of lemon and acidity occasionally bursting out. The texture is soft, though, and the wine for the most part presents itself gently. One suspects this will come to maturity relatively early, and be a good, not great wine. I need to see a little more distinction after a few years of cellaring to evaluate this more highly. 90 points.

 

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Italy (except dessert/sparkling)

1997 Merlot (Falesco) QPR Winner 
This is just the regular Merlot. At age 9, it shows beautifully. Ok, it is more reticent than when young, as you might expect, a little more reserved, a little more in the 'luncheon claret' range. But it has held beautifully, still ripe, with good flesh, no hint of decay.  Year-in, year-out, one of the best bargains in wine. 88 points.

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Loire (except dessert/sparkling)
1997 Pouilly-Fumé "Silex" (Dagueneau)
Anyone who doubts whether these age well should try this. It is youthful and pristine, still powerful, still rich, although showing considerable typicity now, with whispers of grass on the nose, evocative of warm summer nights. It is fragrant and ripe, full in the mouth, deep and caressing. It is a rather remarkable Sauv Blanc, and that comes from someone rarely enamored of the varietal. 95 points.

2004 Sancerre "La Garenne" (Girard)
Light and delicate, this is bright and a little hard, with touch of lemon, and lots of grass. It is, of course, rather young. Another year of cellaring may help this integrate a little, which I think it needs, as at times it was a bit too sharp, a touch shrill. 88 points.

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Rhone/South/SW France (except dessert/sparkling)
1998  Cotes du Rhone "Parallèle 45" (Jaboulet) QPR Winner 
This perennial "best buy" produced a terrific wine in this vintage for modest amounts of money. I stuck a bottle away, just to see how it would hold up. The answer: beautifully. It is a bit gamey, then the full palate strikes you. It is lively and dances across the tongue, in addition to having pretty reasonable depth for a wine of this nominal price level ($10) that is 8 years old. Compared to high end wines, it could use a little more intensity, perhaps, a little more distinction, a bit better finish, but I bet this would have fans in a double blind tasting with wines two or three times the price. Very tasty, still in the prime of life, it shows lots of class. It is soft enough now to make me put it at the bottom rather than the top of the original range I gave it, but it is still awfully fine for $10.  I wish I had hidden more away. 88 points.

1998 Vins de Pays de l'Herault (Mas de Daumas Gassac) QPR Winner 
This went through a dumb phase not long back, but it seems to be awake and ready to roll now. It opens with some game notes--think Rhone Cabernet--and finishes bright. It is easy and supple in between, of medium weight. With some air, the wine becomes a bit stern, and some tannins come out. This is aging gracefully, but in my view, it continues to show itself as a middle-of-the-road wine, lacking a bit in distinction.  By that I mean, this was a great vintage and this was one of the pioneer's in the region. Still, I'm gratified that it has improved, and maybe it will continue to do so. Drank well on Day #2.  89 points.

2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Laurence" (Pegau)

Spicy and exciting, this shows good acidity and beautiful, sweet fruit that is simply delicious.  Despite its suppleness, it shows fine structure to support the dense mid-palate, and its balance is impeccable.  With all the da Capo fuss, it is important to remember that this fine Domaine makes profound wine in a different style, too.  95 points.

2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "da Capo" (Pegau)

Dense and powerful,  this wine also features the signature characteristic of the cuvée, decadently sweet fruit, something that seems unforgivably delicious.  There are some bretty notes on the wine, which actually give it some distinction.  For all of the fruit forward quality that it has, this is hardly a fruit bomb.  It is not radically different in thickness, it does not seem heavy, and most of all, there is a fine supporting structure, including powerful tannins. The shame of it is that many only have a bottle and drink it young for the glorious, sweet, young fruit, but I think that this is something that will richly reward a decade or more of cellaring, particularly in this vintage. It became more intense with air, and in its own way, dare I say it, this is a "structure" wine that has a certain finesse.  There were some signs this was closing as it aired. It lacks the round texture of the "Laurence," above, at the moment, and is very aggressive. Do yourself a favor and cellar this. If you must drink it, drink someone else's. This will merit a big score increase one day, heading on to perfect, but I'm not sure it was coming close to showing all it had to give at the moment.  96+ points.  Note: I had this blind a few months later, showing somewhat more evolved from a bottle shipped to USA shores, and I had it pegged at 99.

2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Blanc" (Pegau)

Spicy and lively, this modestly endowed Blanc is charming and sunny, and fun to drink. Its elegance makes it enjoyable as a casual wine, but the finish and depth do not lend this the same profound demeanor that the reds from this winery have. 87 points.

2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Reservée" (Pegau)

I loved how this showed, with beautiful raspberry notes on the finish, and persistent flavors.  It was tight and fresh and bursting with flavor.  Then, I was told it had been open for three days and left in the cellar. Just call it another remarkable performance.  This should be a big beauty. It is not fair to rate this considering I only had it after it was open for three days, but assume this is a big winner.  Note: I had this blind a few months later and had it pegged as 97 points, and misidentified it as the da Capo.

2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Reservée"  (Pegau)

This was a barrel sample, and it should be a terrific wine in its own right--but destined to be overshadowed, perhaps unfairly-- by the powerful 2003 and the impeccable 2005.  (I had the chance to taste some unfinished 2005, including some component parts of Da Capo, which I am predicting will be the best one they have ever made. But back to the 2004....)  It shows excellent concentration, and at this point, a lovely, sappy middle, and lots of power already.  I expect this to acquire focus and precision as it matures, but it should always show great flavors and that remarkably rich palate. One of the best '04s I tasted on a recent trip, and a wine that seems like it will hold its open with surrounding top vintages.  94-96 points. 

1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Chaupin" (Domaine de la Janasse)

Rich,  yet very gracious and supple, this all-Grenache wine is dense, concentrated and beautifully constructed. Like a lot of '98s, this is opening and coming around, not quite at peak, but pretty close. I loved the round texture, but the sweet fruit is the attention getter, making a pleasure to taste. Decadently succulent, albeit not the most structured CdP around.  94 points.

1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Vielles Vignes" (Domaine de la Janasse)

Lovely and sensual, this once projected pure power, but has evolved beautifully.  It is absolutely decadent, with a great, lingering, intense finish.  Beautiful structure supports the rich and very sweet fruit.  Simply delicious and rather impressive.  Whether you like the style of this or the Chaupin more, this clearly will age better and gets the nod for structure.  96 points.

2004  Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Chaupin" (Domaine de la Janasse)

Bottled for only 15 days when tasted, this 100% Grenache show great promise.  A pungent red berry nose grabs your attention to start.  The basic material here seems terrific, excellent concentration, texture, and mouth-coating fruit.  There is a superb finish and nice acidity, too, making this a very fine '04. 93-95 points.

2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Tradition" (Domaine de la Janasse)

70% Grenache, this regular cuvée is a smaller scaled version of the special bottling.  It is elegantly styled and focused, with lovely strawberry flavors on the finish.  The flavors dance across the tongue. It will mature early and be very approachable young, but it seems rather compact after tasting the special bottlings.  89 points.

2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Vielles Vignes" (Domaine de la Janasse)

This is only 80% Grenache,  only, that is, compared to the Chaupin. It is another fabulous wine and something that may outpace the vintage overall.  The nose is even more powerful than on the Chaupin, the color darker, and the finish more intense and powerful with significant tannins on the end that say vin de garde. Gripping and dense, this is a big winner, with huge potential. It was just bottled in April, 2006, tasted a few weeks later. This is one of those '04s that will not apologize much, if at all, to the '03s and '05s.  94-96 points. NB:  I also had the 2005  from barrel and it is going to be even more powerful, with big tannins.  I am not prepared to rate it yet, but if the balance is right, it will be a great wine.

2004 Cotes du Rhone Village "Terre d'Argile" (Domaine de la Janasse)  QPR Winner 

A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, this has nice weight and flavors, an appropriate finish, and is elegantly structured.  There is a lot here to like, but it was hard not to be more impressed by the Garrigues bottling, below, granting that the all-Grenache aspect thereof gives it a head start when young.  88 points.

2004 Cotes du Rhone "Les Garrigues" (Domaine de la Janasse) QPR Winner 

100% Grenache, I found this inexpensive bargain to be a big winner, and something I liked more than the 2004 CdP regular bottling. This comes from an area just across from Beaucastel.  It has a fantastic nose, and sweet, succulent, strawberry fruit.  It shows excellent balance, and is approachable now.  Drink young, but it will be lovely while in peak form.  Very sexy.  90 points.

2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Tradition" (Domaine de la Janasse)

In the bottle for just ten days when tasted, this is fruity and grapey, with a heckuva kick on the end.  It is very gripping, enough so to make one wonder if the tannins will be a bit much for the fruit.  It is just a question of how good it is, though, not how bad.  87-89 points.

2005 Vins de Pays "Terre de Bussière" (Domaine de la Janasse) QPR Winner 

This is something you will not see much.  At least I have not.  It is a blend of Merlot, Syrah and a little of Cabernet Franc and Grenache.  It is very tasty and lively, with nice balance, good depth for its price, and good focus, together with some power on the finish.  It is a bit tight, and shows good potential for development.  The great news though is simply this:  a mere 8 Euros at the winery, simply a steal. It demonstrates the Sabons' commitment to quality.  86-88 points.

1995  "Les Raisins Perdus"  (Domaine de la Janasse)

This is not labeled Chateauneuf.  It is effectively a red--they also make a white--late harvest wine that shows some sugar on the finish, although a lot more subtly I am sure than when young.  The nose smelled old, but it tasted young, supple and balanced.  The tannins are very ripe, and it has a seamless quality.  Only one barrel made.  Good with cheeses, perhaps some foods with sweet sauces, a difficult food match otherwise. Note: This was a gracious gift from winemaker Christoph Sabon, who, upon finding out that I was dining with another winemaker, gave me this bottle to take along.  92 points.

1999 Lirac Rouge "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée) 

In this superb lineup of Liracs, running around 14 Euros at the winery, this is not inspiring, but not bad. It opens luscious and fruity, promising  a lot, but it fades on the finish and seems a touch short.  Still a pretty fair deal for 7 year old Lirac, and if Mordorée was not doing so well at redefining the appellation, this would seem fine.   86 points.

2000 Lirac Rouge "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)  QPR Winner 

This is just beautiful, and according to the winemaker, is showing exceptionally well now.  Sure seems so to me.  The red berry nose leads it off, promising waves of fruit, and boy does it deliver.  For all of the delicious, supple fruit, this is intense and heady, too, showing soft tannins on the finish that will allow the wine to age awhile longer gracefully. Fruity and sexy, this is delicious and a steal.  92 points.

2001 Lirac Rouge "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

A powerful, gorgeous nose leads this off, laced with raspberries and herbs.  Delicious. Surprisingly, though,  and it surprised the winemaker, too, it seems a bit too soft and easy, making the winemaker declare it to be closed.  Perhaps so, but I need to see more from this, granting that I had little time to spend with this. All I can say at this point is...  88 points.

2002 Lirac Rouge "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

This winery made  a determined effort to produce decent wine in this vintage, and their efforts were not wholly in vain. That said, while the wines were pleasant and had some initial fruit that made them fun when young, they were short and simple and faded fast. They won't be getting better.   So, too, here.  The texture is not bad, but the wine disappears fast, making it seem simple and slight.  80 points.

2003 Lirac Rouge "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée) QPR Winner 

This seems like essence of fruit, rich and ripe, and also with very heavy, powerful tannins that make you want to double check the label to be sure this is  a Lirac. The rich fruit is simply delicious, but be warned...this powerful wine will close down soon and hard.  Not ready.  An amazing wine for this appellation. 93 points.

2004 Lirac Rouge "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

Just bottled in April, 2006, a few weeks before being tasted, this is closed and tight and showing absolutely nothing but decent weight.  I think this will be fine, but it is hard to say with the short time I had to spend with it. It seems a bit austere and compact. 88? points.

2005 Lirac Rouge "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée) QPR Winner 

Powerful and fruity, this will take its place among the top wines in this lineup.  It has a big nose, and hits 15 points in alcohol, but the wine impresses as perfectly balanced.  It needs to evolve, but all the pieces are here for another big winner at cheap prices.  This winery is simply redefining the Lirac appellation.  92-94 points.

2001 Lirac Blanc "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée) QPR Winner 

This winery is not as famous for its white Liracs as its reds, but they do a typically fine job for peanuts (around 13 Euros per bottle at the Domaine).  These Blancs are a steal. You are getting white Chateauneuf for a pittance.  This is a classy wine, a typical Rhone multi-varietal blend.  It opens with a steely nose, and ends with a rich finish, showing a touch of cream.  It is beautiful and pure, with robust flavors--c'mon! Thirteen Euros and 5 year old Lirac Blanc....would robust be the word to come to mind? It is full in the mouth and delicious.  This came from young vines, but with low yields.  92 points.

2002 Lirac Blanc "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

Another determined effort in this vintage from this winery...it has lovely flavors on the finish for a short while, but it is half the weight of the '01 and finally fades. Pleasant, but too simple. A noble try in this vintage. With every passing year, expect even the 2002s that had some success to fade faster than expected.  More successful than the rouge. 84 points.

2003 Lirac Blanc "Cuvée Reine des Bois"  (Domaine de la Mordorée) QPR Winner 

Clean and pure, this has a beautiful finish and a lively demeanor. It lacks the weight and length of the '01, unless it fleshes out with another year of age and cellaring, but it is lively, fresh and charming. I would need to see it improve more in the cellar, though.  88 points.

2004 Lirac Blanc "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée) QPR Winner 

Spicy, with tingly acidity and the verve of youth, this shows gorgeous fruit flavors and good weight.  Charming, lively and lovely.  There is something to be said for freshness with these wines even if they can hold, and this is pure and vibrant at the moment. 89 points.

2005 Lirac Blanc "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)  QPR Winner 

Just bottled in February 2006, this shows a pungent nose and youthful aggression.  It is full bodied and rich, with considerable concentration.  It is too young to judge finally, but this may surpass the '01 as the best in this lineup.  91-93 points.

2001 Tavel Rosé (Domaine de la Mordorée) QPR Winner 

Amazingly fresh, this wine proves what the winemaker wanted to show me--Rosés can age and remain in good form.  Yet, as this lineup progressed, I would still have to say that freshness and youth served these wines better still.  Leave it to Mordorée, though, to put another notch in its belt for high quality in places you do not always expect to find it.  This seems just perfect until compared to the younger wines.   It seems fresh, with good color and lovely fragrance and flavor.  The finish is a bit short and it could use some verve.  88 points.

2002 Tavel Rosé (Domaine de la Mordorée)

Another valiant effort in this vintage, and the Rosé may be tops among them.  Spicy and still fresh, this seems to do most everything right, although it gives some hint that the alcohol may eventually assert itself over the fruit.  Still, nice job. Drink up, though.  84 points.

2004 Tavel Rosé (Domaine de la Mordorée) QPR Winner 

Vibrant and fresh, this shows the youthful vitality you want from a Rosé.  Its core has a fruity center that I can only call joie de vivre, because it is so sexy and alive with exuberant fruit.  That said, it is perfectly balanced, too, and it has restrained exuberance, if that makes sense.  (If you are wondering what happened to the 2003, I have a note on that elsewhere on the site, and it is holding very well.)  For the 2004, 90 points.

2005 Tavel Rosé (Domaine de la Mordorée) QPR Winner 

Here again is evidence of the  quality of this vintage, and also the advantage that freshness has. This may be the best of the lineup.  Rich and fruity, it is deep and fragrant.  The nose is glorious, the fruit absolutely delicious.   An absolutely exceptional Rosé.  93 points.

1999 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

By itself, this is quite pleasing, but as part of the lineup below, this fall short, seeming pleasant, but soft and simple.  It finishes a bit short, and should be considered fully ready. 88 points.

2000 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

Gorgeous fruit is the hallmark of this beauty.  It is rich and ripe and full of flavor, a touch decadent, thoroughly hedonistic.  It is not the best structured wine in this group, nor the longest lived, but may be the sexiest.  It is pretty ready to roll now.  93 points.

2002 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

A stereotype for the better efforts of the vintage---short, simple, fruity, pleasant, not much underneath.  A good try, but with every passing year it will be worse.  This, from the winery, is a bit better than a bottle I had in the USA market. 85 points.

2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

Delicious, exotic and sexy, this combines dense, perfect fruit with great supporting structure, and a very rich, very ripe nose of strawberries and kirsch. If not quite as classic as the great 2001, on which I have a note elsewhere on this site (tasted in this lineup, it has sure shut down...), it remains fresh and pure.  My prior note on this wine found it rather unbalanced, but it seems to have integrated its parts exceptionally well, a considerable turnaround from what I saw on release.  95 points.

2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

Just bottled, this shows the balance typical of the vintage, excellent structure, and a somewhat restrained style.  When it opens, it should be a lovely CdP in a classic style, but it is not showing much at the moment and is hard to read. 92 points.

2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Cuvée Reine des Bois" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

Beautiful fruit combines with big tannins to produce a potential blockbuster here.  The flavors are pure and perfect on this barrel sample, and the wine is intense and fresh, lively and exuberant.  Color is very dark.  This obviously needs time, but its potential is exciting.  I would have liked to have spent more time with it.  95-97  points.

2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Plume du Peintre--Eternité" (Domaine de la Mordorée)

This is a luxury cuvée that runs around 85 Euros at the winery.  Only 1500 bottles are made,  this winery's answer to da Capo and Hommage à Perrin,  luxury bottlings in Chateauneuf.  They have succeeded big time.  It is inky black, so dark you cannot even begin to see through it.  It smells fabulous and tastes better, delivering rich essence of fruit, with some notable tannins happily found on the finish.  For all of the "go for it" style, everything here seems to be in good balance.   Nothing seems over the top or clumsy. Further, with age, and the winery thinks this will hold indefinitely, this will develop some complexity.  The blend of 1/3rd each of Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache, works well. I try not to get too excited about wines I have not seen age in the past, but maybe if this comes along well in the cellar, it will merit a perfect score.  97 points.

2005 Rosé  (Beaurenard)
Bottled just six weeks before this tasting, this showed fine acidity, a lively demeanor, and fresh--and refreshing--fruit. It is dry and restrained, in a more classic style, but the lively acidity will be just what the wine doctor orders on a really hot summer day.  88 points.

2004 Cotes du Rhone (Beaurenard)
This is soft and supple, with just a bit of tannin on the end. It has nice texture and excellent flavors on the finish. While quite pleasant for an everyday drink, it is on the simple side, ready now and not likely to age terribly well. It is, of course, an inexpensive, low end wine, and in that context does its job well. 84 points.

2004 Rasteau (Beaurenard)
This has a fruity nose, and is fuller in the mouth than the generic Cotes du Rhone, above.  It has a bit better structure, and needs a year or so in the cellar. The generally favorable impression is muted a bit by a short finish. 85 points.

2003 Rasteau (Beaurenard) QPR Winner 
Full and rich, with some power on the end, this adds all the pieces that seem to be missing from the mute 2004.  The fruit is ripe and the texture sensual. It is bursting with flavor. A fine performance. 88 points.

2004 Rasteau "Les Argiles Bleues" (Beaurenard)
In the bottle for about a month before being tasted, this is smooth and supple, showing good acidity and sweet fruit.  The wine has a rather lively feel, good fruit and a decent finish for its class. 87 points.

2003 Rasteau "Les Argiles Bleues" (Beaurenard)  QPR Winner 
There is a bit of a reductive nose to lead this off and some wood, both of which seem to moderate quickly. It is a big wine, with ripe tannins still evident on the finish. There is a lot of power and richness here for this class of wine, and it is very fine. 90 points.

2001 Rasteau "Les Argiles Bleues" (Beaurenard)  QPR Winner 
This has a beautiful purity of fruit, and is evolving gorgeously in the cellar. It is lively and sweet, with impeccable balance. If not quite as powerful as the 2003, it is focused and precise, while not losing its lovely, sweet fruit. Pretty nice. While this does not have quite the structure or ageworthy qualities of the top Chateauneuf bottlings, and loses some points for that reason, it is otherwise a pretty good substitute for more expensive wines in the long term. 90 points.

2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Beaurenard)
Bottled not long before this tasting, this shows clean and pure, with some mineral notes on the finish.  It is on the lighter side, but with lovely flavors on the finish. It is a bit delicate, but ripe and pleasing. This is the regular bottling, not the Old Vines. 88 points.

2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaurenard)
Tasted at the winery, this regular CdP bottling was called more complex than the Rasteaus by one of the owners, with which comment I would have to agree. It is not, however, any deeper or more structured. The fruit is rather modest here, and it is soft, though lively, and seems destined for early drinking. 88 points.

2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaurenard)  QPR Winner 
Full and rich, this seems to me to blow the 04 version of this bottling away.  Very ripe and with a powerful finish, it shows more aging potential than the regular bottlings usually have, and lots of intensity. The fruit seems sufficiently deep to balance the tannins. If this holds as well as I think it will, it will merit a higher score. 90+ points.

2002 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaurenard)
In this difficult vintage, this low yield wine represents a good try.  It has pleasant fruit, with some lively character, although it is short and ultimately fades away. 85 points.

2001 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaurenard)  QPR Winner 
Lovely. This has perfect balance, and delicious black fruit. It is supple and seems ready, but there are tannins on the end, subtle but there. It is very elegant, can be held or drunk now. Its apparent softness is enlivened by those occasional bursts of tannins and it can benefit from another year or two in the cellar. 90 points.

2000 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaurenard) QPR Winner 
Like so many 2000s, the hallmark here is beautiful, succulent fruit. Yet, it is fresh and lively and aging well, in the prime of its life and showing fine balance. The ripe tannins sneak up on you.  I think this can still open more, but it is certainly quite drinkable. 91 points.

1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaurenard) QPR Winner 
Fully open, this shows sweet fruit and is a delicious, ready-to-roll beauty.  Whether you like this better than the 2000, 2003 or 2001 is a matter of choice. I had a soft spot for the 2000, and think the 2003 has the most potential. However, they are of roughly comparable quality, just somewhat different styles. This is the one that is drinking best at the moment, though. 90 points.

1982 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaurenard)
A musty nose leads this off, and it shows lots of oxidation, although great weight. This must have been a monster wine in its time, but from this bottling it seems to be showing lots of signs of decay.  80 points.

1990 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaurenard)
This is fully open, as might be expected, and has a touch of interesting flavor. It is past prime and a bit sharp, but still has some fruit and is worth drinking. Drink up, though. It is not going to get better.  85 points.

2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Boisrenard" (Beaurenard)
Bottled about two weeks prior to this tasting, this shows a gorgeous, pungent nose, and superb balance. The nose is exotic and powerful, with some floral notes. The palate shows some restraint on fruit, as the tannins dominate at the moment. It is a bit tight and closed, but should be a fine wine. 91-93 points.

2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Boisrenard" (Beaurenard)
Another big nose leads off the 2003, and big tannins follow, with touches of astringency. Apart from this particular vintage, the Boisrenard demonstrates consistently a vin de garde style, better structure, more power, than the regular bottlings. It has excellent weight and I think the balance is there. The winery thinks five years of cellaring will be adequate. I have to wonder, though, if 7-10 might not be more appropriate. if it develops well, it will merit a higher score.  94 points.

1990 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "Boisrenard" (Beaurenard)
This is the first vintage of Boisrenard. It shows substantial tannins still, a hallmark of the bottling. The balance here is not as good as with the more recent bottlings, though. There are traces of oxidation on the nose, and the tannin clearly is outliving the fruit. There seems to be no fresh fruit flavor left to speak of, although the fruit is dense and concentrated. This has some merit, but it is past prime in my view. 87 points.

2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc "Boisrenard" (Beaurenard)
>From 80 year old vines, this is the Blanc version of Boisrenard. It is gorgeous, showing beautiful balance, good viscosity and great elegance. Elegance is not a euphemism for thin here, however. It is perhaps on the lighter side, but acquires a bit more flesh with some air. Its flavors linger on the finish. Quite charming and rather complex. 93 points.

1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape "da Capo" (Pegau)
This wine's hallmark has always been its decadently sweet fruit. It is a mistake to think da Capo is just a fruit bomb, though. It is not particularly thick or heavy. And it always has great structure, a serious backbone, significant tannins. The wine is very ripe, but it is not merely flamboyant. It is real wine. The fruit has lovely raspberry notes, and the finish is tight and gripping. Throughout, the focus remains on the wine. 96 points.

2003 Crozes-Hemitage "Clos des Grives" (Domaine Combier) QPR Winner 

Sweet, supple and rich, this remarkable bargain (10  Euros in France) is balanced and suave, too, with a caressing texture. There are cherry notes on the palate, a touch of kirsch on the nose. Supple tannins and focus give it some liveliness.  Drinks decently now, but should be better in a year or two.  89 points.

2004 Vinsobres "Les Cornuds" (Perrin et Fils)
This 50/50 blend of Syrah and Grenache, is light and a bit delicate, but sweet and fun. It finishes a bit short, but for what it is, it has a certain charm and "drink me now" appeal. 85 points.

2004 Vinsobres "Hauts de Julien" (Perrin et Fils) QPR Winner 
From 70 year old vines, this shows smooth and suave, and is sweet and clean.  Although supple, it has some underlying tannins, and they provide some grip on a fine finish.  Elegant and ripe, this shows nice structure, although I would still advise drinking it rather young. It seems approachable now. This might merit a somewhat higher score if it develops with a couple of years in the cellar. There is some potential here.  Not having had it before, and having had little time to sit with it, I'll be conservative. 88 points.

2004 Rasteau "L'Andéol" (Perrin et Fils)
This is 80% Grenache, the rest Syrah. There are hints of game on the nose, which I rather liked.  It is bright and light.  Although it shows some distinction and character, it is a bit delicate in the mid-palate.   For its price range and status, it is a good deal. 86 points.

2000 Rasteau  "L'Andéol" (Perrin et Fils) QPR Winner 
This is 100% Grenache in this vintage. It has lovely flavors and sensual texture. It is soft and approachable, yet refreshing with some liveliness. This is a very good time to approach this as the fruit is still sweet on the end, and the wine is completely charming. I would not consider holding this very much longer, though. 88 points. 

2004 Vacqueyras "Les Christins" (Perrin et Fils) QPR Winner 
I don't think this is a wine that will repay considerable aging, but for the mid-term, this is lovely.  It shows fine depth for its class, seeming full in the mouth, as well as some distinctive character, with notes of grilled meat on the finish. There are also noticeable tannins for structure, that might give it a chance to hold gracefully for a few years. I have to say, though, that it seems to drink just fine right now, and is immensely appealing. 90 points.

2004 Gigondas "La Gille" (Perrin et Fils)
This starts with a reductive nose, but the palate is fine, with hints of game and nice flavors. It is a bit light, although slightly fuller than the 04 Rasteau L'Andéol, above, and a bit short and soft, but still a pretty respectable value. 87 points.

2005 Rosé (La Vielle Ferme)
Cool and refreshing, this is fruity but restrained, with good weight and lovely flavors.  Easy and friendly. 88 points.

2003 Cotes du Rhone "Coudoulet" (Beaucastel)
This presents and exuberant nose at the outset, heralding wonderfully ripe fruit that is sweet and delicious. The attack is soft, but there is some length on the finish, and some tannin lurking underneath. This is nicely put together, and the parts are integrating beautifully. 89 points.

2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Beaucastel)
Bottled in July, 2005, this has a pungent nose, and sweet, grapey fruit that hardly reminds you of stern, powerful, ageworthy Beaucastel. There is a hint of game lurking underneath that may give the wine more distinction with cellaring, as it calms down and it parts begin to integrate. At the moment, it is all about the fruit, jammy and rich, although not quite heavy, and certainly not over the top. It was hard to find the backbone at the moment, but cellaring will certainly change the perceptible balance. 93 points.

2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Beaucastel)
Elegant and light on its feet, with a finish that sneaks up on you,  and does better than you might think, this regular bottling of the Blanc is delightful and charming. 89 points.

2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc "Vielles Vignes" (Beaucastel)
This Old Vines bottling adds the richness and intensity on the finish that I longed for in the regular bottling, above. This looks like a super vintage for this, showing fine depth and gorgeous flavors, with succulent fruit lingering on the finish. 94 points.

2004 Tavel Rosé (Chateau d'Aqueria)
Spicy, with a lovely nose and reasonable body, this shows nice fruit on the mid-palate, good flavor on the finish, which is refreshing and respectably long. 87 points.

2005 Tavel Rosé (Chateau d'Aqueria)
Like its 2004 counterpart, this starts a bit spicy or piquant, if you will. But I liked everything about this better. It is beautiful and lively, with excellent fruit flavor and depth, and seemingly perfect balance.  It would be nice to see this in the USA this year, rather than next, while it is still exuberant and at maximum freshness. 90 points.

2005 Lirac Blanc  (Chateau d'Aqueria) QPR Winner 
A blend of Grenache, Roussanne, Clairette and other typical varietals, this is bright, showing good acidity and a respectable finish that I rather liked. There is just a touch of cream on the texture. Now, this may not be a flat out great wine, but for 8.3 Euros at the winery, it is a real nice deal. 87 points.

2004 Lirac Rouge  (Chateau d'Aqueria)
A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, this is soft and simple, and finishes short. Supple and easy, with pulpy fruit, it seems a little too simple, although keep in mind, in all fairness, that this is only an 8.5 Euro wine at the winery. In that context, it is a fair deal. 84 points.

1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape (La Nerthe) QPR Winner 
I thought it was pretty much ready to roll, but still youthful. It drank well for two days. I loved its development in the glass with air. This is a classic example of how wines close up (and yet some say CdPs don't...!) This was something like a $20 wine on release. It tasted great on release. A year or so later it was hard and lean, and I was getting nothing out of it, and I was rather disappointed. I actually wondered whether the wine had passed peak.  I dropped them into the cellar, and just pulled one out.  Beautiful, and plenty of life left, supple and flavorful, exceptionally well balanced. 90 points.

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Spain (except dessert/sparkling) 
2001 CastellRoig Tinto (Sabate i Coca) QPR Winner 
This Tempranillo/Merlot blend from Penedes has a beautifully exuberant nose, projecting grapey young fruit. I liked its texture, as it showed some roundness and some velvet, and for its price category it seemed full in the mouth. What I wanted most to see, though, was some structure to match the pulpy, grapey fruit, and a little air allowed some drying tannins to pop out on the finish.  As it opened more, the flavors seemed to just explode in the glass, and it fleshed out just enough, displaying reasonable depth for its price category. If it is sometimes a bit simple, it is also flavorful and has a lingering finish with good grip. With a suggested retail price of just $14, this is a superb bargain. This is drinking well now, but should hold nicely for a few more years without problem. 88 points.

2005 Vi de Nulles Blanc (Vinicola de Nulles) QPR Winner 
This white from a co-op in Tarragona is mostly Macabeo, then 25% Xarello, with tiny bits of Chardonnay and Muscat thrown in.  The nose shows a bit grassy and then a bit cloying. Some logically thought the Muscat (2.5%) asserted itself itself in the nose, but it ultimately seemed more Sauvignon Blanc-esque to me.  It is sharp and crisp, clean and unoaked. It is a bit delicate and on the light side, but it feels elegant, not thin. Drink this wine young, and it will be a great summer white due to its crispness and the lively aromatics. A super value at $11, this will be extremely appealing for short term drinking. I can't rate this any higher for a "drink now" wine, but if you drink it now and in the Summer, you'll like what you get. 87 points.

2005 Vi de Nulles Rosat (Vinicola de Nulles)
This Rosado (Rosat in Tarragona) is 50/50 Merlot and Tempranillo (called Ull de Llebre here). It had a nose I rather disliked, of bubblegum strawberries, very pulpy, rather candied. It made me think of Kool Aid, and I was a little concerned.  I don't know what the case is, but I wondered if there was some partial whole berry fermentation here. It is much better on the palate, not sweet as I feared it might be, although it is quite fruity.  I never quite warmed up to this.  Simple and routine, but not a bad deal at $11. 82 points.

2005 Vi de Nulles "Negre de Nulles" (Vinicola de Nulles)
Simple and friendly, this is 50% Tempranillo, the rest Garnacha and Merlot.  I liked the lovely aromatics on the nose very much, and as befits an unoaked wine, it is clean and pure. It is too light and simple to be really distinguished, though, lacking a mid-palate and having little finish. That said, this is an $11 wine that has some basic goals, to provide a clean, easy drinking light red suitable for certain uses, such as a slightly chilled summer red, and it achieves those well. I can't justify scoring it higher given its inherent limitations, but for the right circumstances, this can be the right wine. Hopefully, it can be found with a discount off of the retail list price, too. Drink this young, though, and make sure it is well stored. 83 points.

2000 Valderiz "Tomas Esteban" (Bodegas y Vinedos Valderiz)
This small production wine (250 cases) from Ribera del Duero is made from 100% Tinta del Pais (Tempranillo). It is going for the gold, coming in a big, heavy bottle with a suggested retail price of $101.  That is, frankly, a bit hard to stomach, but ignoring that, it is a fine wine. The nose reminded me a bit of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with some gamey notes, and also perhaps some bretty notes. It opened with impeccable balance, showing supple, with ripe fruit, with a hint of something sweet in the finish, perhaps a touch of licorice. The tannins were ripe, too, and the finish was leavened with good acidity.  I thought it needed a bit more depth, though, particularly for something in this price range. I was pleased to see it expand a bit in the glass, although it remains on the more elegant side. It otherwise evolved beautifully, becoming both livelier and more gripping.  This is nowhere near peak yet, but is quite approachable. I'd like to see it, though, after a couple of hours of decanting. It is a classy wine, but needs a little more depth for its sticker price. 92 points.

2002 Valderiz  (Bodegas y Vinedos Valderiz)
Opening with a nose of bacon fat, much like its big brother, above, this wine does not share its big brother's class and distinction. It is light and short, lacking the depth and finish to impress. It just disappears on the finish, and fades quickly away, rather spoiling an initially interesting presentation. Some liked the sauvage aspects of the wine anyway, but in this vintage $30 seems excessive for something that tries hard but is ultimately ephemeral. Drink young. It impresses at first, but goes nowhere fast. 84 points.

2004 Senorio de Valdehermoso Joven (Bodegas y Vinedos Valderiz)  QPR Winner 
This young vines Tempranillo offering (called Tinta del Pais here) from Valderiz is a pretty nice deal at $11.  Focused and pointed, with supporting tannins for the grapey, young fruit, it shows some meaty notes, although not as prominently as the preceding wines from Valderiz. It is light and shows little depth or finish, although it evolves nicely and shows some power eventually.  Unoaked  and showing nice purity of fruit, despite the gamey nuance here and there. 86 points.

2003 Isis (Els Guiamets)
This wine from Montsant should run around $18, and is a blend of Syrah (45%), Garnacha (25%), Carinena (25%) and the rest Tempranillo. It is very bright, perhaps too much so, and at times this devolved into something a bit tart, with almost a lime overtone. I loved the nose more, filled with blueberry notes, and the wine certainly coats the mouth and provides good fruit and nice texture.  It wasn't something I really enjoyed drinking, though, despite its many good features. Maybe some time in the cellar will help it. 84 points.

2004 Les Tallades (Els Guiamets) QPR Winner 
This $11 wine from Montsant (a Garnacha, Carinena and Tempranillo blend) is a pretty good deal in a clean, unoaked, although rather simple style. It is fresh and pure, showing lovely strawberry nuances. I was surprised to see that it had at least one more trick, as it showed increasingly succulent fruit with air, becoming a bit exuberant as well as stylish. For drinking now, this is a lot of fun. I liked it more with every additional sip.  86 points.

2002 Sango de Rejadorada (Bodega Rejadorada)
>From Toro, this old vines Tempranillo (Tinta de Toro) wine running around $43 (about 800 cases), shows a lot of class and distinction in this vintage.  I loved its beautiful flavors and its depth, and the acidity and fine fruit combine to make this wine succulent, mouthwateringly good. It fills the mouth, and is lively besides, seeming both rich and intense. At its best, its fruit seems like essence of Tempranillo. I did think it faded a bit as time went on, but it is a very nice performance, and a wine with considerable sex appeal. I'd drink this on the younger side.  91 points.

2003 Rejadorada Tinto Roble (Bodega Rejadorada)  QPR Winner 
Very bright, with concentrated, sappy fruit in the mid-palate, this Toro Tempranillo has a sharp bite on the finish and tingly, ripe tannins to support its fruit. The sweet fruit in the mid-palate is rich and extremely appealing, and the taste is sweeter still when you consider that this super value has a list price of only $15. Very tasty, with a nice mouthfeel. 89 points.

2002 Novellum (Bodega Rejadorada)
Full at first in the mouth, it lightens rather quickly with air, showing nice raspberry notes. It falls away fast, though, there not being much grip or length on the finish. An initially nice presentation goes nowhere and rapidly disappears.  Around $21. 83 points.

2000 Clos Fonta (Mas D'en Gil)
This kitchen sink blend (Garnacha Peluda, Garnacha Pais, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carinena) from Priorat runs around $86 and there were about 1300 cases made. Worth the bucks? Perhaps. The price is high, but the wine is fine. It is smooth early on, and then powerful tannins assert themselves. This is made to age well.  The fruit is beautiful, with notes of plum as a nuance I liked, a darker, burnished note that was distinctive and interesting. The question is what to do with those big, astringent tannins, mouth drying and assertive. I was pleased to see some evidence that with air they could integrate into the body of the wine, which is certainly substantial.  This is something that will drink better around 2011, I think, when the tannins moderate and the parts of the wines harmonize. Impressive, distinctive and striking. It is always perilous handing out great scores to wines you have not had before--because to me, a great score includes the concept of the wine being able to age and develop in the cellar, always hard to predict without some track record. I'm really interested to see what happens to this in five years, at which time my score could seem conservative or overly enthusiastic, but I'm betting I'm about right. 94 points.

2000 Coma Vella (Mas D'en Gil)
Another kitchen sink blend (Carinena, Garnacha Peluda, Garnacha Pais, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah) from this Priorat estate, this wine ($45) goes for sex appeal instead of power, unlike its sibling above.  There are some tannins evident on the finish, but the beautiful flavors and fruit make this seductive and sensual. It is supple and velvety, mouthcoating and rich. The fruit in the middle is sweet and delectable, and are supported by just enough acidity and tannins. Forward, but by no means just a fruit bomb, this is drinking well now, but can easily age for some years gracefully. Although the Clos Fonta, above, gets vin de garde credit, and it will outlive this, and eventually outperform it, I suspect a lot of folks would prefer this wine, almost half the price, at the moment. 93 points.

1999 Coma Blanca (Mas D'en Gil)
Made from 60 year old Garnacha Blanca and Macabeo vines, this unusual Priorat is simply a revelation. Serve this blind in a tasting, and watch people guess "White Rhone." It has that oily texture, and a burnished feel of maturing, but still fresh and lively fruit. There are oodles of flavor, some moderate acidity on the finish, and just a touch of cream in the rather sensual texture (perhaps from 6 months in French oak).  It has focus, too. Very nice, sunny and lively, and simply delicious. Now, the bad news. The price: $68. And sold out. 94 points.

2003 Montsant "Fra Guerau" (Vinas del Montsant) QPR Winner 
Simple, but friendly, this opens dominated by oak, and seems short and uninteresting. It then shows some small bursts of acidity, and comes together fairly nicely in the glass, showing soft and gentle, with sweet notes from oak but fruit, too. It remained a bit simple, but I rather liked how this evolved, eventually showing some black cherry and spice. After it aired out, it started to show some hints of game, too, as well as some tannins, which both gave it a little distinction. I liked it more and more with some time in the glass as the oak integrated and the structure appeared.  Considering that I was able to pick this up for $8, it was a nice deal. This is drinking well now. 86 points.

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