Alsace  (except dessert/sparkling)

1998 Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive "Heimbourg" (Zind-Humbrecht)

Another big winner from ZH. This wine is unusually dry for a young VT. It shows muscle and classical notes, but the sweetness builds only gradually.   This is, in fact, a great introduction to fine, classic gewurztraminer, although be careful: you may spoil someone who will think they are all this concentrated, and sport finishes this long.  Rich and burnished, it nonetheless flaunts  notes of lychees and spice and pepper. This is somehow pulls off "opulent" and "delineated" at the same time, complex and hedonistic at the same moment. 95 points.

2001 Riesling "Cuvée L'Inedit" (Domaine Weinbach)
This special, irregular bottling from Weinbach is invariably a big winner. Rich and off dry, it seems unusually opulent for riesling, but manages to retain its balance. Those looking for piercing acidity, à la the Mosel, look elsewhere. This is fatter, oilier, with a sensual, mouthcoating texture. The steel and structure is hidden now, but cellaring will show those components. Very nice. 91-93 points.

2001 Pinot Gris "Cuvée Laurence" (Domaine Weinbach)
Very sweet, this ripe, opulent pinot gris is a sexy, corpulent little wonder. It doesn't have a lot of apparent structure at the moment, as the fruit and sugar dominate everything, but it sports a nice, long finish, and simply delectable flavor.  One hedge I have about this is how it will develop, whether it knits together, or remains a pleasing fruit bomb. I bet on the higher end of the score. I do have to wince at the price, though.  Around $600 a case, depending on various factors. 90-92 points.

2001 Pinot Gris "Altenbourg Cuvée Laurence" (Domaine Weinbach)
If the regular PG Laurence, above is sexy and unadulterated fun, this certainly takes things up a notch. It is richer, riper, deeper, sweeter. Where both this and the regular PG Laurence are delightful, this also heads off in the direction of profound. It will be exciting to watch this wine age and develop, but it is also fun to drink now. It may also come in around $650-$700 a case, though--not exactly a best buy, but if you want top notch pinot gris, this is what it's all about. It is well worth the modest $5 or so a bottle differential from the regular Laurence.  93-95 points.

1998 Gewurztraminer "Steingrubler" (Albert Mann) QPR Winner
This wine, which sells in the low $20 range, is simply about the best buy there is in Alsace and one of the great wine values in the world.  It is grand cru.  In good vintages, like this one, it is serious grand cru at that --not some warmed over imitation with a famous label. It is simply amazing quality for the price. With a little age, this has only improved since my last taste. It is amazingly ripe and unctuous, seemingly sweeter than young Auslesen, and a heckuva lot thicker. This is simply a tour de force wine that competes with the big boys but that could be acquired on release for about $20. Yikes! The mouthfeel is sensational, oily, completely coating your mouth with the lush fruit. The fruit holds up to the sugar well. This is not quite over to dessert wine--and some sugar will blow off with cellaring--but there is more balance here than meets the eye. Finally, with warmth and air you begin to get some gewurz notes, the lychees. In great vintages, this is simply about the best bargain you can find in great gewurz. 94 points.

2000 Pinot Gris "Furstentum" (Albert Mann)   QPR Winner

This is one of those PGs that I think are sometimes mini-gewurzs--a bit flamboyant and spicy, but not quite so much. This is simply delicious--rather sweet, although the sugar will blow off with some cellaring, it is opulent and round, with a well textured, sensuous mouthfeel. As it warms up, it becomes spicy, and more gewurz-y. But of course, it isn't gewurz. It is hard to resist, if not terribly profound or intense. 91 points.

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Argentina  (except dessert/sparkling)
1997 Malbec Reserve (Terrazas) QPR Winner

Deep, opulent, and a sexy mouthful, this ripe Malbec is rich, smooth and flavorful.  There is balance, too, though, and it finishes a bit bright, just enough to save the wine from a flabby demeanor.  I really like the layers of fruit, and the persistent flavor. Best of all, the price, around the low $30s, seems worth every penny--which is rare these days. Recent vintages can be had for a lot less--some people have reported to me finding recent releases for around $20. 90-91 points.

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Australia  (except dessert/sparkling)
1996 Grenache "Lalla Rookh Old Vines" (Coriole) QPR Winner
I've always been fascinated by this wine, which shows far more capacity to evolve than anyone could think. On release, it was tannic and powerful. After four or five years, it became so flamboyant and sweet that I wondered where the structure went---although lots of air told me that the tannins were still there. Today, it seems beautifully integrated, neither flamboyant nor overly tannic, with all the pieces in place. It remains flavorful and lush, but also has acquired lovely balance, to go with a sweet, lingering finish redolent of strawberries.  Nicely done. This is not as cheap these days, but on release was under $20. 90 points.

2000 Shiraz "G.A.M." (Mitolo)

About $30 a bottle, this is a lovely shiraz for early to medium term drinking. Filled with beautiful flavors, nuanced by blueberry, and dark chocolate,  this shows just a touch of extreme ripeness perhaps, but is close enough to normal so that its flavors are easily appreciated. Lush and easy, but tasty and delicious, this is an awfully good value shiraz.  Not terribly complex, but if this were a long termer, I'd be tempted to up my score. 89 points.

2002 Shiraz (Woop Woop) QPR Winner
For all the talk of Aussie boutique wines, overpriced and hyped, there are still plenty of wines like this! This should hit most stores around $10-11, depending on discounts. What a great deal at the price. It is completely ready to drink now, soft and approachable, and shows some rhubarb notes, with sweet, but relatively bright fruit. It's not particularly deep, but not wimpy either. For short term drinking, and it would get a higher score if it displayed much ability to age, it likely to be a crowd pleaser. 85 points.

2001 Cabernet (Sticks) QPR Winner

Another fine bargain from Down Under.  Cheap cab that is fun to drink is almost impossible to find in California. Coming in at under $15 a bottle, what's not to like? Elegant and bright, it throws off nice red berry flavors. Now, it is not going to remind you of Cal cab or Bordeaux, and some of that cassis typicity or Rutherford dust is missing.   But in a fairly simple cab, it emits a lot of flavor in a well balanced presentation, and drinks easy. Again, my score is relatively low in light of the fact this is already completely ready to drink, and not a wine to cellar--but don't let that mislead you into thinking this is an inferior wine. At the moment, it will make a lot of folks very happy. 86 points.

1999 Shiraz (Oddfellows)
This rather flamboyant wine has a kirsch nose, and lotsa flashy notes. There are notes of licorice from new oak, and the wine seems to have some white pepper notes on the back. There's also a surprising amount of acid, enough to make me wonder if someone got a bit enthusiastic, but the oak and creamy fruit manage to hold their own. For many, this will be a crowd pleaser, easy, fun. For others, it will be stereotypical Oz shiraz. It certainly has many factors in its favor. Your mileage may vary depending.  Probably comes in at mid-20s pricing. 86-88 points.

2000 Shiraz "Langhorne Creek" (Brothers in Arms)
This should run in the upper $20s, maybe low 30s,  in terms of price. This is a big mouthful of wine, not heavy, but very intense. There is a welcome hit of tannin, then supple, blueberry tinged fruit. The sweet fruit almost obscures the tannin and I have to think a couple of years of cellaring will help this come into balanced. I like the prospects here, but I'm admittedly not certain as to how good this gets. 89-91 points.

2000 Shiraz "St. Jakobi" (Dutschke) QPR Winner
Smooth, elegant, well balanced and charming, this starts off seemingly well integrated, but shows a burst of tannin, somewhat astringent,  on the finish. The fruit is sweet, the wine seems fat and cheerful, and when all is said and done, I'd expect this to integrate well with a couple of years of cellaring.  Probably comes in at mid-20s pricing.  88-90 points.

2001 Shiraz "Baroota" (Hazy Blur) QPR Winner
Smooth and creamy, this is beautifully balanced. It is laced with vanillin notes from new oak, a bit too much for me, but also sports fragrant, very sweet, lovely fruit.  I had to admire the way this wine was stuffed with fruit--yet balanced. It keeps its footing well. If the oak calms down or integrates, it could be a beauty. Probably comes in at mid-20s pricing.  90-92 points.

2001 Shiraz "Springflat" (Wild Duck Creek)
Well, it's young.  It is completely disjointed, too. It's very intense. It's coarse at times, harsh, and the acid seems out of whack. It  was frankly difficult to figure out where this was going, but the early signs weren't good. Too, this winery marches to its own beat at times, and often provokes strong reactions. So the first issue is whether you like their offbeat style. The second is whether this wine will represent it. Pricing is likely pretty expensive, probably upper-$30s, low $40s. Personally, I like almost any other shiraz on this page better. 85-87 points. 

2001 Cabernet "Kangaroo Isle" (Cape d'Estaing) QPR Winner

Pretty nice find! This is impeccably balanced, with real depth--but presented unobtrusively. There are some cassis notes, some dark cherry notes, and a touch of liveliness suffusing the fruit.  This should be priced in the low $20s--and it's a very attractive wine at that price. 89-91 points.

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Bordeaux  (except dessert/sparkling)
1989 Chateau Haut Brion
The only problem with this beauty is that we did not decant it nearly long enough. It opened silky and pure, pristine and pretty, but not stunning or deep. It kept evolving, gaining flesh and weight in the glass, and the fruit sweetened too. Never more than medium bodied, it nonetheless became more serious and brooding, but never lost that silky, sexy demeanor. Elegant and sensuous, this Haut Brion should please just about everyone who has ever liked Haut Brion. 93 points.

1982 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion
In so many respects, this was simply stunning. Deep, powerful and fleshy, lush and voluptuous, it had only one problem: a charred, burnt charcoal note that I associate with a wine that has been damaged. The evidence of good storage was pretty good--but that leaves lots of possibilities elsewhere, including international shipping. Certainly, in weight and depth, this hardly seemed like a wine that was too old. So, what else could it be? This needs to be retasted, and I do not consider this a representative bottle, but even with the off notes, it is worth remarking that it was a pretty fine wine. 89 points.

2000 Cambon La Pelouse QPR Winner   
This is one of the big values of the vintage! Remember my dictum: in great vintages: you can bottom feed. Lesser estates will get a lot of help from nature. Their lack of prestige means their prices won't be much higher. As a future, this was about $14 a bottle. It opens brooding and stern, a bit austere. It seems dense, and there are some mouthdrying tannins on the end. There isn't much velvet. Not much lushness. I admired it but wasn't really liking it. It took a good twenty minutes in the glass for fruit to pop through, and then it kept getting sweeter all the time. Very dark, it is juicier and juicier with air. Exceptional for the price. 89 points.

1998 Chateau Pavie
This has an extremely powerful nose of sweet plums and red berries, but the palate actually shows quite elegantly. Served from a half bottle, this wine was a bit dumb and flat at this point, but its weight increased with air, and it sweetened slowly. It turns tight, and shows off some structure, on the finish. The way some people have written about this wine, you would think it was an over the top monstrosity, instead of the smooth, lush but well balanced potion it is. With enough air, this will be a beauty in a few years. 94+ points.

1997 Gracia
Soft and friendly, pleasant but undistinguished, this wine is too light, and lacks depth and finish. You'd never know it was a new and heralded vin de garage. In this vintage, there just wasn't enough "there" there for the wine to show anything impressive. It is not unpleasant, but you don't buy vin de garage to simulate a $15 cru bourgeois. Too light, too short. 84 points.

1996 Chateau Lynch Bages
A beauty. Classic Pauillac, classic Lynch Bages, fine Bordeaux, another 1996 Left Bank winner.  This wine has good depth, although not spectacular, and it is impeccably balanced.  It is everything you want in Bordeaux, flavors of cassis, a touch of lead pencil, some velvet on the texture, and also a touch of lively brightness on the finish. This, served from magnum, actually seemed to be drinking fairly well now, although it was decanted. After an initial show of muscle it showed about as much charm and elegance as a Pauillac is capable of mustering. At times gentle, at times penetrating, this utterly pleasing wine is a big winner. 92 points.

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Burgundy  (except dessert/sparkling)
1995 Puligny-Montrachet  "Champs-Canet" (L. Carillon)

This is drinking beautifully now. Never a powerful wine, there were moments in its history when it seemed sharp. It was beautiful young, and it has resolved beautifully now. Soft and elegant, it retains a nice touch of spice and acidity, but has also developed a smoother, rounded texture that has just a touch of cream.  This wine will never impress anyone with its depth, but its grace, flavor, and subtle persistence make it a winner. 90 points.

1999 Clos Vougeot (Domaine Bertagna)
This estate has garnered lots of attention of late, and with some good cause. I'm not sure, though, that it has jumped into the top echelon. This Clos Vougeot is lovely and fragrant, but also a touch soft and easy, perhaps needing a bit better depth and finish. That per se would not be an awful thing, but the price here is likely to be around $100 a bottle for good but not really inspiring Burgundy.  Nice, but the angels were not singing, and at $100 a bottle retail at the moment, maybe I need to hear a little melody in the back. 90 points. 

1992 Chambolle-Musigny "La Combe d'Orveau" (Perrot-Minot)

I wasn't surprised that this wine cracked finally, with the fruit drying out and the tannins taking over. I was a bit surprised, though, that it showed relatively well for the first half hour. It was always a bit austere, and not showing a lot of flavor, and the tannins were a bit too aggressive, but at least for a while, its weight and texture gave some hope of better things to come. Alas, it slid downhill, and demonstrated that it was losing fruit quickly.  Drink now or never. 79 points.

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California/USA  (except dessert/sparkling)
1996 Merlot (Paloma)
There's a hint of toasty oak up front, but this wine has many faces to show. At another point, it seems a bit too old for the vintage date. At still another juncture, I think it is much more St. Emilion than California, showing earthy notes, restraint and some brightness. It improved with air, throwing off some of the must and aged notes, and showing a bit of vibrancy. It did seem to finish a bit short though, and ultimately was a bit compact. This would be a fun wine to stick blind in a tasting of right bank, relatively mature French wines. 88 points.

2000 "Angelico" (Bacio Divino)
Bright and medium bodied, there was a lot here to like.  The wine is exuberant and bursting with flavor, and I found the cherry and red berry notes extremely appealing, and tasty. It was a bit annoying that the wine seemed a bit shy on depth though, and a bit too easy at this age. It was a tough vintage.  This isn't cheap--about $460 a case absent discounts.  Of course, in California these days, that's a mere mid-level wine and fair value.  I enjoyed it--you'll have to decide if it's worth the bucks. 87-88 points.

1999 Cabernet (Franus)
Considering California Cal cab pricing, this is actually a pretty good deal at about $420 a case, cheaper than the Angelico, and a notch better.  Deeper than the Angelico above,  it shows a lot of flavor, too. It seems more like a merlot at times, chocolatey, and ripe, and a touch modest in its structure, but I loved the lush texture, the general balance and the persistent flavors. It is a touch shy on depth, but still respectable.  88-90 points.

2000 Merlot (Paloma)
Interesting. This winery certainly marches to its own beat. The '96, above, seemed far more French than American. This tends to shoot for the elegant, too. It's ripe and has lovely flavors, but it is also very bright. Ultimately, it comes a bit undone by, and seems a touch too tart for, the modest concentration levels. This wasn't the easiest vintage in the world. Those who like elegance will enjoy this, but I suspect the winery can do better in other years. At a pricey $500 or so a case, this would be hard to recommend. On this very page, you could be just as happy with the Sticks cabernet at a fraction of the price. 85-87 points.

2000 Chardonnay (Seavey)
Smooth, but not oaky, this actually finishes a bit steely and restrained. It also finishes a bit short. But I loved the smooth, oily mouthfeel of this wine, and the way it managed to show some sharp edges at the same time. This is an interesting wine, that seems to straddle several styles. Those who object to overoaked, new world chards may find a lot to like here--but it is not so steely and forbidding and acidic that new world drinkers will be turned off. Low to mid $20s in price, and once it's over $25, it will be a difficult price point.   87-88 points.

1994 Pinot Noir "Case" (Talbott)
This early foray into pinot noir by Talbott (they also produce another cuvée called "Logan") was a wine I really liked a lot at the time. I suspected it wouldn't age all that well, but I can at least say the fruit here is still fresh. That said, the fruit has also thinned too much, and while it has nice red berry notes, it is far too light and a long way from how sexy it was when it was younger. This is a pleasant wine on the downslide. 84 points.

1998 Pinot Noir "Evenstad" (Domaine Serene)
Lovely. This muscular pinot opens intense and focused, tight and powerful. It shows some tannin underneath, and some acid everywhere. Yet for all that, the fruit fight back and holds its ground effortlessly. Aeration brings it into nice balance, and the pleasing red currant notes, roast cherry notes, delivery lots of flavor. This has excellent depth but it is not a fruit bomb--don't misunderstand. If anything, it is a bit stern, and not terribly velvety. The brightness literally makes your mouth water. For all of its powerful structural components, it is actually approachable, but  I would suspect this would be significantly better in three years. 90 points.

1999 Pinot Noir "Russian River Valley" (Merry Edwards)
This dances across the palate brightly at first, but aeration gentles the wine, and makes it lusher. The pristine raspberry notes deliver constant flavor, and the fruit is delectable. Medium bodied, it seems very young, but in very nice balance. Easy and pretty, this is not a profound wine, but it is very pleasing. 88 points.

1998 Cabernet (Harlan Estate)
The prices keep going up for cult wines. Even in good vintages, what can they do to justify it? In bad vintages...well gosh. This opens up with a considerable hit of new oak, but it is amazing how fast the wine absorbs that. The color is highly extracted, looking like ink was poured in. Yet the wine goes nowhere, despite decanting.  At first it is way too tannic, and when the tannins calm a bit, the acids pop out and seem too aggressive. Despite the aggressive structural components, the wine's fruit seems a bit too mature for just five years old, which gives me pause. Will this ever achieve a pleasing balance? My guess is no. Aeration did bring out some sweetness in the fruit, and the wine at times did a nice imitation of Bordeaux, showing some earthy notes for character. Still, for this reputation, for this price, you're left wondering....is this all there is? 88 points.

1994 Cabernet "Hillside Select" (Shafer)
Lovely, elegant, subtly powerful, this is a beauty of a cab. It opens sweet, but a bit light, sexy but not showing a lot of intensity or depth. It kept picking up weight in the glass, evolving constantly, getting sweeter. And that's even after decanting. Bright as well as sweet, increasingly persistent as well as lush, this wine covered all the bases. Elegant and seductive. 95 points.

1997 Syrah "Imposter McCoy" (Sine Qua Non)
This was a revelation. I took a sip, and all I could think of was that it was dead ringer for a Chave Hermitage. It had good depth, but beautiful balance, lots of gamey notes, a touch of garrigue, a lot of bacon fat, a hint of strawberry. It was a bit rustic. It was most of all--more than an imposter. It seemed like the real deal, a Rhone-style syrah in California. I confess to never having anything quite like this from California before. If you are a bigger fan of the more pristine, sweet fruit styles, this will not be your cup of tea. If you like those gamey, rustic Rhones, from Jamets to Chaves, try this. It's amazing. 95 points.

1997 Pinot Noir "Marcassin Vineyard" (Marcassin)
The winemaker here also makes the burly Martinelli Pinots. This has no relationship to that style. This is pinot all the way, elegant, graceful, fragrant and flavorful.  This is a wine that sneaks up on you, that starts light and bright, and gradually expands and evolves in the glass, putting on weight, emitting a stronger nose and creating ever more flavor. At the beginning I thought it was OK. Towards the end of the relatively brief time I had with it, I was far more enthused, and I particularly loved the increasingly velvety texture, the sensual mouthfeel, and the persistent cherry flavors. I'm not sure this will ever justify the hype surrounding this highly allocated wine, but it's pretty good pinot and I like it far better than the 1996. 90+ points.

1997 Chardonnay "Cuvée Indigene" (Peter Michael)
This is a lot of fun. Sure, there's some oak, a creamy texture, some vanilla notes. But there is also spice, fine depth of fruit, some hazelnut lees nuances. The texture is oily and mouthcoating. It all comes together rather well, ultimately, to make a very pleasing, flavorful chardonnay.  Pleasing, lingering flavors make this a winner. 91 points.

2001 Pinot Noir "Sonoma" (Castle Rock) QPR Winner
Say a word of thanks to Castle Rock. In an era when wine prices have gone mad, Castle Rock makes wines that rarely exceed $10 a bottle--and are actually good.  This is not intended to age--drink up, drink now--but it is an elegant pinot with a nice rich mouthfeel for its class, and decent depth. It is not perhaps suffused with pinot character, but considering that places that buy in volume will bring this in under $10, it's a pretty solid wine, cleanly and solidly built and very pleasing, with red fruit notes. I do not think this will age at all, so it has to lose points, but for dinner tonight--it's pretty nice wine. 84 points. 

2001 Cabernet "Napa" (Castle Rock) QPR Winner
An even better value than the Pinot Noir is the Napa Cab, at the same price. It is a touch light, but by no means thin. It is supple and nicely textured, with some velvety aspects. If it is a bit restrained in flavor, it is nonethless a solidly made cab at a price, around $10, that is hard to beat in today's cabernet market. Drink now, and  it loses points for that reason, but don't be deceived. If bought fresh and well stored, it is a nice buy.  85 points.

2001 Zinfandel "Dry Creek" (Castle Rock) QPR Winner
This may be in fact the best deal of the three. With an appealing dark chocolate nuance, this elegant zin provides beautiful texture and mouthfeel, and more typicity than the cab or pinot noir, in  an inexpensive bottle. Superb depth for the price, which underscores what a fine value this is. Very nice. 87 points. 

2001 Pinot Noir "Clos Pepe" (Loring Wine Company); 2001 Pinot Noir "Garys' Vineyard" (Loring Wine Company); 2001 Pinot Noir "Rancho Ontiveros" (Loring Wine Company)
This relatively new winery made a splash with the 2000s, so let's talk about the anticipated "step up" 2001s together. First, they ARE a step up. The 2000 that impressed me was the Garys', and in 2001 that takes a big jump up, while the other 2001s probably are better than the whole 2000 lineup (with the caveat that I mark the 2001 Ontiveros down for lesser ability to develop with cellaring, or at least that's my educated guess...). The Ontiveros is cheapest,  around $25, and more aimed at early drinking, although all of these wines are remarkably approachable. There is a tomato soup aspect to this wine, by which I mean, the bright raspberry notes of pinot noir has expanded, matured and broadened, showing some tomato notes. The wine certainly seems a bit farther along than age two. All that said, it a nicely wrought pinot, with soft texture, and enough acidity to retain some lively, mouthwatering qualities. In some respects it is a smaller scaled version of the Garys' Vineyard, below. The nose is redolent of sweet cherries, although that oxidizes a bit on the palate. This seems ready to drink now, pretty much. 85 points.   The Clos Pepe demonstrates the difference between the entry level Ontiveros and something with higher aspirations. It starts off downright intense, with aggressive tannins. It is tightly wound and mouthgripping. However, for a very young wine, it comes around pretty quickly with air, and is very approachable, almost surprisingly so given its aggressive attack.  The dark cherry fruit balances out the structure gradually, and if anything is even slightly fading at the end of the evening. This is a nice wine, but as with the 2000, it just seems to be to be a bit short of the best this winery does. 88 points.  The Garys' Vineyard, as  in the 2000 lineup, is in my opinion the biggest winner, the deepest, most concentrated wine, and the one that develops the most. The tannins here are less aggressive than the Clos Pepe, but the depth is better, and the rich, blackberry-cherry fruit is delectable. The wine is beautifully balanced, and it resolves to a bright, elegant core of fruit, that is soft but lively. It is a little surprising again how easily this drinks at age two, which is one caveat I have about these wines.  Who knows how a new winery does when it comes to aging without track records?  For fun, I kept about 4 ounces in the fridge overnight. It was better the next day, and more flavorful, and sweeter. If anything, it was more elegant, too. Of the three, I'd say this is the deepest, the most complex and the most complete wine they've produced, easily. It is also the one to get carried away with.  It is always perilous to go out on a limb with a new winery, but to my mind this is something to get really interested in.  How well it ages, a question I have, gives it the final score. Let it show this well in 2010, and then I'll be excited for real. 90-92 points.

2000 Pinot Noir "Reserve" (Martinelli)
Dense,  with hints of brambles and briar, this has an excellent finish, good concentration and nice weight. That is never the issue with Martinelli; the question is whether the wine will be too oaky, alcoholic or clumsy for pinot noir. This seems to handle its weight better than in some years, and I found myself warming up to it. The fruit coats your mouth, but doesn't seem overblown. There is a touch of game and earth for complexity. There is also a touch of toast from oak that I disliked, but I would admit that it seems less than in other years--so maybe some cellaring will show it integrating well. On the whole, this is pretty nicely done.  91 points.

2000 Pinot Noir "Blue Slide Ridge" (Martinelli)
The first thing I thought was, whew, has there ever been a pinot this inky black? The nose was redolent of kirsch and rather flamboyant, and the wine sported a host of warring components, some toasty oak, and some spicy tannins. Yet, it integrated fairly well, fairly quickly. I liked the dark cherry fruit, and there were hits of acid on the end. As it came together, the wine projected a sweet, welcoming feel. More air, though, brought some menthol and more aggressive tannins. For all of that, the finish was shorter than Reserve, even if this was a touch sexier.  89 points. 

1997 Pinot Noir "Reserve" (Kent Rasmussen)
Bright and well balanced, this is delicious and lively. Raspberry notes suffuse the wine, which is aging gracefully. The wine is supple and gentle, but the brightness keeps it lively and vibrant. Not the biggest pinot, or the deepest, but very nice. 90 points.

2000 Pinot Noir "Carneros" (Kent Rasmussen)
A lovely new release. There is a touch of game, and the wine seems distinctive. It is a bit too soft for its youth, perhaps, a bit too easy and supple, but it has good weight and velvet on the texture. I'm not sure this will get to greatness, but it has elegance and charm in abundance. 88-89 points.

2001 Chardonnay "Russian River" (Ramey Cellars)
Gripping in its intensity, this shows heavy lees influence, nuts and length. I like the persistence and attack, as this is a wine that seeks to make an impression on structure, not just fruit and oak. This is not due out until April, 2003, and will likely be priced in the upper 20s, low thirties, which is pretty fair. Ramey's 2001 lineup was very impressive. 90-92 points.

2001 Chardonnay "Carneros" (Ramey Cellars)
This has a great, nutty nose, and shows rounder and riper than the intense Russian River. It seems to show better, too, at the moment, and seems a bit more approachable. The sexy fruit is delightful and delicious. 90-92 points.

2000 Chardonnay "Hudson Vineyard" (Ramey Cellars)
This is the priciest of the Ramey offerings, running about $600 a case---not that you may get a case, considering that there are only 730 cases made. Although this is rarer, it is not necessarily better. I liked the tropical fruit nuances, and in the middle there was some gripping acid. In weight and nuance at the moment, though, I actually had a slight preference for the two 2001s. 88-90 points.

2001 Chardonnay "Quarry Vineyard" (Aubert)
This, and the next wine, are April 2003 releases, and are likely to come in around $45-$50. To me, taken together,  these are a significant step up from the debut release from Aubert. This is the more precise of the two wines, higher acid, more intense, piercing at times. It is medium weight, and sports a lovely, lingering finish. 89-91 points.

2001 Chardonnay "Ritchie Vineyard" (Aubert)
The Ritchie is another matter entirely, as compared to the more precise and focused Quarry. The Ritchie is certainly a bit easier to taste at the moment, but is richer and more opulent, incredibly flavorful, and delicious. The fruit coats your mouth and lingers. To some extent, the difference between these two wines is a style preference, but I had to give the nod to this sexy wine, fat and lovely, but with enough acid to impart structure, too.  91-93 points.

1999 Chardonnay "Diamond "T" (Talbott)
Traditionally one of my favorite California chards, this seemed predicted to come in at pricing around $55-60-ish. Not exactly cheap. But certainly one of California's most consistent chards. This shows very heavy lees notes, with an acid attack underneath, but the star of the show here is certainly the opulent fruit, smooth, oily and mouth coating. Another nice vintage from Diamond T. 90-92 points.

2000 Chardonnay "Diamond "T" Cuvée Audrey" (Talbott)
This is a special cuvée which has an extremely limited release--virtually no one will ever get any, so consider this an intellectual exercise. I thought this was just gorgeous, simply put. Surprisingly soft, but utterly luscious, this was ripe but beautifully balanced, clean and harmonious. There was a hint of melon on the nose, and the finish was appropriately long. One of the best chards you'll never get any of, unfortunately. 92-94 points. 

1998 Pinot Noir "Mark Bradford" (Domaine Serene)
Rich, intense and very concentrated, this impressive Oregon pinot looks like a big winner. It is very impressive in every respect. Tightly wound and well structured, it is also chock full of fruit and flavor. It finishes bright and lively. 91-94 points.

2001 Pinot Noir "Santa Lucia Highlands" (Siduri)
Nuanced by dark cherries and plums, this shows some earth, too, balanced by very ripe fruit. It is also very well structured. This is a blend of Garys' Vineyard and Pisoni fruit, and those are areas that are beginning to make statements for pinot noir. This should sell for roughly $30 a bottle. It should cellar well, and drink beautifully around 2005-2008, though it is not wholly unapproachable yet. I'd expect it to close down briefly. 90-92 points.

2001 Pinot Noir "Hirsch" (Siduri)
Bright, with lots of cherry and then raspberry notes, this shows great fruit, but with a more lively demeanor than the Santa Lucia. The Santa Lucia provides darker fruit, too.  Which you prefer, despite the higher price and prestige of the Hirsch, may just turn out to be a matter of personal preference. I think there's more bang for the buck with the Santa  Lucia, but the flavor difference rather than the $7 or so a bottle will probably determine which you buy. Despite the famous name, this was really my least favorite of the day, and I would expect it to be at the bottom of this point score range.  90-92 points.

2001 Pinot Noir "Cargasacchi Vineyard" (Siduri)
This very limited release, 188 cases, should cost in the low to mid $40s per bottle when all is said and done, if you can find any. It is tightly wound, with some tannins asserting themselves at the end. The fruit is a bit muted, and of the three 2001 Siduris here, this is the one that needs the most cellaring in my view, and is the least approachable young. This is rather intense, a bit closed, and particularly ungiving on the finish at the moment. It should be a super wine when it hits peak, maybe around 2008. 91-94 points.

2000 Pinot Noir "Reserve" (Cristom)
This chameleon starts out focused with nice intensity, but also a bit soft around the edges. It doesn't end that way, though, as it becomes rather more muscular with air. This is deep, and chock full of fruit, and I suspect this a wine that will close down at some point--it may in fact be on its way. There is a nice lingering finish, and I think this should evolve nicely with a couple of years of cellaring. 89-91 points.

2001 Syrah "Que Syrah Vineyard" (Failla)
This wine, from Erhen Jordan, the winemaker at Turley and wife Anne-Marie Failla is rather interesting. It starts out bright, but adds game for complexity and distinction. There are raspberry notes, and the wine overall seems Rhone-y, if a bit tart. This is a bit young and disjointed, and I think it has a nice future, but I would like to see the acid integrate. This will probably run in the mid-to upper thirties in pricing. 88-90 points.

2000 Cabernet "Napa" (Karl Lawrence)
This has a nice plum-nuanced nose at first that I liked a lot. The flavors follow through on a medium weight wine, and seem clean and delectable. There a bit of a zesty finish.  The wine is a bit compact and not the deepest ever, and may have to trade in charm rather than intensity, but maybe it will put on some weight in the cellar, too.  This has a limited production, around 1000 cases, and by California cab standards, the pricing is fair, about $500 or so a case, give or take, depending on regional variations. 88-90 points.

1996 Zinfandel "Moore" (Turley)
It's hard to taste this wine and listen to the ranting and raving about Turley being over the top. Particularly with some age (and one might remember that wines are not "final" on release...), this wine has acquired elegance and focus, at least for zin. It is silky smooth, with oak and caramel well in the background. Still flavorful, it is carefully balanced, mingling tannin, acid, and fruit beautifully. Well put together, but perhaps thinning just a touch. This is a good time to drink this. 90 points.

1996 Insignia (Phelps)
Year-in, year-out, this has to be one of the "feel good" wines in California and the world. It has a merlot-ish feel most years, producing a lush texture, and is fruit forward always. It is inevitably velvety, inevitably sweet. Yet, traditionalists tend to like this wine, too. It is not a fruit bomb, and, always has a touch of restraint to go with its delectable fruit. And it ages better than you might think (the 1987  I had recently is drinking very well). So, what's left to say? Typical Insignia, nuanced by chocolate, delicious, soft and sexy. 92 points.

1992 Les Pavots (Peter Michael)
This opened a bit dull and flat, but actually improved some. As it aired out it seemed like maturing Bordeaux, and had a certain earthy character and elegance that everyone liked.  All that said--the wine has thinned quite a bit, and is a bit short. It is time to drink up. It also bears no resemblance to the big, bold Pavots like the 94 and 97, and remains a touch flat.  Still, if it doesn't quite live up to its current rep or price tag, it was a pretty nice drink. 89 points.

1994 Zinfandel "Monte Rosso" (Ravenswood)
Stunning. This opens with a touch of mint, from oak, which quickly and mostly integrates. But the big show here is the gorgeous fruit, lush, voluptuous, velvety and mouthcoating. This wine is not as intense as it was young, but it is still pristine and ripe, and the fruit is now open--gloriously open. Great stuff. 93 points.

2000/2001 Zinfandel "Hayne Vineyard" (Chase Family Cellars)
Let's take these two together. The 1999 Hayne attracted a lot of criticism from people who were disappointed in its depth and simplicity, given its high price tag ($40) and the famous name of "Hayne Vineyard" that Turley has made into one of the most coveted zin bottlings. I recently upgraded my own review of the '99, which improved a bit with cellaring, and began to display a certain charm and elegance, but there was a kernel of truth to the critiques. The 2000 and 2001 show continued progress, though. The 2000, a weaker vintage, is about the same weight of the '99, but is a bit livelier, bright, and even more flavorful, although that may change when the wine settles down.  It is a bit short, too, though. Although it may not be that much better than the '99, if at all, in the context of the vintage it is a pretty reasonable performance. 86-88 points. The 2001, however, tasted as a barrel sample, would seem to be a big step up. Finally, there is some intensity, some muscle, and the prospect of distinction. Given that this is a barrel sample and a big tasting at that, I'll be conservative in my review, but I think the 2001 is finally where Chase gets over the top. 89-91 points.

2000 Zinfandel "Felicia Old Vine" (Chiarello Family Vineyards)
This fascinating venture comes from Tra Vigne's Michael Chiarello, and 85 year old wines. People involved at one point or another include Ehren Jordan, Turley's winemaker, and Thomas Brown (Outpost). So the ingredients seem to be in place for something special, and to boot, these are only 200 case productions at the moment. The price is probably around the mid forties.  I thought this was the most interesting zin I've had in some time. Not necessarily the best, but certainly very different. There were nuances of strawberry and game, maybe a touch of brett. It seemed to have a Northern Rhone feel to it. This will not appeal to everyone, but those who like it may like it a LOT.  89-91 points.

2001 Zinfandel "Juvenile" (Turley Wine Cellars)
Soft and plummy, laced with rhubarb, this projects a lot of velvet, and an easy, ready-to-roll demeanor. I'd drink it now. This wine seems uncomplicated, but it is delicious and exceptionally approachable. It is Turley's entry level wine, and while it doesn't have the depth or structure of the big boys, it is always charming. 87-89 points.

2001 Zinfandel "Old Vines" (Turley Wine Cellars)
Take the Juvenile, and add acid, grip, intensity and depth. The Juvenile drinks a lot better at the moment though--this muscular OV bottling is a bit disjointed and needs some time to integrate. Still, it seems like a candidate for the best OV in some time, and you may find after a two years of cellaring that you didn't get much extra bang for the buck by trading up to some of Turley's single vineyard bottlings. 90-92 points.

2001 Zinfandel "Duarte" (Turley Wine Cellars)
This Duarte, for instance, seems to me to be less interesting than the OV this year. It is rounder, softer, and better integrated already, but less intense, and not much, deeper. For bang for the buck, I'd take the 2001 OV--and I in fact prefer it in general without regard to price. (The differential is roughly $10 a bottle, although I have not seen the current price list yet). 88-90 points.

2001 Zinfandel "Mead Ranch" (Turley Wine Cellars) 
Rough and disjointed at the moment, this very intense zin shows sharp edges but also delectable raspberry fruit. It's very ripe...but also a touch harsh. This simply means it needs some cellaring though. The wine has fine depth, muscle and flavor. It should be a winner with two or three years of cellaring. 91-92 points.

1987, 1994, 1999 2000, 2001 Cigare Volant (Bonny Doon)
This unusual opportunity for a vertical concerning one of the USA's trademark, pioneer Rhone Rangers came at a trade tasting, and brought many pleasant surprises. Start with the 1987. Is this really a wine you expected to hold well? Well, it did, although admittedly it was brought by the winery from its cellars. This shows more elegantly with age than in its youth (I bought it on release!), and has a touch of garrigue and bacon that gives it distinction, a touch of sweet strawberry fruit. The wine is certainly on the downside in the sense that it is thinning and lacks intensity, but it has a gentle, sensual charm. You can't dislike it. Drink up. 88 points. The 1994 suffers by contrast. I wouldn't have thought I would have said it needed more time! Still, this is a pretty nice wine. It shows a lot more weight than the 87 at this point, and it is sturdy and focused. It seems a bit dull by comparison, given that the '87 is so gloriously open and fragrant. Still, this is a wine in prime time and still on the upswing. I did not have enough time to sit with it, hence my equivocation. If it opens up, and I think it will... 90? points. The 1999 is tannic, with a gripping finish, and very primary.  It is well stuffed and sturdy, but needing some serious cellar time to come together.  It seems to have a lot of key elements in place to age well. 88-90 points.  The 2000 is soft, and lacking in intensity, although there is a hit of acid on the end. It seems a bit too easy, and not of the quality of the 1999 or 1994. 85-87 points. The 2001 looks like a winner. Take the soft texture of the 2000, the flavor of the 1987, and the grip of the 1999. It could be a big winner. It is surely very promising. I especially liked the beautiful cascade of flavor. 89-91 points. There was also a 2002 barrel sample that was soft, and grapey and hard to evaluate at this time.

2000 Syrah "Lauterbach Hill" (Pax)
This premium ($35-ish) syrah didn't do it for me. I loved the kirsch and chambord nose, but not much followed through on the palate. The flamboyant aspect calmed down fast--too fast--leaving very little. The wine had not much in the way of depth, and the big hit of tannin at the end was a little worrisome considering how thin it seemed.  It put on a touch of weight, and sweetened a bit with air to the point where I actually began to enjoy it a bit, but on the whole, it seemed like a big time presentation package, but the contents didn't meet expectations. Where's the beef? 85 points.

1999 Cabernet (Constant)
Running maybe about $65 a bottle, this isn't cheap--but the way Cal cabs are priced these days, it is probably fairly priced. It's super. Intense and well structured, this wine is also incredibly flavorful. It seems a bit compact at first, but gradually expands, excelling in most every area except pure fleshiness for those who like the fruit bomb, jammier styles. Still, make no mistake, there is plenty of stuffing here, along with herb nuances, and fine balance. A beautiful Cal cab that plays with the top level, and seems to have a price drop in my region.  92-94 points.

1999 Cabernet (Far Niente)
A very nice Far Niente....I liked the way this was put together. Its balance was impeccable. It had grace and charm. The tannins were ripe, the touch of cassis was there--it was classic cab in so many ways. All that said, it seemed a step short in terms of depth and finish, almost a bit too elegant. I still enjoyed this a lot--the problem being its hefty price tag, probably around $100 per bottle.  89-91 points.

1999 Cabernet "Rock Cairn" (Nickel & Nickel)
This was my favorite in the 1999 lineup from this label, owned by Far Niente. It had great purity of flavor and persistence in that regard, a pretty little red berry note on the finish. It was nicely structured, although not per se powerful. Its main intensity was the up front fruitiness and flavor. Still, very nice. The only disappointment came with the price tag, around $75 a bottle. 88-90 points.

1999 Cabernet "Tench" (Nickel & Nickel)
Pleasing red fruit flavors start this wine off well. The tannins are supple, and the whole is fairly pleasing. It lacks some of the intensity of the Rock Cairn, above, and some of the brilliant fruit, but it is a pleasing cabernet, albeit a bit simple and not likely to make anyone think twice. The problem is again the price though, running around $65 a bottle.  At that point, it is a really bad buy for the bucks. 87-89 points.

1991 Cabernet "Andrus Reserve" (Pine Ridge)
The real deal. Young and zesty, you could never guess that this beauty was 12 years old. Perhaps the only hint is that the fruit has thinned a bit, and it is on the lighter, more elegant side. I did wish for a bit more depth.  But the flavor is simply intense, and pure, the fruit seems young and pristine. It is hard to believe time has dulled it so little.  For those who prefer a focused, elegant cab, this will score big, and some will like it a lot more even than I did. 91 points. 

1998 Cabernet Reserve (Groth)
This is classic cab in so many respects, and it shows not a trace of the heavy new American oak Groth used in the 80s. (A lot of California wineries have awakened in this regard...)  As Groth tends to show, this is tightly wound, and on the elegant side, not particularly deep or heavy. In a blind tasting, you might guess Bordeaux, and in truth this seems to be maturing fast, and seems a bit older than its label would suggest.  The problem, as with so many wines on this page, is not that it is a bad wine, or one that I did not enjoy--but the price tag seems wildly out of place for what it is.  I anticipate this will sell at retail for about $140 a bottle. Ouch. Frankly, I enjoyed the $15 Cambon la Pelouse Bordeaux on this page more. This might open a bit with cellaring but I would not anticipate much improvement. The score range is due to its being tasted at a big trade tasting.  86-88 points.

2000 Cabernet "Howell Mountain" (La Jota)
This is the cheaper wine--"only" $40 or so. In this off vintage, it is simply not up to snuff. It wins points for some Cal Cab typicity, but it is thin and astringent, and diluted. For a $40 wine, this just isn't close to being what it should. For all of that, it is pleasant, correct and tasty. But, hey, $40 has to get you something more. 83-85 points. 

2000 Cabernet "Anniversary" (La Jota)
The La Jota Anniversary bottling has made some of the finest wines I've ever had, but in this vintage, it is what the regular bottling should be, and nothing more. About $75-$80 per bottle. This adds some depth that is missing from the Howell Mountain bottling, but nothing like what a premium wine should have. It is simply too thin, and the substantial tannins do not bode well for its balance in the long run. Again, not a bad wine. But a simply awful QPR in a bad vintage. You will have to cellar this but I'm not sure the balance will reward the cellaring.  85-87 points.

2000 Syrah "Rodney's Vineyard" (Rosenblum)
Medium to light bodied, this lively syrah is sweet, sexy and flavorful. Ok. It's not the most profound syrah you will ever see, even by California standards, nor the deepest or longest, but I suspect that, for short term drinking, this wine, bursting with blueberry fruit, will be a crowd pleaser.  I wouldn't cellar this--what it has, is best enjoyed young. Drink now and at its best to 2006. 87 points.

2001 Pinot Noir "Garnet" (Saintsbury) QPR Winner 
A fine Garnet, which year in, year out is one of the best cheap pinots you can find.  Fragrant, soft, and chock full of easy flavor, as always, this pinot is ready to roll now, and should be drunk young, now to 2004, preferably. Easy, but fun. Makes up in charm and flavor what it loses in depth and ageworthiness. Don't be deceived by the score--it can't score big with a wine this easy, and unable to age well. 86 points.

1999 Pinot Noir "Brown Ranch" (Saintsbury)
Saintsbury always makes elegant wines, silky and smooth. What they sometimes lack is depth. When they fail, it is usually in the mid-palate or finish. This Brown Ranch does well, shows velvet and decent depth, and nice balance as always. You will appreciate its elegance. For all that, given the wine's hefty price tag, it is a little underwhelming, not terribly deep, nor striking. It's a good solid wine, but the price leaves you wanting a bit more.  There's a lot of that going around, as the cabernets on this page demonstrate.  90 points.

2000 Cabernet "Coach" (Fisher)
This is another pleasant, reasonably enjoyable cab that is annoying only for its price tag. It has pleasing red berry notes, a touch of velvet, a touch of a bright finish. It is clean, correct, and straight ahead, a middle of the road wine, and it finishes short. Alas, it is not an entry level wine, and retail prices will be in the mid-60s. This vintage is looking tougher and tougher, and this one does not outperform expectations. 86-88 points.

1999 Cabernet "Select" (Juslyn)
This is a Bordeaux ringer, with a mid-weight body, and a focused core. This adds a bit of much needed intensity over the (not so cheap either) Juslyn 99 "Napa" (the Napa is around $40, and this "Select" is around $65). Both are asking a bit much in my view, and aren't great values. However, I did appreciate the demeanor of this wine,  its fruit was delicious,  and its overall structure well balanced.  I'll be interested to see if this shows some development with a few years of cellaring; that's what would seal a good score for this wine. 89-91 points.

1992 Monte Bello (Ridge)
Disappointing.  Thinning and uninspiring, this showed some blackberries and occasional elegance, but not much typicity in cabernet flavors, nor much depth or finish. Pleasant enough, but from this bottle, you'd never guess this was a premium and famous Cal cab/meritage. 85 points.

1997 "Padrone" (Signorello)
What can you say? Another triple digit priced Cal cab that is nice, but ....triple digits?  This is actually a blend of cab and merlot. It opens sharp, sweetens fast.  It is mid-weight in its core, and tinged with that touch of caramel that you sometimes see on very ripe (some would say overripe) zins.  This drank well for awhile, but seemed undistinguished. A gasp, mine, accompanied the revelation of the price tag, right around the same time this relatively young wine seemed to show some cracks.  Well, at least I didn't spend the money. 87 points.

1992 Cabernet "Spring Mountain" (Barnett)
A bit flat and metallic on the finish, this odd wine seemed a bit sour, a bit astringent...a bit too much of everything but solid fruit. As the fruit sweetened a bit with air, but not in a good way, we debated descriptors for flavor and settled on Robitussin cough syrup. That was perhaps unkind to Robitussin. I hope this was an off bottle. It was not what I would call a friendly wine. 79 points.

1998 Cabernet (Hourglass)
Big, rich and intense, this wine shows oodles of sweet fruit, and an opulent, creamy, chocolately note that I rather liked. There was a certain coarseness to this, a sense that there wasn't much underneath, not much ability to improve with age, not much real depth, as opposed to showy fruit. Still, particularly after a shaky evening of underperforming and overpriced cabs, this was at least delicious and mouthfilling. 89 points.

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Canada  (except dessert/sparkling)
1998 "Trivalente" (Pillitteri)
About $45 Canadian, this Bordeaux blend at least has the virtue of tasting a bit like Bordeaux. Some liked its tobacco notes, touches of game, cigar box. All those things were there, along with a touch of brett. Alas, the wine was a touch too thin, and seemed too acidic for the concentration levels of the fruit.  Sharp, bright and a bit too disjointed,  this got the cadence and demeanor of Bordeaux down, but failed to deliver on balance, depth and finish.  Sort of like a guy in drag. :) Not bad, though for a red wine made this far North.  84 points.

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Chile (except dessert/sparkling)
1999 "Clos Apalta" (Casa Lapostolle)
This cab/merlot/malbec blend gives you the cassis at the outset, in a sharp, focused wine. There's plenty of intensity and structure, and this will greatly reward three or four more years of cellaring. It comes off, finally, as relatively bright, with perky red berry notes. It is interesting to note the difference between this and the Argentinian malbec on this page. The latter is jammy and succulent; this is focused and intense. I like them both very much , though this one is more ageworthy, if slightly less charming. The big issue though is the price--this is almost double the Malbec.  This should sell for around $55. 89-91 points.

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Dessert / Sparkling wines
2001 Riesling Eiswein "Munsterer Pittersberg" (Kruger-Rumpf)
In this superlative vintage for drier wines, Kruger-Rumpf made one of the finest --and best value--eisweins (in the $40s, per 375ml). This is just decadent. Very sweet, with an amazing finish, it has a thick mid-palate with surprising brightness peeking in at the end. Now, I've had better eisweins, and I've had thicker ones, but at the price point, this is about the best I've had in a long, long while. Elegant, but thick at the same time, delectably sweet but balanced, too.  I would tend to drink this on the young side. 95 points. 

1986 Sauternes (Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey)
Always one of my favorite Lafauries, this is  showing beautifully. Bright and sunny, cheerful and graceful, it is racy enough to make your mouth water, but sweet enough to be in balance. It shows a touch of vanilla fragrance, from oak no doubt, and still beautiful concentration. Very sexy and charming, too. 94 points.

1995 Monbazillac "Cuvée Madame"(Chateau Tirecul)
This special cuvée is a marvel. You expect TBAs to be this thick, but not Sauternes (and certainly NOT Monbazillac). Unctuous is the only correct word for its mid-palate concentration. I found it interesting, too, tangy and spicy, tinged with apricot nuances with that little burst of acid on the end. Lively, rich, opulent--and spectacular in its viscosity. 98 points.

1988 Huxelrebe Beerenauslese "Westhofener Rotenstein" (Wittmann)
Huxelrebe is Huxelrebe, but Wittmann is Wittmann, he being one of the key makers of another hybrid, abalonga. The two seem to achieve something different than normal. This Huxelrebe amazingly elegant, with none of the somewhat odd notes the varietal can produce. It not terribly sweet at this point, and perhaps no longer qualifies as dessert wine, but it is certainly the most graceful Huxelrebe I've ever had. Bright and elegant, charming and easy, with nuances of peach, this hits all the right notes. 90 points.

1990 Sauternes (Chateau Yquem)
After several notes on this over the years, I can say one thing with certainty: this wine simply needs to be cellared for about 10 years, and maybe, maybe then we'll see if it lives up to its hype. Ten years may in fact not be enough. This continues to be very tight, brooding, and restrained. Not that it is unpleasant. But you sense so many things going on underneath. The wine never quite seems to open up, seems a bit too dry, a bit too stern. Wines like this can benefit enormously from some age and oxidation. This may in fact be a wine that comes closest to hitting peak around 2015. Then, I may be able to finally get a clue as to exactly how good this is. At the moment, most would say it is rather underwhelming, and closed. Judgment reserved. 90+ points.

1998 Riesling Late Harvest (Chateau des Charmes)
Although theoretically dessert wine, this Canadian wine from the Niagara area is more like a restrained German spatlese. Laced with nuances of melon and pear, it is just off dry, but very refreshing. There is actually some piercing acidity, if not a lot of depth, and it is fairly cheery and friendly. There is little profound about this wine, but it's fun to drink and has some charm, no pun intended. 85 points.

2000 Pinot Gris "Altenbourg" Selection des Grains Nobles (Domaine Weinbach)

This is so thick, so rich, so opulent, that it is hard to find much  character in it at the moment. That will come with cellaring and maturation. At the moment, this is simply a remarkably fat SGN, with a gorgeous finish, and maybe just a touch of metal underneath on the finish. Where this goes is anyone's guess, but my guess is that it will round into stunning  SGN. 94-96 points.

2000 Port (Niepoort)

Muscle, power, depth, and balance--what's not to like? I liked it a lot. The fruit is simply gorgeous and ripe, sweet and succulent. But the structure is impressive, too. The tannins on the finish display ripeness and suppleness.  You have it all--finesse, depth and structure. 93-94 points.

2000 Port "Quinta do Passaduoro (Niepoort)
Soft and sexy, this sensual port is drinking well now. As a single quinta, it lacks the power and structure of the "true vintage" above, but has seductive, fragrant fruit. I love the texture and flavor. As long as you don't treat this like the muscular big boy, it will be a very satisfying porto. 88-89 points.

1990 Vin Santo Occhio di Pernice (Avignonesi)
This wine has a certain legendary feel to it. It is certainly about as great a Vin Santo as I have ever had. Thick, opulent, and sweet, it is nonetheless curiously compact. Everything seems focused--as if the fruit were delivered in a tunnel. This precision magnifies the impact of the wine. It captures your attention and assaults your senses. Delicious, gorgeous and complex. 98 points.

NV Port "Ten Year Tawny" (Churchill)
A lot of ten year tawnies are a bit dry, and not very rich--to the point where I often prefer the Australian counterparts. Not so here! This relatively opulent, very sweet Tawny is sexy and delectable, while still well balanced.  Every drop I had made me want just a little more. Flavorful and sunny, this was extremely pleasing. though not terribly profound or intense. This is one vote for hedonism.  90 points.

1996 Port "Late Bottled Vintage" (Quinta do Crasto)
This utterly charming LBV is unfiltered, and delicious. It is unusually sweet, but not grotesquely so, and it also has some sunny brightness that makes it lively on the palate. The flavor though is what the price of admission is all about here--just unrelentingly tastly, dripping with fruit flavor. This is easy, not terribly intense or structured, but for a LBV, that balance is about right. Very appealing, a crowd pleaser for sure, if a touch simple.  Remember though, it is a LBV. The price will be around $16 or so, not $60. 91 points.

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Germany (except dessert/sparkling)
1992 Riesling Auslese "Koberner Uhlen" (Von Schleinitz)
Piercing acidity,  restrained fruit and sweetness create a very focused wine here. It seems tight and intense, despite being over a decade old, but there is just enough sugar to restrain the acidity, to make this a pleasant, mouthwatering experience, rather than a harsh, shrill wine. Still, I have to wonder about this wine's future and balance. Realistically speaking, this shows more like a Spatlese than an Auslese, and the acidity seems to overpower the fruit.  For the moment, I enjoyed it a lot, but for those who insist on balance and fresh fruit as a wine ages, I'm not sure that holding this a long time will prove truly rewarding. 89 points.

2001 Riesling Spatlese "Scharzhofberger" (Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt)
Too young. The wine today has a lemony simplicity that makes it better to hold than drink. It is quite approachable in a sense---nothing too objectionable, and the gentle, charming sweetness comes out and washes over your palate as the wine warms. But it seems....simple. I think some cellaring here will add some complexity and interest. At the moment, the wine is a bit too one-dimensional. 87 points.

1999 Riesling Spatlese "Urziger Wurzgarten" (J.J. Christoffel)
Well, well. On release, this was flabby and unctuous, but lacked acidic structure--or so it seemed. Just goes to show you what a little cellar time will do with a great producer's wines. How could I have thought this had little acidity? The miracle of how wines develop and close is on display here. Today, the acidity is simply intense. It makes your mouth water immediately, and a lot, and is completely mouthgripping. Yet, the wine is wonderfully balanced, at least at the moment. Maybe the review here will read like that of the Von Schleinitz above, in ten years. At the moment, the fruit is lush and the sweetness battles back against the acidity. It was a wine I kept going back to, over and again.  A very fine performance in a tough vintage. 92 points.

1971 Riesling Auslese ** "Urziger Wurzgarten"(J.J. Christoffel)
Purchased by the person who brought it at auction, and recently released from the estate's cellars, this was simply stunning. Fresh and pristine, it was hard to believe this was older than ten years at first. The acidity was still mouthgripping, but nicely nuanced by gentle sweetness. Only with air did the wine display any tertiary nuances, that burnished, rounder texture that maturing riesling gets. It evolved yet again with air, regaining power, and showing spice and racy acidity. The fruit did thin and the finish shorten just a bit at that point, but the wine was still lovely. Complex, powerful and pristine.  95 points.

2001 Riesling QbA "Rudesheimer Drachenstein" (Leitz) QPR Winner  
This remarkable QbA is more like a spatlese, and was under $10. It has already gone through some stages that lots of 2001s have gone through. At first it was up front and fully open. Then, it was totally shut and disjointed. This time, I got to taste it after it was open for two days just recorked in the fridge. It was wine again, with that aeration. Remarkably powerful for a QbA, and completely mouthgripping, it seemed almost tannic at first, despite having been open for two days. It came together beautifully and eventually, showing traces of lemon mingled with traces of sugar. In finish, and intensity, a super performance for a wine of this status. It should keep for a decade, too.  90 points.

2001 Rieslaner Auslese "Durkheimer Nonnengarten" (Darting) QPR Winner
I was told this was legally a beerenauslese---but you didn't have to be told that to know. It was extremely sweet, and in fact the nose gave aromas of pure sugar. I loved the apricot nuances, and syrupy notes, but I was a little surprised at how quickly the wine thinned out. Of course, if you really wanted an Auslese, that might be a good thing. Still, even if it turns out to be a bit simple and one dimensional (and keep in mind it is VERY young, and cellaring has a way of adding complexity), at $20 this has to be a big steal, a hedonistic, full throttle wine that will be a big crowd pleaser.  If it improves with cellaring, and I think it will, I might be inclined to bump this score up a bit. 90 points.

1997 Riesling  Kabinett "Forster" (Burklin-Wolf)
Light, fading a bit, and fairly bright, this Kab has seen better days. It has thinned too much, and seems uninspiring and undistinguished. Hollow in the middle, and a bit short. Drink up if you got 'em. 82 points.

1988 Riesling Auslese "Mehringer Goldkupp" A.P. 3561 024 27 89 (Friedrich-Wilhem-Gymnasium)
This subtle but lovely wine just grew on me. It opened a bit funky, with some petrol stink, a burnt rubber sort of nose. With air, this mostly blew off and then I could concentrate on the wine. Very thick for a 13 year old, the sweetness has moderated but not disappeared, and the balance is superb. This is a super time to consume this. The acidity is perfectly measured, brightening the wine on the tongue, making it feel refreshing, but not dominating or standing out in any way. Speaking of the tongue...this wine grips it, coats your mouth, and provides a long, lingering finish tinged with nuances of slate and minerals that become sweet at the last moment. It seems thick, as I said, but only when you think about its depth. It otherwise effortlessly delivers the fruit. Sensual, delicious. 94 points.

2001 Riesling Auslese "Mulheimer Sonnenlay" (M.F. Richter)
Pleasing, delectable and approachable at this point, the wine shows gentle, rather sweet on the finish, and charming. Like so many Mosel rieslings, the color is amazing in that there is none. You pour it--and it could be a glass of tap water. Until you smell it that is. The nose is full of sugar, and promises sweet things to come.  There's not much intensity on display on Day 1, though, and the acid is overwhelmed by the concentration of fruit and sugar. This is a crowd pleaser sort of Auslese, but it seemed to me to stop a bit short of distinguished, barring further improvement. Of course, it is true that a lot of 2001s show baby fat and hide their structure. That may be true here, too, but I don't see this as an enormous winner.  I wasn't as thrilled with  this the second day either, and there seemed to be some hints of volatility.  88 points.

2002 Riesling "Dragonstone" (Leitz)   QPR Winner
Just $10. Another great German value, and another fine wine from Leitz. On opening, there is a big hit of sugar and acid, signs of component parts that mean it is very young. Yet the depth of fruit and flavor here is remarkable at this price level, and the wine becomes approachable with air. Delicious and intense both, it is a $10 wine with structure and power and flavor and ...welcome to German riesling! Approachable on the young side, I suspect this will hold rather well, too, for 7-10 years.  I keep looking for some reason to mark this down, but I can't find one. P.s.: This is the usual Leitz QbA bargain---the Rudesheimer Drachenstein bottling--they've renamed it to appeal to the Anglo market! 90 points.

1990 Riesling Auslese "Kreuznacher Narrenkappe" (Anheuser)
Still intense, this shows some signs of maturing fruit, that burnished note that older riesling attains, but no more. It is remarkably fresh for its age. The sugar blowing off is one of the few signs of age. It remains focused, shows elegantly, and brightly. The wine is perfect to drink now in my view--it is in harmony, and with air becomes seductive and gentle. Very nice. 90 points.

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Italy (except dessert/sparkling)
1997 Solaia IGT (Antinori)
Despite decanting, this was astringent on the finish, and stayed that way. The roasted cherry notes had some appeal, but the wine showed disjointed throughout its stay in my glass, mingling bright acidic notes with tannins, and never seeming to show enough lushness or flavor, tending to the weedy end of the scale, and adding a bit too much muscle. One could argue that this needed more decanting, but I was a bit disturbed by its austerity. Maybe the future will tell better tales, and it will earn something on the plus side of this score, but it isn't showing much now, tight and hard, closed and forbidding. 90+ points.

1998 Barolo "Bric del Fiasc" (P. Scavino)
This is my first taste of this wine since a big trade tasting, and while it seems to be closing just a bit, it is still gorgeous. At that tasting, it was arguably the star of an event filled with stunning Marc de Grazia wines. Here, it is awfully good too. This is definitely new wave Barolo---ripe, lush, and mouthfilling. The fruit coats your palate and the finish stays and lingers.  I liked the ripe tannins on the back end for intensity, and the plum and chocolate nuances on the mid-palate. Some people, me included, might think Nebbiolo could never show like this. 95 points.

2000 Vitiano (Falesco) QPR Winner 
This well known good value wine usually exceeds its price point--and so, too, here. I have heard some folks claim bottle variations. I don't know how many they've tasted. I have had three, and they've all been fine, which is all I can say from first hand knowledge. This,  coming in as low as $8,  was simply delectable.  Bursting with flavor, showing notes of chambord and raspberry nuances, the wine was ripe, sweet and delicious. It also had a lively aspect to it, that prevented it from becoming either Kool-Aid or maple syrup. Medium to medium-light in body, it seem well balanced, and never stopped emitting flavor. In this price range, this is about as much as you can want.  It is showing even better now than in my first review, and the cellaring sure helped it. 89 points.

1998 Geremia (Rocca di Montegrossi)
Delicious! This Super Tuscan brings it home. It is a bit closed at the moment and unduly restrained, but the cherry fruit lurks underneath, and as it pops up, it is delectable. The texture is velvety, and the fruit coats your mouth and takes over. In a year or two, I think this should drink beautifully. As Super Tuscans go, it is relatively cheap, too, about $30 a bottle, depending on case discounts, etc. 90-92 points.

1999 Barbaresco "Bric Balin" (Moccagatta)
This great estate has produced another winner. This has a sort of merlot feel to it, a touch of chocolate, a creamy, velvety texture, perhaps aided by the barrique aging. It is suprisingly elegant for young Barbaresco, but still robust and opulent, and simply delectable. I'm not sure this has the structure to be the longest aging or best Bric Balin, but it is an extremely appealing, seductive wine nonetheless.   90-92 points.

1998 Barolo "Vigna Rocche" (Corino)
Full bodied, but supple, this shows ripe, tingly tannins, and needs air, but seems surprisingly approachable.  I would have liked a bit more depth to this, a little more intensity, but it is friendly and charming, if a little too easy.  This is extremely pleasing, but it would not be my first pick for profound, cellar worthy Barolo. 89 points.

1998 Brunello di Montalcino (Livio Sassetti Pertimali)
Beautiful, sexy, seductive. This wine manages to project intensity, while remaining soft, supple and approachable. It is persistent in delivering cherry-nuanced fruit, and has a nice, lingering, flavorful finish. A touch of tannin shows up on the finish, too, which is welcome, and a good sign for cellaring purposes. Elegant, new wave Brunello. 90-92 points.

2001 Dolcetto d'Alba "Cottá" (Sottimano) QPR Winner

This is simply stunning Dolcetto. It opens grapey, and exuberant---almost a Beaujolais. It has often (and wrongly) been called Italy's Beaujolais, of course. Yet, any likelihood that this is a simple, unstructured, grapey wine is soon dispelled. It has power, even, seemingly, some tannin. It is actually better the next day. And it is only $13. Amazing. Remembering that my scores are relative for various regions, i.e., Dolcetto is ranked as Dolcetto, not compared to Barolo,  this  merits a very high score.  94 points.

1999 Chianti Classico Riserva "Vigneto S. Marcellino" (Rocca di Montegrossi)

I tasted early versions of this at the winery, and it meets my early expectations. Big, structured and rather tannic, this wine shows richness underneath, but pure power at the moment. I think it is actually closing a bit, and will probably need three years of cellaring to show its best. Intense and muscular, this is Chianti that takes no prisoners. 89-91 points.

2000 Barbera d'Alba "Ciabot du Re" (Revello)
Hearty and velvety, this wine projects warmth and a homey sort of feel. You can see lighting up the fireplace and having a nice glass. This new wave wine sports a sexy, lush texture, and plummy flavors. Very appealing. 90-92 points.

2000 Barbera d'Alba "Vigneto della Chiesa" (Seghesio)
Another new wave Barbera. Bring on the new wave, I say. This doesn't have as much flavor or velvet as the Revello, above, but it has plenty of both. For traditionalists, there is  a little burst of acid on the finish of this well made mine. Nice weight and presentation.  88-90 points.

1999 Barbaresco "Cottà" (Sottimano)
Incredibly intense....this wine is big and powerful, very tannic, and mouthgripping. Just having had a new Dolcetto from this estate, which had as much tannin as any Dolcetto I've experienced, maybe this isn't surprising. The wine is mouthgripping and fierce, but somewhere under there, you do sense some fruit. The balance is a little questionable though. I'd like to see how this resolves with desperately needed cellaring, and I probably wouldn't look at it again until 2008.  Judgment reserved, because I needed to spend more time with this and lacked the opportunity at a big tasting, but it's looking mostly like 88-90 points. 

1999 Sant'Antimo Excelsus (Banfi)
Decanted, this showed ripe, opulent and soft. I was surprised at how easy and forward it was. Though I was a little underwhelmed by its lack of intensity, perhaps due to the decanting, it was certainly a sexy, seductive wine whose texture had a sensual aspect that was hard to dislike. If you can deal with the price, it's pretty nice wine. 89-91 points.

1999 Ornellaia (Tenuta dell'Ornellaia)
Simply stunning. This gorgeous wine has it all. It is very concentrated, and noticeably deep and thick. It is powerful, but the tannins are relatively ripe. The fruit emits gorgeous red berry flavors. The finish is persistent. I loved the multi-layered feel of this wine, and its beautiful fruit. Another big winner. 94-96 points.

1999 Masseto (Tenuta dell'Ornellaia)

This is ultra pricey wine is thick, but doesn't quite strike me as a fruit bomb. Actually, its structure is more on display at the moment. A bit dusty, due to tannins, it is powerful but lively, and sports a gorgeous, lingering finish that simply captures your tongue. Its components are a bit disjointed at the moment, helping demonstrate that this needs a few years of cellaring, at the least, but this looks to be a super wine. 90-92 points.

2000 Saffredi (Fattoria Le Pupille)

Grapey, but also stern and structured, this wine features great fruit, and plenty of muscle. Let this sit for a couple of years to settle down, and see how it drinks around 2005, when the pieces should pull together and the wine appear more harmonious. 88-90 points.

2000 Monferrato Rosso Rivalta (Villa Sparina)
In a funny, squat bottle, this wine could be taken for a joke. But it's not intended as cheapo stuff at all. First clue is the price, in the upper 40s.  But more importantly, just taste the wine. This mixture of Barbera (mostly) with a dollop of merlot, is lively, full and spicey. It is simply delicious, too. The Barbera provides some brightness, the merlot some lushness and richness. Ignore the funny, squat bottle! 90-92 points.

2000 Lagrein "Scuro Taberhof Riserva" (Cantina Produttori Santa Maddalena)
This obscure grape from the Alto Adige region surprised me with how good it was. Look fast, look hard--there are only 348 cases brought in. It reminds me a bit of fine Valpolicella, showing relatively big for its generally "on the lighter side" style. I loved its balance, and the 10% of cab franc gave it a little oomph. Cherry nuanced, it is focused, flavorful and elegant, with a nice finish and good balance. Very pleasing, in a lighter styled wine. I.e., think Chinon not Cheval Blanc. 88-90 points.

2000 d'Alceo (Castello dei Rampolla)
Opulent and rich, this beauty shows smoothness as well as power. The grapey fruit is flavorful, showing plums and cherry, and the mid-palate holds firm across the board. I really liked the finish, too. 90-92 points.

1997 Amarone della Valpolicella "Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta) (Romano dal Forno)
I'd never had dal Forno before, and it is of course, a legendary wine. This often sells for a pretty penny, too. Do a quick search on Wine Searcher!  I liked it a lot, but the angels did not sing, I heard no melodies in the background and I can think of other Amarones a lot cheaper that I liked as well, like Allegrini. Still, ignoring hype, this is real nice wine. There is a fleshy, velvety mouthfeel, and the ripe, soft tannins give off a tingle in the mouth rather than an astringent feel. It's plenty ripe enough, and there is finally just a touch of astringency on the finish. Good depth, flavor. No angels. 90-92 points.

1998 Barolo "Cerretta" (E. Germano)

Precise and intense, this lingers beautifully at the end. This very focused wine does not lack for texture or flavor, despite its intensity, though. In particular, despite the tannins underneath, there is a touch of a chocolatey note that made the wine flavorful and tasty.  This will likely drink best around 2008, but it should be lovely and seductive.  91-93 points.

1998 Barolo "Bussia" (Prunotto)
Classic Barolo in so many respects.....big and powerful, this claims to be a very traditional wine. In the sense of structure and tannin it sure is, but there is plenty of ripe fruit here, and even with the power, this seems like a wine that will come into balance with a decade of cellaring, perhaps peaking around 2010-2012.  Very well done, and if it cellars as well as I think it will, it could be flat out stunning.  92-95 points.

1998 Barolo "La Serra" (G. Voerzio)
Surprisingly supple and opulent, this is sort of a 180 degree turn from the Prunotto, above. Yet, they are both super wines, proving once again that there is no "one right way" to get the job done. I loved the richness, the milk chocolate texture on this wine. The finish is stunning, long and flavorful, and the deep, ripe fruit are well supported with tannins that slowly emerge. There is plenty of fruit here, plenty of structure, and despite a certain "new wave" feel, this wine has the backbone to age. All the pieces are in place. These wines are, of course, famously expensive, exceeding triple digit pricing. Whether that's worth the price of admission for you, is up to you. But it's sexy and delicious. 92-94 points.

2000 Oreno (Tenuta Sette Ponti)
This is a great Super Tuscan, probably selling for about $80 or so a bottle. It's 50% sangiovese, 25% cabernet, and 25% merlot. To me, the fruit flavor seemed cab dominated, and I might have identified it as a cab or left bank Bordeaux in some respects. Despite some astringency on the finish, it is luscious and flavorful, delivering delectable fruit surrounded by stern structure. Very impressive. 92-95 points.

1998 Barolo "Sorì Ginestra" (Conterno Fantino)
Like I've been saying, why bother to talk about the new wave? Most everything seems to be. The new wave is now the establishment. Here's another example. Supple and rich, this wine is not quite as deep as the best, say, the Voerzio above, but the fruit is ripe, fragrant and lovely. Very approachable for young Barolo. 89-91 points. 

1998 "Modus" (Ruffino)
This reasonably priced Super Tuscan (about $40) is big and burly. Full of briars and brambles, it shows great depth, and fruit pops up eventually. There is plenty of evidence that with some air or a couple of more years of cellaring, this will come back and show reasonable balance, and in fact with some air, the texture softens and shows some velvet. Despite the spikey, somewhat disjointed nature of this wine at the moment, I think it has a fine future. 89-91 points.

2000 Chianti Classico "Giorgio Primo" (Fattoria La Massa)

This comes is only about a 400 case production, and like so many wines on this page, it is definitely "new wave" in style. In fact, maybe it's time to stop talking about the new wave--the one time revolutionaries in Italy are now in charge. I was told there was actually about 10% merlot added into this. It's certainly atypical, even for the new wave. It's simply delicious, though. I loved the cherry fruit, the richness, depth and lushness. It will definitely piss off traditionalists. Those looking for a delicious bottle to drink without getting too hung up, however, will love this. It certainly has many fans, and garnered a Tre Bicchieri award, too. It will be hard to find. Martin Scott importers bring this into the New Jersey area. 91-93 points.

1999 Barbaresco "Vigneto Gallina" (La Spinetta)

A new wave stunner, with plenty of old wave background.....Rich, opulent, and chocolately, it is hard to believe Nebbiolo can be so rich and ripe. As luscious as this is, as deep, as multi-layered, it is also burly, powerful, intense and structured. It is bright and persistent on the finish, and what a gorgeous finish it is, nutty and long. The tannins that pop out after an hour and a half are more than a match for the thick, seductive, sweet fruit. Remember, it took an hour and a half for them to appear. If you drink this in 2003, I think it calls for 3-5 hours of decanting. This wine is about $85, and to me is worth every penny. It probably needs at least a decade more of cellaring to show its best, or 2013. 96+ points.

1996 Barolo "Brunate" (R. Voerzio)

This opens brooding, intense and tight. The finish is metallic, tannins are everywhere, and rather drying. That was after an hour and a half of double decanting. It probably needed three. With aeration in the glass over an evening, it finally came around. A bit. The metallic notes vanished, and you could actually taste some sweet fruit. This wine is both deep and intense, and needs long, long cellaring to hit peak. I'd try this again around 2011, at age 15.  Peak might be closer to 2016.  94+ points. 

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New Zealand (except dessert/sparkling)

1999 Pinot Noir (Two Paddocks)
At about $300 a case, this starts to become a bit pricey for what it is. I liked it, though. It was bright and flavorful. In fact, the fruit became a bit candied on the finish, not really a good thing in pinot. Yet, the wine also had a touch of earthiness that gave it some complexity and helped save it from a Kool-Aid like profile. Its brightness gave it some elegance and racy notes. I'd be interested to see if the fruit balances out a bit, because if it does, this could be better than I now think. 86-88 points.

2001 Pinot Noir (Seresin Estate)

With every passing year, New Zealand churns out more and more pinot noir that tastes like pinot noir and is fun to drink. There aren't many high quality pinot areas in the world, but one suspects NZ will be staking a claim soon. Of course, production quantities are small--such is life with pinot noir. This reasonably priced wine, about $240 a case, provides a lot of bang for the buck. Bright, with literally mouth watering acidity, it still manages to deliver lots of flavor in red berry notes. The medium body and fruit concentration levels are sufficient to balance out the wine at the moment, and although I am no fan of high acid reds, this somehow works. I do have some concern as to its balance as it ages, though. 86-88 points.

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Rhone/South/SW France  (except dessert/sparkling)

1997 Cornas "Vielles Vignes" (Voge)

Whew. This powerful wine attacks fast and hard, showing mouthgripping tannins. As it aired out, the fruit displayed some lushness, and fought back, and I enjoyed the gamey nuances that popped up. That was the good news. I do think this wine is a bit unbalanced in terms of tannins, and it finished a bit sour as it continued to air, perhaps showing some volatile acidity.  Still, in this vintage, this could be had a good price if you shopped carefully. A great Cornas it is not. 87 points.

2001 Bandol Rouge (Pibarnon)
Rich, deep fruit shows beautifully here.  The youthful fruit is somewhat grapey, clean and pure, and sporting supple tannins. The wine has a certain elegance to go with its opulence, and it seems beautifully structured and balanced, with a nice finish. I expect this to develop well with cellaring, and show near its best around 2008.  90-92 points.

2000 Montpeyroux "Cote Dorée" (Domaine L'Aigulière)
This and the next wine represent the special cuvées of this top Languedoc winery. This version shows a lot of Domaine's typical funk, gamey, redolent of bacon fat. Underneath, the wine is supple and elegant, with lots of velvety texture as it slides across your mouth. This doesn't seem to have as much power as some, but it's an awfully fine wine if you can deal with or like that bacon fat aroma and taste. 89-91 points.

2000 Montpeyroux "Cote Rousse" (Domaine L'Aigulière)

The difference between this and the cuvée above, I'm told, is simply that they are raised in different types of barrels. This Rousse is a less open. Tightly wound, it shows little funk, or at least not as overt, and more tannin. This is somewhat sterner and more brooding than the Dorée, though the Dorée is far more attractive now,  and this will require a little extra cellaring to open.  I suspect that the wines will converge, but this will just be a bit more backward. 90-92 points.

1996 Cotes du Rhone "Coudoulet" (Beaucastel) QPR Winner

This wasn't the best vintage in the world, and this wine got so-so reviews. To me, however, it is very fine Cotes du Rhone. If it is a little compact, nonetheless, it is a "little Beaucastel."  It could easily be identified as Chateauneuf, from its velvety texture, to its strawberry-tinged, slightly gamey fruit. It is elegant, and drinking beautifully, flavorful and delicious. It lacks a little intensity, but hey, this is 7 year old Cotes du Rhone! 89 points.

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Spain (except dessert/sparkling) QPR Winner 
2000 Garnacha "Tres Picos" (Borsao)
When I first had this, on release, I thought it was a great QPR wine. Well! This is even better now. The first impressions are still sweet, rich strawberry nuanced grenache. But it is a pleasure to watch ripe tannins pop out, and the wine is actually better on day 2 (kept in the fridge) than on opening. It is drinking nicely now, but should hold nicely too for a couple of years more. Around $10. 89 points.

1999 Finca Sobreno QPR Winner 
Another great QPR wine from Spain...This is also fruit forward, but lively and delicious, too, just like the Garnacha. However, there is one thing here to give you pause....the new oak level is high, and fairly intrusive, along the lines of American oak. The vanilla scent will be pleasing to some, and the oak is not overbearing...but more than some will like. Still, for about $11, this medium bodied wine drinks well, has a nice creamy mouthfeel, and tastes great. 88 points.

1996 Rioja Reserva (Bodegas Montecillo)

Pleasant, but rather simple Rioja, with restrained oak, and nice, pleasing cherry notes. The wine is light on its feet, and the finish a bit short, but it drinks easy and well, and has a certain liveliness I appreciated. Undistinguished, but correct. Or so I thought. This never quite gets to special, but I was pleased to note that significant aeration greatly improved it. The next day (after refrigeration) it seemed livelier, more robust and tastier. Not great, but pretty nice.  88 points.

1998 Alion (Vega Sicilia)

This is a lovely wine in many respects, supple, bright and fruity. It also has an earthy component, that adds some distinction. What I didn't see was much that was terribly impressive, that would justify the fairly high price, probably over $50 per bottle in most places. If you can ignore the price, though, this drinks very well, has a lot of charm, and an easygoing gentleness that makes it very appealing. 88 points.

1997 Valbuena (Vega Sicilia)
This has a certain Rhone-y feel, but it is very intense, and rather brighter. The acidity is in fact mouthwatering, and the wine is tightly wound. Behind the structure is very pleasing red, strawberry nuanced fruit, but it is sometimes a bit hard to find. This has some earmarks of a wine that might show a lot better with a few years of cellaring, but I have to question whether it will ever be in perfect balance. 89+ points.

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